Hello, I am in the process of replacing driver's side catalytic converter on my '99ML430. I took all the bolts out and the cat (the pipe section from exhaust manifold to the muffler) is loose, but short of disassamblying the frame, I cannot see how to get it out. Any help would be greatly appreciated, because a wife without a vehicle is a wife I wish did not have And, she's a keeper, so please help if you can. Thanks!

Go to ML forum. Then go to advanced search, type in my in my screen name where it says user name and for keyword use "converter". That should take you to a few threads I did when I removed mine.

Edited:
That cracked converter business happened so much they did a recall on it. Take vehicle to dealer they should fix it for free. Mine had the problem before the recall, so I just fixed it.

Ron, thanks. I used the search function before, but for some reason did not come across your thread. Unfortunately, all the pictures have expired and I just don't know exactly what a torsion bar is. Is it the round black bar that runs logitudinally along the vehicle, engine to just before muffler? Where do I measure the lift? I don't have an air hammer and my truck is on a couple of jack stands on the drivers side. All the bolts are off the cat and it is haging loose... Have I bitten off more then I can chew?

Oh, and my truck has almost 108K mi and even though my VIN range is in the general cat replacement campaign bulletin, I did not get a PERSONAL letter, so MB will not, CATEGORICALLY, replace my cat - even though they already had replaced the passenger side cat a while back because it split down the seam due to poor workmanship. Can you tell I'm a little bitter?

Yes, apparently the photos only stay up for so long. As for the air hammer, I would not have been able to get it off without one, but I'm definatley not very strong.

Measure the lift thru a hole in the bottom of the torsion bar near the rear, sorry but it's been a while since I did mine and I forget exactly where. I used a venier caliper to get the depth.

I think one of my treads has the whole process outlined.

Technically the job is not hard it's just a pain. I'll look to see if I have any of the photos anywhere.

Hey vr430; Misery loves company. I too have a ML with a cracked driver's cat. Even though VIN is in range, dealer and MBUSA refuse to even consider replacing it. I wish I knew what the date codes on the cat need to be in order for MB to honestly believe this is not worthy of replacement like all the others who got letters.

Finally decided I need to replace it only to find none in stock at dealer and they have had one on backorder for another customer supposedly since December. No wonder everyone didn't get a letter. Could this be MB's way of controlling and managing the "free" replacements?

Anyone know of a shop in the Hartford CT area who would do the weld if I pull the cat assembly out of the car? Thanks.

__________________
Jim

Any shop that does tig welding can fix it. I recommend tig over mig because you get much better penetration with tig.

Ron, did you have to take off 3 bolts that hold the coupler - hexagonal piece of pipe to the control arm (?)?

I'm still not able to visualize how the rod comes off. I climbed under the truck yesterday and cannot see where to pound. Thanks for your help.

hey there is a recall for the catilyst converter if you didnt know. Labor and everything is covered. Just take it in to your nearest Mercedes Dealership and they will take care of you. I had the same problem.

I don't think so. It's been a couple of years since I did this job. Unfortunatley the photos I posted in the thread about the repair are not there anymore, and I can not find them on any of my backup discs.

Post a photo of the part you have a question about and I then I can probably explain. The control arm pipe removed to the rear of vehicle. I used an air hammer to dislodge it and it came right out.

Ron, thanks. I'm not at home right now and can't snap pictures - will do when I get home. What's worse - the crack on the cat is now visible, and ML now sounds like something from a Monster Truck show, especially upon startup. And it's the poor workmanship on the weld - no doubt about it - I can peel off the weld with my finger to expose the seam!

Have you ever come across the WIS R&R procedure for either the cat or the torsion bar? I'm wondering what MB says about the whole rigamarole. I know what I see - cannot remove cat pipe without dislodging the torsion bar, - but this is ridiculous! MB engineers must have been on crack the day they designed this!

Thudux - please read mine and YuCrew's comments - this is NOT a true recall.

No.

Below is link to my adventure with this project over 2 years ago.
(R&R catalytic converter)

Unfortunatly photo are gone and I don't have them. I've emailed moderator and asked it they can be restored.

Thanks, Ron. I've gone through that post with a fine tooth comb over the last couple of days, but pictures are worth a thousand words... Hey, I'm bigger "waffler" then you, what can I say

Okay - I took the adjustment bolt out. Nothing else seems to wanna come out. I cannot see where there is much room for the bar to slide backward. See picture.

I then released the bracket holding the coupler (gold colored). Do I pound on the coupler? What supposed to come off from where? See picture.

I cannot see where I can pound on the hexagonal piece. Things are just not self-evident to me - sorry.

Thanks for the help.

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Do not pound on the coupler.

When I clicked on your photo it appeared on my computer in very poor quality.

Take another photo showing the area further toward the rear by about 1 or 2 feet from where you took the first photo. Take that photo looking towards the front from the rear.

I was trying to comply with the 65KB limit. I'll make next picture bigger. please note I already put the bracket back on.

Also, any hints on how to put the adjustment bolt back in? I took it all the way out.

Thanks Ron for the help!

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