I’ve done some searching but it seems that I’m the first to change the steering rack on the ML. Here is the story.

Noticed a small puddle of oil (looked just like motor oil, not red like traditional power steering fluid) in my driveway the other day. I put the car up on the jack stands searching for the leak only to find that it was my steering rack. I removed the dust boot from the driver’s side of the rack to have the fluid poor out. Great, I found the problem.

I called a local repair shop that specializes in Mercedes but they would not give me a repair quote without seeing the vehicle. They said the seals may be replaced but the need me to make an appointment to look at the car. I asked for a worst case scenario for replacing the rack but they said they would be happy to after they saw the problem.

I understand there need to protect themselves from under quoting a job but as a customer I need to have an idea of what I’ll be in for before I grab my ankles.

I called another import repair shop that my in-laws have been pleased with but they recommended me to the place I originally called.

So here is what I did.
1. Ordered a new rack (Benz Bin $657.02 with a refundable core charge of $150.00) not too bad
2. Started to remove the old rack.

This looks like a straight forward job. First removed the two hydraulic lines, no problem. Then the tie rod ends, all I did there was loosen the lock down nuts and then turn the rod on the steering rack so I didn’t even have to remove the tie rods from the spindles. Finally I need to disconnect the steering column from the rack. I loosened both the upper and lower nut and bolt on the u-joint but no luck. I then unbolted the rack to see if I could slide it off but no dice. Does anyone know the trick in removing it and once it’s off, will I have the clearance to remove the rack or do I need to remove something else?

Thanks for your help,
Nick in SC

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"I loosened both the upper and lower nut and bolt on the u-joint but no luck"

You need to actually remove the bolts completely before the u-joint will slide of the splines.

Thank you John, you were 100% correct. The steering column has an index cut into it so the u-joint cannot slip out (see attached fyi).

NOW THE TOUGH PART!

I have the steering rack completely lose but I don't have the clearance to take it out. I removed the two front bolts holding the front differential and jacked it up a bit but still no luck. Can anyone tell me how do I now remove the rack from the car?


THANKS!!!
Nick

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Sorry nick, i've never actually removed the rack so i cant help in that dept.

Just done a search and found this by another poster............hope it helps.....



Same day, steering racks for both my MY01 E430 and my MY02 ML320 were replaced!!!!!!!!!!As some of you may know, my ML went in for B service a couple of months ago and came out with a steering that sounded like an eerie windy night, at the slightest movement of the wheel. Diagnosis: steering rack needed replacement, was backordered. About a month later, the E was due for B service. Came out with similar eerie noise!!!! Diagnosis: You guess it!! How can that be possible? I called my SA and asked if same tech worked on both cars - No! Could it be their equipment - don't think so 'cause both have been in for B at least once before this. Both were replaced yesterday and I'm glad they were both under warranty.

If you ever have this problem, here's what you'll be facing (directly from my service order):
1) Remove both axle rods
2) Remove drive shaft
3) Remove differential (I asume front only!!!)
4) Remove power steering rack
5) Replace power steering rack
6) Installed new seals and drain plug on diff
7) Filled with P/S fluid (synthetic)
8) Reinstall axles
9) 4-wheel alignment

In between, they had to pull out the torsion bars and all many other small stuff. Like I said, I'm glad it was under warranty!!!

The good news is that the truck drives much better - no I'm not exaggerating. Many funny noises have disappeared. Even the cracking noise is gone (I suppose since they had to disassemble the torsion bar they probably found issues with the bushings too!!!). Anyway, I love the smoother front end.

oh boy, thanks for the info but not what I wanted to hear...

Sorry 'bout that ....Would be good to hear what the final story is.

Could not remove the steering rack. I unbolted the differential, removed the tie-rods, but just not enough clearance. I ended up putting everything back together and brought it to a local repair shop.

They want $2000 for a new steering rack, $1200 for a rebuilt one PLUS $630 for installation.

They also told me the PS pump needs to be replaced @ 878.75

Happy Festivious

Sorry to hear that nick, shame after all that work you had to put it all back for nothing..

Thanks for the update.

Nick,

Call the these people, http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=213951 ask for Tim in parts and get the part number for the rack, if you don't already have it and then check their internet price. Should be less than anywhere else, and that place is a Mercedes dealer.

Nick,

See if number below is the correct part for the rack, a new one is $817.

Search by OEM Part Number:
(Select Make)ChryslerDodgeEagleJeepMercedes-BenzPlymouth


Part Number Search Results : Mechanical Catalog
Item Number MSRP Core Price Price
1634600425 $1,090.00 $0.00 $817.50
Steering - Steering gear & linkage - Steering gear
STEERING GEAR, ML320, ML430 1998 - 2001

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The quote you got locally for the rack sounds about right at over twice the MSRP for the part. Not sure about the number of hours they charge for the job. The price of the power steering pump is probably a lot less too, if you really need one.

Do you have to use a lift to do this job? Is that why you couldn't get it out?