As I was examining the front end for the source of added noise - I found the nut from the large bolt on the passenger side sway bar link missing! The bolt seems secure in there, so what I need is the size of nut. I'm 3 hours from the nearest dealer, so will an aftermarket bolt do - NAPA, Carquest is who we have here.

I do have the updated links - they were put on under warranty (about 55k mile agao) - this is my 98 ML320. Thanks!

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Francis E. Abate
Automotive Restoration & Preservation
Sheet metal, trim and upholstery

After replacing the missing nut with a new one from MB, I now have a "clunk" upon going over small bumps - manhole cover, driveway approaches - mainly with the wheels turned. Not noticing it as much when straight. So,

Did I not torque the bolt / nut down enough so ever so little play could cause this?

Do these bolts have a spot about an inch from the end that is NOT threaded, but smooth? This is the way my existing bolt looks.

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Francis E. Abate
Automotive Restoration & Preservation
Sheet metal, trim and upholstery

Check this link it may be helpful.
Clunk in the front?

Ron - yes, I've read this thread before posting, and have had the new style links/brackets for some time now as I mentioned. Just now after replacing the nut that was missing (vibrated off?), comes this new noise.

Perhaps a coincidence that soemthing else is wrong now, a ball joint?

I need some guidance here because I am not sure how to isolate the source of this noise - the brack "should" be OK since it's the new style and I've replaced the nut now. I read where someone oiled the ball joint - not sure where exactly those are - so any guidance on tracking this new issue down is appreciated.

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Francis E. Abate
Automotive Restoration & Preservation
Sheet metal, trim and upholstery

I'd check the ball joints like you mentioned and also make sure it's not coming from a front shock. Since you did the new links my guess and it's purely a guess is a worn ball joint. Would the noise possibly be coming form the passenger side of vehicle, sometimes the ball joints on that side go first.

It does seem to be the passenger side - is it dangerous or bad for the car to drive with a bad ball joint? I just need to figure out much time I have to diagnose it - thanks.

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Francis E. Abate
Automotive Restoration & Preservation
Sheet metal, trim and upholstery

Turns out the small ball joint on the front driver side - the one towards the back of the car from the upper and lower - is busted. What is this called? it appears it would be easier than the other ball joints to replace - thoughts?

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Francis E. Abate
Automotive Restoration & Preservation
Sheet metal, trim and upholstery

No sure what part you mean, I have a diagram of front suspension but it's to large for me to post. PM me your email address and I send it.
ron

Edited:
I think there are only two ball joints on each side of the front, the bottom, hard to get out and the top which on other MB cars was sold as a unit with what was called the upper control arm. In other words you just replaced the whole upper control arm.

Diagram can be viewed here:
http://www.msnusers.com/mkorrmm3g8rpsh6mhio79l4bn7/Documents/ml%20suspen.jpg

It turns out it is the TIE ROD END, which is a single piece including the small ball joint I mentioned that's broken open.

So now, anyone with special instructions to install this part?

Thanks Ron!

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Francis E. Abate
Automotive Restoration & Preservation
Sheet metal, trim and upholstery

Install is simple just try to have the lenght the same on the one you put in and the on you take out and take thevehicle to be aligned immediately.

To remove take of nut and hit it with an air hammer with a tie rod end separator on it. With a strong air hammer one with a decent lenght stroke each side will pop right off. Wear safely googles. I would also replace the other tie rod assembley, there are cheap and since it's being aligned it's a good time to do it too.

MB probably makes a special press to press the tie rod end out but I would not mess with that since you'll be throwing out the old assemblies anyway.

Hey Ron - first, I dont have an air hammer, but could rent one if really necessary, you think? The tie rod end separator - you mean just wedge something in there?

Second - what about the nut that's on the other side of the tie rod connected to the steering shaft - do I loosen that first before banging on the wheel end?

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Francis E. Abate
Automotive Restoration & Preservation
Sheet metal, trim and upholstery

Here are instructions for removal of inner and outer tire rod assemblies.

Attached Thumbnails

   

Thanks Ron! I'll do my best.

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Francis E. Abate
Automotive Restoration & Preservation
Sheet metal, trim and upholstery

With the new tie rod end in, there's a lot of play in the steering wheel - hoping it is not too much to drive to the shop for alignment.

More disturbing is that I still hear a clunk that I thought was the tie rod end -this is what first started last week after I replaced the nut on the passenger side sway bar link - is it possible that the nut is not torqued enough and could cause a clunk.

Any ideas appreciated!

__________________
Francis E. Abate
Automotive Restoration & Preservation
Sheet metal, trim and upholstery