I normally charge $200 for the tranny oil change, but I get my fluid for $6.50 a liter (we have 2 dealerships in town; the other charges 2X as much). I still like 50-60K intervals, and I do not care what anyone else says, but the life of your engine and transmission is controlled by your fluid, and when your fluid breaks down or is too heavily contaminated, it will not provide the protection required to maintain its service life.

Wear in an engine and transmission is caused by friction, and excessive friction is caused by compromised fluid (coupled with poor designing, such as lack of lubrication, excessive loads, etc.); keep your fluids changed on a regular basis (I tell my customers 5000-7500 miles with synthetic, 2500-3000 miles with conventional oils) -- this is the most important rule in car longevity, keep the fluids changed and topped off (well, that and put gas in it, but people figure that out pretty quickly). Do this, and I guarantee you a very long life with your engine and transmission mechanically (unless overheated, etc... you know what I mean).

I have talked to some of the best dedicated rebuilders in the country on this tranny series... they say two things: "No, we do not have any spare parts available" (this transmission tosses the torrington bearing between the sun gear and front of the output shaft, and it tears EVERYTHING up), and "Keep the fluids clean; change fluids often". Now while the transmission may have a good average when not changing the fluid, it is not that expensive to change it out when comparing cost-per-mile, and there are no consequences I am aware of to changing fluid out too frequently.

Will post about warning signs later.

__________________
Don't ask me, I'm a shop-owner by default

If you put this in writing, I'd be your best customer.

I wouldn't argue this. I don't think it "hurts" anything to change the fluid (assuming it is done properly and with approved fluid), personally on a 722.6, I feel it's a waste of money.

Gilly

__________________
Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay

Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold)

I know, I'm real big on "overkill" (I require 2 fluid changes on transmission rebuilds within 10,000 miles, and 4 oil changes on my engine rebuilds, but go figure, I AM a mechanic). I only have around 100 MB transmission and engine rebuilds under my belt personally, but I've not had any returns yet for mechanical problems either. I do warrant transmissions for up to 2 years; anything after that, if I feel it I am at fault or responsible in some way for the failure, then I usually take care of most if not all of the repairs.

On the engines, however, we have no competition within a 500 mile radius, and if the rebuild and cylinder sizing are done correctly you can get a minimum of 200K out of your engine (with proper oil changes and no overheating). The customers with warranties are required to change their oil at early intervals to cover the work done; no wear-related warranty work has been carried out in the past 5 years, although there have been problems with existing excessive wear on parts that was missed until the transmissions were put together (K2 drum circuit clearances, to be exact... I always pressure-test now).

__________________
Don't ask me, I'm a shop-owner by default

Some things you can do or watch out for:

Watch for 3, 4, 5th gear acceleration slip; it's one of the signs that your transmission control module (TCM) could be bad. This can be a result of a defective earlier design, or it could be shorting out in the transmission because of excessive wear.

If your vehicle lets out a loud "bang", it's a telltale sign you just tossed a bearing and your planetaries got tossed; it could still run at first, but will soon be painfully obvious that the tranny useful life is likely at an end (I guess what I'm saying is there is no warning when the #1 cause of 722.6 transmission failure happens; I don't know if the defective bearing set is too much slack/excessive slap, or too much stress/friction).

Missing shifts or harsh shifts are not necessarily consistant with internal transmission problems on the 722.6, and can often be fixed without removing the tranny. usually either TCM or solenoid(s), electronic VB wiring harness, or to a lesser extent the valve body itself. A proper diagnostic readout will often tell you exactly what the problem is, however, as the TCU records tranny componant fill time, pressures, temps, and cycles.

One of the best things you can do for your transmission (if you change your tranny oil) is to install a magnet in the bottom of your oil pan (when I find the # I'll post here).

Your transmission will whine loudly when the filter is plugged; this is usually a bad sign, as it indicates solids loose in the tranny to plug it (planetaries, sprags, bushings, bearings, etc.). The filter is very coarse compared to earlier MB filters, and it takes alot of solid material to plug it up.

__________________
Don't ask me, I'm a shop-owner by default

Mine did the first two until fluid was changed at 120K. MB fluid.

__________________
Lenny

There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games. --Ernest Hemingway

'10 GL550/'04 BMW 545/'99 BMW 323/'98 ML320/'87 VW GTI (race)

Hi I have 97 E 300D with 264 k miles on it. I change 3.5 q. of MB t.fluid and filter every30 k.milesI dont now haw to open converter plug so drain only half of Atf.Works fine for me...

There is a whining noise coming from my 99 ML430 with 84K miles that could be from the transmission. The noise is present always when engine is on and follows the RPMs of the engine (makes no difference with serpentine belt off). If what you say is true about clogged filter then I may be in trouble. The transnmission is working fine, however, I have been through this before and I know something is not right and it is a matter of time before major $$$$$ is required.

Will a fluid and filter change be appropriate if the noise is from the tranny.
Should a Mercedes shop do this or can a DIYer that enjoys working on cars do this?
What are the steps and what should one look out for?

Given the scenario you might want a shop experienced in 722.6 transmissions (Notice I DIDN'T say DEALER, although a dealer is an option) to see what kind of muck might be in the transmission pan and determine if the transmission is junk or not.
Gilly

__________________
Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay

Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold)

99 ML430 85K miles, 722.6

I just changed the ATF fluid, filter, and cooler lines. There was a slow leak in one of the cooler lines causing the fluid to be low. I decided to replace all ATF fluid and filter while I was replacing the cooler lines.

I could not order just one cooler line, you must order the set, got it cheaper at http://catalog.peachparts.com than from dealer (special order item). Part # 163-501-06-24

Torque converter drain plug tip: It is easier to have one view the torque converter for the drain plug while the other turns the crank slowly. A 17 mm Hex bit is needed to rotate the crankshaft pulley.

Old fluid was very dark but the bottom of pan looked rather clean. I decided that the trace amount of metal shavings was acceptable but I am no transmission expert.

I installed the magnet, part # 220-271-00-98, toward the middle of the pan near the drain plug. New filter and pan gasket installed. I purchased new pan bolts just in case, part # 003-990-02-12, quantity of 6.

I put a total 8.5 liters of ATF fluid in before I got a full reading when transmission was hot (80C). I figure the extra liter was what was in the cooler lines and radiator.

I still have whining noise, however, definitely from engine. Oh well, I can live with it.

__________________
99 ML430

The transmission in my 99 ML420 failed at 85,000 miles as I pulled up to a red light in downtown Toronto. I was 2,000 miles from home so this was an expensive event. It limped along for 6 blocks or so before there was no connection whatsoever between the engine and the wheels.

When the pan was pulled, there were large chunks of broken gears in it. Apparently this "sprag failure" is not entirely uncommon on 98 and 99 MLs.

Fluid had been changed at 45,000.

I just want to make sure I read that right. $300 to unsrew a drain plug and pour in some ATF. maybe swap a filter.

__________________
Steve Danville
what i did myself.
CPS
rear shocks
MAS x 3.
SparkPlugs (twice)
Fuel pump & Filter
Window switch
replaced both failed horns with Honda horns.
Cleaned ERG Tube
Oil changes
Oil consumption Fix
Brake Pads
A/C Recharge
Anti-Freeze change X 2.
Front Shocks. Monroe. $90
Mercedes Warrenty Work:
Harmonic balancer,power steering clamp. Cat converters.Drive Shaft Bearing.s
Replaced Outer Lower Tie Rods and front lower ball joints at 156,000 miles

I agree, but YES, that is the price that my dealer in Sacramento charges. I think someone else mentioned that they have seen prices range from $200 - $400 from various MB dealers.

Steve
Seems a little high, but remember the fluid is approx. $15/liter, times what, 7 or 8 liters. And it does take a bit of time to get the fluid level "right on the nuts". MB is critical on the level, as I'm sure you've read. Total job time you'd be hard pressed to get it done in less than an hour and do a good job at getting the level correct. Most dealers have to be pushing $100/hr labor rate, at least $75, and out west probably over $100? Anybody verify?
Gilly

__________________
Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay

Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold)

$110 per hour in Sacramento.

Here in the UK, the MB dealers charge £90 per hour labour....about $180..!!!!