Crankshaft Position Sensor DIY - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

DUTCH · #31 07-29-2006, 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

Bill is going to need to edit the DIY.

You folks are coming up with some great data.

R&R of the Crankshaft Position Sensor
on the 2000 ML320 (M112 & M113)
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/M112M113CPS

I just added some comments at the end of this Wikka how to article regarding some things that I found to make this job pretty easy.

99clk320 · #32 07-29-2006, 12:05 PM

Thanks for always responding so fast YuCrew. Unfortunately, there's nothing else in this position that has a wire or remotely looks like the CPS other than the object I photographed.

The only thing I have left to do now is to use my car jack and try to get under the car to get a better look. This or if anyone else is in the NYC area, i'd gladly pay them to do the swap out as the hours of the shops near me conflict with my work schedule...

Perhaps the part does look different on an ML than it does on a CLK....?

sdanville · #33 07-29-2006, 12:20 PM

I recall this....and i replaced mine 2 times because I was sent the wrong one the 1st time.

I had to do it by feel ...as i couldnt get my eye on it and my arm in the right place at the same time.

I could do it again in 3 minutes now that ive done it.

Im in MI however.

99 ML320.

Eclassy · #34 02-12-2008, 03:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sdanville

Did this Cure your no start at times / stalling ?

Thanks

ANOTHER couple notes:

A 3/8" Drive E8 socket will not have enough clearance.
I went to 3 auto stores and 2 Hardware stores no luck.
My New CPS arrived today - and I got lucky at NAPA and bought a 1/4" drive E8 socket for $3.
Then it snowballs.... I trusted the Parts guy online to send me the correct sensor using my VIN Number. At 1st glance it looked great until iI installed it.
The elect connector was wrong. My 1999 ML320 has a 0 261 210 141
aparently their book read 0 261 210 171.
I will update later weather or not they will take the sensor back.
My parts guy said he'd take the sensor back. Note electric connection guides in Picture. Mine is 180 degrees from bolt , replacement was 90 degrees.

--wont let me duplicate my picture can be found searching " more crankshaft position sensor questions "

how did you fix oil consumption problem?

TheRose · #35 04-08-2008, 04:03 AM

Hi Dickie!

Thank you to all who are here to help. I truly appreciate you!! Need help with my non-working vehicle.

I own a 1998 Mercedes ML 320. I believe the MB stearlership lacks integrity and try to take advantage of me especially because I am a single female. Anyway, when I noticed the "check engine light" on, I took it to the stealership to assess the problem. They charged me $500.00 just to have it hooked up to their "computer" for diagnostics but could not give me a definite answer. The best they could do was to say that I had a potential safety issue and wanted to charge me more to assess the possible problems.

I wasn't about to give my very hard earned dollars to someone who couldn't give me a straight answer or at least a half decent one. A few days later, my window switch quit working. I bought a new switch and changed it myself (after some trial and error), because I refused to allow the dealer to charge me an arm and a leg.

Then my A/C went out. MB wanted to charge me an arm and a leg. I spoke to a very credible mechanic. He told me to first check the fuse. I discovered that it was indeed a burnt out fuse. Later, my other window switch quit working and found that the fuse burnt out so I changed it myself.

A few weeks later while driving, my car just stalled or died. It wouldn't start up right away. After about 30 mins. the car started up and I barely made it home. I bought a new battery. The car started right up, but then died out after about 2 seconds. After getting information from this site, I thought perhaps I needed to change the crankshaft position sensor. I purchased one from the dealer ($141.00) and had a mechanic change it for me. Unfortunately, that didn't fix the problem. I thought perhaps it was a faulty key, so I used my other key, but no change. It starts up nicely, but dies after 2 seconds.

Can any of you awesome people out there tell me what else I should try? I read about others who had similar problems and it was suggested that it could either be a problem with the MAF or camshaft. One person changed the MAF and it fixed the problem. The MAF on my SUV looks really good and thought perhaps I should buy the MAF cleaner and try that first. Any other suggestions before I proceed?

Thank you!

JAD · #36 04-13-2008, 04:20 PM

Wish I had this thread about 3 weeks ago. I had to have this done and padi for it. Oh well...great link!

Pancho · #37 01-03-2009, 04:58 PM

Thanks for the good detailed instructions, and the diagram.
I've looked for help with this job on a number of forums,
and it's difficult to find one written by a gearhead that really
understands the job. Most are: take it out, put it in, close the hood, duh.
You good work is much appreciated.
Again, thanks.

cudaspaz · #38 01-03-2009, 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dickiegoodman

Since no one volunteered their expert advice on the crankshaft position sensor (CPS) DIY, here it is...hopefully this will help others with what appears to be a common stalling issue in the ML series.

I checked NetStar for PO work (done under warranty) and learned the fuel system mod had been done at 29k (now have 48k). So I figured the stalling issue wasn't that. I may be wrong, the CPS was cheaper place to start!

I give this job a 1 to 1.5 stars (of 5) difficulty, and maybe a 3 stars for patience.

Here it is:

1) Get CPS at dealer, its a VIN specific part. $125 from my local stealer.

2) Tools needed: Socket screwdriver, Good lighting (portable) shop lights, size 8 outside torx socket, maybe a ratchet and extentions depending on your flexibility, magnetic part retrieval tool (skip this at your peril), bath towel, and long sleeve shirt, step stool, blue thread locker (optional)

3) Open hood and remove engine cover, it just pulls off and on

4) Set work light(s) toward back of engine, lighting behind drivers cylinder head

5) Set bath towel on front of ML to kneel on of your knees will die, wearing long sleeve shirt or your wrists will be cut.

6) Climb up on towel and look behind engine from above and right (see .jpg), finding torx attachment holding your CPS.

7) Remove torx screw and pull out CPS, disconnect one way connector (wiring)

8) Replace with new (leaving wire detached for now)

9) This is the hardest step by far, and requires patience and flexibility. Apply some thread locker and insert screw and start the threads. Tighten with torx on socket screwdriver. This step took about 1/2 hour and numerous dropped screws and retrievals with mag tool.

10) Attach wiring to CPS

11) Reinstall engine cover

12) Clean up tools, towel and lights and everything

13) Drink beer and toast yourself for saving yourself at least $100 and a day of your time dropping off and picking up cars at shop

Hope this helps someone in the community.

Dickie
00 ML 320
97 328i
87 325is

This job is a whole different ball game when the catalyst is red hot and the car is broken down on the side of the road especially on the 430's and 500's.
The 320's are not too bad, but still painful when hot.
I have a perpetual hardened scar on my wrist from doing so many of these. LOL.

twoputz · #39 04-06-2009, 05:09 PM

I just want to thank you for sharing your experience with me. It made changing the CPS a walk in the park. Otherwise, I would have had to bite the bullet and send the car to the shop. With the money saved, I can now buy the fuel filter and replace that as well.

sdanville · #40 04-06-2009, 06:26 PM

I just now see I had 2 questions I didnt answer.
Yes, The CPS totally cured my stalling problems.
If I recall the CPS was $77 online.

2) How did I cure my oil consumption problem that I inherited with my truck?
Changed from regular gas to the required premium, cleaned the EGR Tube ( plugged ) and changed my oil a couple times to clean out my poluted motor oil. The oil was contaminated and EGR plugged because the computer retarded the timing because the origional owner was ignorant and used 87 octane.

gschira · #41 04-06-2009, 08:48 PM

Hey y'all,
Dang good thread here. I enjoyed reading every bit of it even though my main ride is a1988 300 SE. Do these older cars such as mine have a CPS? Thanx in advance for your answer.

gschira · #42 04-12-2009, 05:57 PM

Well,-----Can no one answer the question?

whunter · #43 04-13-2009, 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gschira

Hey y'all,
Dang good thread here. I enjoyed reading every bit of it even though my main ride is a1988 300 SE. Do these older cars such as mine have a CPS? Thanx in advance for your answer.

Reference Sensor, Located at front crank pulley.
MB# 0021534628

Reference Sensor, Location: Rear of engine at flywheel.
MB# 0021539128

Renoir · #44 04-16-2009, 05:07 AM

Hi, I read this post through and got a feeling that it was my turn to change the damn thing. Ive got a W210 with M112 3.2 engine. MAF was changed a while ago. Over the last year Ive had several times I couldnt start the car after driving and returning to it shortly. The last two times were really nasty. The car was left for an hour or more and when I tried to start it, it just went on turning the starter in vain. For about half an hour and then it started as if nothing had happened. The first time it was without any fire, the next time (in 3 days) it was largely misfiring and working on 2-3 cylinders. For about half an hour, too and then it started, rather unwillingly. No problem since then. Cold start is fine. For most of the time, its fine. So, what do you think? Does it look like CPS? Also, there are 4 options according to detali.ru and elcats.ru. How am I supposed to know which one is mine? (other than removing the part to see the number)

DUTCH · #45 04-16-2009, 07:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Renoir

Also, there are 4 options according to detali.ru and elcats.ru. How am I supposed to know which one is mine? (other than removing the part to see the number)

Why not use the official MB Electronic Parts Catalog? It's free, if you're in the US. It's what the dealers' parts guys use to determine the correct part.