Torx Bit (?) for ML Brake Job - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

fema · #1 09-26-2004, 07:41 PM

I searched all the great info for replacing my brake pads - the wear indicator started to blink, of course right before a short trip - I take it they're good for the next week until I can get to them, a few hundred miles!

What is a "torx bit" that is mentioned? Are there other specific tools that would make the job easier?

Thanks much.

ML320guy · #2 09-27-2004, 08:15 AM

The Torx bit looks like a "star". You'll need a T-40 to remove the front brake caliper. Get the kind that fits on your socket wrench (usually 3/8-inch drive). You'll probably need rotors too. They cannot be re-surfaced. You need a metric allen (5mm, I think) wrench to remove these (and a hammer!).
And, a big "C" clamp to push the piston back into the caliper. There are several threads with step-by-step instructions.

fema · #3 09-30-2004, 01:59 PM

Understood, thanks. Those pads are expensive at the dealer, but I guess worth it considering their duty. The rotors look good, so unless I've missed something, I'm going to keep running them.

What about ABS, no special procedure when working on a car with this? I had read this in another general auto book, which is why I ask.

ML320guy · #4 09-30-2004, 02:19 PM

Fema, there is much debate on OEM parts. To me, you can get better brake pads after-market and save money. I swithched to Mintex which produce little dust and stop the same or better. On the rotors, you can't just assume they're good by looking at them. They "look" good far beyond the minimum thickness required. They are meant to wear just like the pads. They are not too expensive either. You might get the rotors through two sets of pads but its not recommended.
There are some additional "cautions" when working on brakes with ABS, but essentially its the same process. You could search the site for detailed brake instructions.

G-Benz · #5 09-30-2004, 02:23 PM

For pad replacement only, no special procedure is needed, ABS or not.

My first try at replacing the front pads was 30 minutes...after I purchased a T-40 torx and found a suitable C-clamp to use.

Do remove the brake reservoir cap to relieve pressure when you push on those calipers...and place a rag around the reservoir to catch potential spillage (brake fluid eats paint). If you've topped off your brake fluid level as the pads wear, putting on new pads will have the level above max, so check for this.

And I get my Pads from FastLane. Mintex this time...Pagids seem to give me problems with brake squeal...

fema · #6 09-30-2004, 02:33 PM

Ok, so with regard to the rotors, perhaps I am being hasty - and cheap! What exactly do I need to do to determine if they can be used - a measurement of thickness, scoring (which I don't see), etc..? What's the pad thickness spec too? - because maybe I don't need to do the rear yet, true? The thing has 95K miles so I imagine the pads have been changed at least once, no? I can check my records.

I certainly don't want to screw up am important item like brakes, thanks.

G-Benz · #7 09-30-2004, 02:34 PM

When your rotors look like this, you should probably consider replacing them within a year or so...

fema · #8 09-30-2004, 02:50 PM

They don't anything like that, a good thing. They are really quite shiny (sp?) and smooth looking. When i get to my records later, I'll see if they've been replaced already as well - up till now I've always had it dealer serviced for the major items, just can't recall this one.

ML320guy · #9 09-30-2004, 03:37 PM

Fema, I believe the minimum thickness is 25 mm. (It should be stamped in the metal on the rotor, somewhere). Also, the rear brakes last MUCH longer than the front ones. Simply check the pad thickness, when its almost gone, replace them (and probably the rotors too).
Check online sources for Pads & rotors. The whole set should be less than $150/axel.