ML320 2002 water pump and thermostat sensor - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Smith007 · #1 05-10-2007, 08:35 PM

Let see: my day started, with the Greeks inventing the first wheel without a bearing, problem is my 2 vehicles have/had bearings...
Upon the removal of the water pump, yes you guessssed it bearing collapse I crack the sensor closest to the themostat housing (see pic)
and my front wheel bearing on my other vehicle goes. - 2 vehicles out of commission.

Can someone please tell me the name and part number of the sensor closest to the themostat housing (see pic)?
How much they paid?

Can anyone provide me with the torque spec on the 18 different bolts for the water pump?

mbdoc · #2 05-11-2007, 08:11 AM

Coolant temp sensor...000-542-51-18...$11. LIST

No spec for torquing water pump bolts. general rule of thumb is 10-12 ftlbs foe a 8mm bolt

Smith007 · #3 05-11-2007, 09:26 AM

Doc
ML 320 2002
What is the torque Pattern for all 18 bolts?
My understanding is that the new pump comes with a gaskets and a RUBBER SEAL - Where does the rubber seal go? please

What is the torque spec on the Fan assembly clutch nut? please

mbdoc · #4 05-11-2007, 10:13 AM

No pattern just snug all of them & go in a circle to torque them.

ON the gasket VS the seal ...depending on the DESIGN of the front cover you use the 1 designed to fit that cover... you would NEVER use both of them.

Smith007 · #5 05-11-2007, 10:22 AM

What is the torque spec on the Fan assembly clutch (large) nut? please

or just by feel or snug??

supradupe · #6 05-11-2007, 11:54 PM

here's the wis instruction and fan clutch removal.

Smith007 · #7 05-12-2007, 06:14 PM

ML 320 2002
I just opened up the helpful info you sent now after replacing water pump but I have a another problem. But I will beable to double check my work against your very helpful information, thank you ever so much!!!!!

Short end of the problem experiencing:
ML 320 2002
Just replaced the waterpump drive around the block all looks sounds good, put the plastic engine cover back on now car turns fine but won't start return from a function start working again on the car, remove the plastic engine cover car starts, drive around the block car dies 10m from the the drive get out fiddle around, car starts with engine light on.
(ps the the vehicle overheated probably for 30 sec while I worked my way out the main Hwy when the pump blew, maybe it fried the thermostat as i feel no pressure in the top hose when it reaches approx 80 temp on the dial, anf the computer has registered this and this is why the engine light is on, in addition when it had this intermittant starting problem it's the weidest start ever as all is turning and working, belt starter motor etc but its a longgggg turn but obvioulsy with no spark or ignition - I thought it might be the security in the key or the plastic engine cover snagged something or again the thermostat)
Now ???

Smith007 · #8 05-12-2007, 11:23 PM

ML320 2002
Now??? Here is the update:
I fortunately got hold of chap up the road to come have a look see and here is what was discovered:
I did not have information other than what was said on the sheet of paper which came with the water pump; take the screw cap off the antifreeze water filler bottle or reservoir of the car fill it up and leave the cap off, start the car so as to assist with getting air locks or air out of the water system out the car while the car is running up to operating temperature - which I did but experienced the problems mentioned in the immediate post above. What the chap did do different is that he revved/accelerated (at first periodically about 3000 rpm then later on keeping it at 3000 rpm for longer periods of time, the thermostat opened during these procedures and the flow of water increased throughout the system unlike when I was doing it by just letting it idle and thereby expelling any air in the entire system with the thermostat open. What was discovered further was that the top radiator hose leading to the thermostat housing was collapsing because of a huge air gap in the system and also that I need a new hose especially in that section.
Also discovered which is not necessary relevant to the problem I was having and what Doc has mentioned in other posts was that the air filter was in serious need of replacement (which I am embarrassed to admit really am this is a silly oversight on my part), also (again not necessarily relevant to my immediate problem above) that the clutch assembly needs to be replaced showing play and wear and that even though antifreeze was more than a 50/50 ratio or rich blend of antifreeze to water which in turn raises ones boiling point in summer it would have no real benefit if the fan assembly or viscous fan/ clutch fan is running at 1/2 its speed.
The chap then said without checking or even looking doesn’t forget to re-tighten the cables to the battery, especially the red/live battery cable and sure enough it was loose. The chap then went on to say that this is a great vehicle and strong engine and will last for a long time, good coil pack, the only thing negative is the front axles (if this includes the ball joints, I don't know) axles and the Mass airflow sensor and the temp. Sensor may have to be replaced from time to time.

So I will be purchasing the 3 new parts as soon as possible, especially the
hose above asap as he said that the hose will probably swell up and explode pretty soon.

But here is where I fall short:
How does the above problem find marry up with what appears to be an electrical fault??? anyone??
My guess is that had this been an older vehicle without sensors I would have driven without knowing any better, but the sensors sensed no water flow and put the vehicle in limp mode or warning mode of possible engine failure and thus would not start?

Smith007 · #9 10-08-2009, 08:26 PM

2002 ML 320 Km 186 000.00
Water does not appear to be leaking from above the pulley, but dripping from bottom end of the water pulley.
Question please:
Does the ML 320 water pump have a wear hole in the above location?

If there is no wear hole, is this location [bearing] where water leaks out of the pump when it is on its way out?

Appears to be leaking when vehicle engine is turned off, "approximate" time until the pump goes completely? assuming the above is correct and it has a wear hole?

Please and thank you!

supradupe · #10 10-08-2009, 10:57 PM

see below in red

Quote:

Originally Posted by Smith007

2002 ML 320 Km 186 000.00
Water does not appear to be leaking from above the pulley, but dripping from bottom end of the water pulley.
Question please:
Does the ML 320 water pump have a wear hole in the above location?
Yes, just right under the big hose inlet.

If there is no wear hole, is this location [bearing] where water leaks out of the pump when it is on its way out?
if the pump is on the way out, you will see a leak, it will progressively get worse. Don't know how many miles you have gone through, my original water pump only last 60 some thousand miles.

Appears to be leaking when vehicle engine is turned off, "approximate" time until the pump goes completely? assuming the above is correct and it has a wear hole?

Don't know for sure, watch out for your coolant, if you see it starts turning dark, your impeller (getting wobbly) may be grinding the timing cover, once it gets a hole, it becomes a very expensive repair.

Please and thank you!

Smith007 · #11 10-14-2009, 12:52 AM

Thanks Supradupe for your reply... I start the job tomorrow: ML 320 2002
With a lot of negative ... attitude Why? the " automatic tensioner pulley " or " automatic adjusting tensioner " huge problems - I replaced a new belt last water pump as it shreaded but did I battle!!!!!!

1)These posts help! thanks! but I am a bit slow ...

Serpentine Belt

To remove the belt you need to release the tensioner, to do this attach a torx e10 socket and ratchet to the pully on the tensioner and pull just as if you were loosening up a bolt. There is a hole on the tensioner to hold it in place with a metal rod, I never saw it so I simply slipped the belt off at this point and let the tensioner back out. then slip the belt off toss it and put on the new belt. The tensioner is self tensioning so just let it go and its ready to run. Check to make sure the belt is seated on all the pullys correctly

Question:
A
1) Is this torx bolt on the back of the tensioner pulley (ML 320 2002)? or on the back of the tensioner housing?

2) Can one use a 12" ratchet or a longer breaker bar (or either) with the torx e10 socket?

3) Which direction must one turn or pull the ratchet or breaker bar to release the - Left, Right (while facing the motor)?

4) What degree is the maximum one can turn or pull the ratchet or breaker bar to release ?

5) I think there are casting knobs on the back of the tensioner housing - How does one HOLD the tensioner in place? - long bar, short bar, would the bar run between these knobs and rest against what? or would one shove the bar perpendicular to the knobs?

6) Maybe even a pic of the torx e10 socket in place where it goes on the pulley would be nice?

B
Is there another way of loosening the "viscous fan or clutch fan" if one does NOT have the special tool to hold the fan still or steady while undoing the large nut with a flat wrench or spanner?

Thank you

Smith007 · #12 10-15-2009, 08:55 AM

Job is done Will post pics
I have tried and tried to post pics but failed MISERABLY so I asked one of the administrators to add them form my email - I give up

Smith007 · #13 10-19-2009, 09:20 AM

Finally some pics so long

If I may suggest one should CHECK and see if there is play on the water pump pulley every now and again you do not want to damage the aluminium on the block = big bucks!!!!!
Tips: on MY ML320 2002
WARNING (there are exceptions in the wis manual for certain models) on my ML320 2002 Viscous fan or clutch fan while facing the engine turn the nut (with the 36mm wrench) LEFT too loosen

purchase a new water temp sensor as when you go to turn it to the right as there is a little lip on the very top of the water pump that has to clear the sensor when you remove and replace the new water pump

purchase new water pump pulley bolts in the event you damage them when one uses the flat bar tool to hold the pulley in place while loosening the viscousfan nut

On the idler pulley you need a small screw driver to remove the dust cover to get to the internal torx nut thereby allowing you access to the external torx bolt directly to the right of the said pulley

There are 17 bolts to the water pump itself IT IS IMPERATIVE that you take a box like i did map out the NEW water pump like i did and ONE by ONE insert them as you remove

Purchase an idler pulley especially if there is no restocking fee because when the serpentine belt is off and the pulley is spun free willy it may be pretty noisy especially when you take a 12” piece of wood to your ear and on the centre of the bearing and spin it – change may be apparent
You may have to remove the top radiator hose off the rad side and the bottom rad hose on the rad side so as to easily remove the viscous fan bulky black safety housing which incases the fan

ML320 2002 model:
1) Remove the 2 bolts at the bottom and sides of the viscous fan bulky black safety housing and you may want to slide the housing up as there is a sliding tab on either side of the housing halfway up it
2) Remove the viscous fan

Go here to see more pics
http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz54/Smith007/wppulley.jpg
http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz54/Smith007/hNo8WPoffdamage_edited-1copy.jpg
http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz54/Smith007/jNo12onetypegasketraised_edited-1co.jpg
http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz54/Smith007/oldwpandheatsensorbreaker1.jpg
http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz54/Smith007/onetypegasketraised.jpg
http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz54/Smith007/serpentinebeltpathmanual1.jpg
http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz54/Smith007/serpentinebeltpath1.jpg

Smith007 · #14 10-19-2009, 09:26 AM

Pics...

triguy450 · #15 01-30-2011, 06:59 PM

I have the same issue Mr. Smith007 has. I replaced the water pump successfully but broke the Coolant temp sensor...000-542-51-18 too.

My engine temperature gauge is now not working nor is the heating system for the interior of the car.

My question is, will the coolant temp sensor affect the car's interior heating system or should I now be looking at something else?
Ed