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#1
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transmission problem.. HELP please!
Hi guys!
had anyone maybe noticed/experienced the following problem: - when doing "kickdown" the kicker is not immediate or smooth, but rather rought and delayed and sometimes feels like it's kicking, and than again "doing some kicking, like something is .. well, wrong?".. - when driving slowly, with foot gentle on pedal, it dont slowly accelerate, but also time to time accelerate itself like i would step on it more (but not much, and im not accelerating) and than change the gear into higher, with again dropping the rpm back to the point where it was before this unwanted "gear change" - when stopping, sometimes it holds the transmission 2 long in high gear than rought change down so whole car pulls a little ATM im having my car on service.. when explaining what is wrong with car the mechanic told me "it's a transmission differencial.. or even the whole transmission!" Please guys help me if someone knows what that can be.. |
#2
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Sounds like it could be the MAF faulty, this can cause all sorts of 'wierd' gearbox behaviour when it goes bad..............its a relatively inexpensive item so probably worth trying a replacement first as it doesn't always throw up a code.
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#3
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Quote:
The Mass Air Flow meter, mentioned in the previous post, is a 10 minute job and about $200. DO NOT buy a used one on EBAY. a new MAF meter is even iffy, as I have heard there is about a 20% failure rate. This is where it pays to buy from a dealer who will give you a 1 year warranty on the part Regards. Jim in Phoenix |
#4
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Don't go throwing parts at you car because someone on the internet had a hunch.
Get to a good independent MB shop that can read your transmission adaptation data. Don't go to a general transmission shop. |
#5
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Quote:
I should mention though that i've personally saved $$$ (£££) thanks to all the 'hunches' posted on the various MB internet forums that have resulted in diagnosing problems that have arisen on my ML over the last 4 years. |
#6
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Sorry for hurting your feelings John. I had no intention of ruining you day.
You are right, there is a lot of good advise on these forums. And there are a lot of repairs on ML's that can easily be fixed without diagnosis, like window switches, fuel level sensors, filters, aux fans, blah blah blah. Aawawa, said that her vehicle was already in the shop and they're suggesting a transmission. I was just advising that person to get a proper diagnosis of the trans. Especially before replacement of the entire transmission as stated in the post. The adaptation data is the best and cheapest starting point I can think of before they authorize a complete replacement. Relax and have a nice day. |
#7
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Quote:
My suggestion that the MAF was possibly causing the problem was more than a 'hunch', it was from reading posts on various similar MB forums reporting very similar transmission behaviour and the result being that, in some cases, a new MAF cured the problem. I also pointed out that a MAF fault doesn't always show up on the diagnostics. Regards. |
#8
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I do need to watch my "tone".
peace |
#9
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Quote:
What about the transmission differencial, as the mechanic told me when he did a kick down, he told me like in 2 sec, "Well, it's the transmission differencial. See how i quicky analize it?" I have no idea even what trans. differencial is, or what does it serve to.. Thanks for all the answers guys, you are the best! I'll let you know what the situation was... |
#10
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First, You need to go to a shop that is experienced in current Mercedes Benz transmissions. Don't go to the cheapest one in town.
Someone with the Mercedes Computer can diagnose that trans. properly. I don't know if there is after market equipment that will read the fill times and fill presures, but those are the key to diagnosing that trans. Secondly, that transmission did not come with a magnet in the pan. It's OK to add one later, but I've heard stories of people installing magnets of the wrong size and in the wrong place. I think it's plausible that a big enough magnet can pull down the filter or even effect steel check balls inside the valve body. So it needs to be the right size and in the right place. Bottom line: make sure the shop is experienced in Mercedes transmissions. |
#11
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Hi,
You need special fluid for your 722.6 transmission which you should buy at your Mercedes Benz dealer. The Mobile 1 synthetic fluid is not the right one for your transmission and will probably cause it to fail. Joe
__________________
2004 ML350 Black with charcoal leather, OEM Hitch, Rhino step, Bose, Navigation, OEM front guard, Comfort package, Entertainment package, Sunroof, heated seats. |
#12
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Quote:
i forgot to mention that sometimes, but really rare, car is shuddering in idle, and time to time, as i say very rare (2 times / months) it also stalls i mean the engine stops.. if this can help in any way.. problem is also, here in Slovenia, there is SO not many good mechanics for Mercedes, especially ML.. does any of you know where in Europe there would be a good, trustable mechanic? Maybe somewhere in Austria? if anyone knows, please tell me i would really appriciate it! thank you again guys for all your help! |
#13
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The ONLY fluid you should use in your 722.6 tranny is MB part number A001 989 45 03 10, it comes in 1 litre bottles.
http://www.pointedthree.com/disc/forums/showthread.php?tid=1874&posts=7&start=1 |
#14
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If your MAF is faulty your check engine light should be on. Check MAF adaptation values before replacing, too expensive to replace on a hunch.
Make sure the trans oil level is correct. You need to know the temperature of the oil to get a valid oil level reading. These transmissions are very finicky regarding oil level.
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Lenny There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games. --Ernest Hemingway '10 GL550/'04 BMW 545/'99 BMW 323/'98 ML320/'87 VW GTI (race) |
#15
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A faulty MAF doesn't always put the check light on.
Dont let all the smoke and mirrors fool you regarding the tranny oil level....buy the special dipstick, get your vehicle fully up to normal working temperature (take it for a 20 mile drive first, this will ensure the tranny is at working temp), make sure the vehicle is parked on level ground, with the engine running at idle in 'P', check the level is BEWEEN the max and min on the 80 degree scale. |
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