Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog Tech Info Tech Forums
 
  Search our site:    
 Cart  | Project List | Order Status | Help    


Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum > Technical Information and Support > ML, GL, G-Wagen, R-Class, Unimog, Sprinter

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 06-12-2010, 11:10 PM
registered user
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 3
Replacing Spark Plugs on ML 320 (2000)

I'm thinking about changing the plugs myself, I heard that I need a special tool to disconnect the wires....is this true? What are the best plugs to put in?
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 06-13-2010, 06:31 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Albuquerque, NM USA
Posts: 1,941
The linked writeup describes the tool requirements nicely but contains two serious errors.

1. DO NOT put antiseize on plug threads. Mercedes, Bosch, EVERYONE says don't do it. It makes a mess and encourages stripping threads, as the plugs will end up overtorqued as lubrication eliminates ability for torque wrench to provide correct specified reading.

2. DO NOT use KMart platinum plugs as shown, but rather use ONLY the original specification plug, as noted in owners manual.

There is zero/zip/nada 'mericun shadetree mekaniken knowledge that can supercede Mercedes engineering.
__________________
Kent Christensen
Albuquerque
'07 GL320CDI, '06 SLK350
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 06-14-2010, 12:50 PM
sunedog's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: White Rock, SC
Posts: 199
Standard 17mm combination wrench worked for me (mine are Craftsman).

Tip: Stuff an old bath towel down along the inner fender (under the plugs). When (not if) you drop something like one of the new plugs, it will land on the towel instead of going into the inaccessible bowels of the engine compartment.
__________________


Behind every great man is a great woman. Behind every great woman is a great behind.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 07-27-2010, 01:26 PM
JT Burkard's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 41
This was very useful as a buddy of mine asked me if I can do plugs and wires on his 2002 ML320.

Again this forum has provided to be a very good information source.
__________________
~ JT Burkard ~
www.jtresto.com
www.wickedreputation.com
1977 BMW 320i Black
1977 BMW 320i Serria Beige
1980 Firebird Formula
1986 Alfa Romeo Spider
1996 BMW 740il
2003 Dodge Ram 1500 QC 4x4 Hemi
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 07-30-2010, 08:14 AM
JT Burkard's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by JT Burkard View Post
This was very useful as a buddy of mine asked me if I can do plugs and wires on his 2002 ML320.

Again this forum has provided to be a very good information source.
I finally did the plugs in my friends ML 320 last night. He had 120k miles and still the original MB spark plugs. Half the electrodes were worn completely down and it sounded like it was running on 4 cyls.

This was not as hard as a job as some people let onto. I took my time and did the drivers side first to get the hardest side out of the way. I think it took about 1.45 hours to complete the plugs and wires. After doing the drivers side I realized that with each coil pack, the top plug wire went to the front plug and the bottom wire went to the rear plug of that cylinder. So, on the passenger side, I just moved all three coil packs, pulled all 6 plug wires (after figuring which ones were the longer ones) and then all 6 plugs at the same time. I did the Passenger side from start to finish in 30 minutes. And I didn't cut my hands on the manifold covers!

A little dielectric grease on either end of the plug wires for protection and for ease of removal later and I was good to go. The best tip that was given was to stuff a towel or old clothing between the exhaust manifold and the inner fenderwell. I dropped one of the coil screws and it saved me from having to fish it from the frame rails under the engine.

Here is also another tip: Make sure when you are putting the engine cover on you do not push it all the way back to line it up. You may knock the vacuum line to the brake booster back out of the manifold. When we started the truck after the plugs were done, it ran like junk. I could hear a colossal vacuum leak. I started to feel around back there and once I moved the vacuum line and heard it stop leaking, I knew I found the issue. I simply pushed it back into place and vacuum leak stopped and the truck ran well.

Thanks again to everyone for their advice.
__________________
~ JT Burkard ~
www.jtresto.com
www.wickedreputation.com
1977 BMW 320i Black
1977 BMW 320i Serria Beige
1980 Firebird Formula
1986 Alfa Romeo Spider
1996 BMW 740il
2003 Dodge Ram 1500 QC 4x4 Hemi
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:06 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2011 Pelican Parts - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page