I have a 2000 ml55 with 81,000 on it. Want to change front and rear shocks as it makes noise over bumps and bounces over uneven pavement.

Does anyone have any suggestions for replacements - I.E. Bilsteins or Sachs? Where to purchase? On-line instructions for front and rear?

Thanks
marc

My Mercedes dealer wanted $1600. to replace the rear shocks.
Because one squeeked.
--
I bought one shock for about $140. as only one made noise.
--
When the weather breaks I will let you know how it went.
The $1400 savings will take my family to Florida for 2 weeks.

It's 12 degrees in Michigan.

Come March I will install (or attempt to ) the shock. I cant imagine it taking more than a half day.

Life is full of choices.

__________________
Steve Danville
what i did myself.
CPS
rear shocks
MAS x 3.
SparkPlugs (twice)
Fuel pump & Filter
Window switch
replaced both failed horns with Honda horns.
Cleaned ERG Tube
Oil changes
Oil consumption Fix
Brake Pads
A/C Recharge
Anti-Freeze change X 2.
Front Shocks. Monroe. $90
Mercedes Warrenty Work:
Harmonic balancer,power steering clamp. Cat converters.Drive Shaft Bearing.s
Replaced Outer Lower Tie Rods and front lower ball joints at 156,000 miles

Fast Robert, you do not need the bump stops on the Bilsteins. Bilsteins have internal bump stops.

Toad

Toad,

Didn't know they had internal bumpstops. The MB bumpstops and front shock bushings from the OEM shocks are MUCH better quality than the garbage included in the Bilstein kit. I reused the stock pieces. Best to be safe than sorry.

Steve,

Glad to help chief.

FR

__________________
Fast Robert

At 54k ours are feeling pretty spoungy as well so when it returns from the body shop this will be something that will need to happen.

Are there good aftermarket shocks for the ML? Ride is of the most import as it's used for rural road driving, improved anti-roll would be nice as well.

Nice to see some pics/diagrams. Thx Tabo and thanks Gilly for the R&R info on the rear. I would not have gone after the lower control arm right off the bat. Front's look pretty simple.

Thanks,

John

Fast Robert Sent Me Pics On How To Replace The Rear Shocks. Was Going To Do It Myself But I Asked My Local Mechanic Here In The Middle Of Nowhere And He Said He Could Do The Labor For $160 So I Said Absolutely. He Did It For That Amount And Said It Really Cost Him About $220 In Shop Time But He Stuck With What He Quoted Me. I Thought That Was A Hell Of A Deal. New Bilsteins, Rides Nice, No More Creaking And Groaning.

Apologies for joining this discussion late ...

First off, I have the famous rear creaking which my shop says is from one of the rear strut joints. Is the joint the source of the creaking or is it the shock itself?

I'm hoping that replacing the shock will fix it - previous messages seem to indicate so.

However, I'm confused about which shocks to order ... L4000-86676 or L4000-159265. Do I need the strut and spring assembly?

I guess it depends on the chassis number. How do I find the chassis number of my car (2000 ML320) from the choices listed?

-A 145272
-X 707755
A 145273-
X 707756-
-A 093893

Any help would be appreciated.

Bet its your shock.
Mine creaked- bought a bilstein for $140 ish plus shipping, paid a muffler shop $40 to remove Coil-- and reinstall it on the aftermarket.

THEN I bought a pair of NEW Mercedes shocks W/ coils ---waiting for the other to make noise, which it has not 20,000 miles later.

Want to buy one ? $200.00

__________________
Steve Danville
what i did myself.
CPS
rear shocks
MAS x 3.
SparkPlugs (twice)
Fuel pump & Filter
Window switch
replaced both failed horns with Honda horns.
Cleaned ERG Tube
Oil changes
Oil consumption Fix
Brake Pads
A/C Recharge
Anti-Freeze change X 2.
Front Shocks. Monroe. $90
Mercedes Warrenty Work:
Harmonic balancer,power steering clamp. Cat converters.Drive Shaft Bearing.s
Replaced Outer Lower Tie Rods and front lower ball joints at 156,000 miles

Thanks Steve, but I'm going to do both rears since I have about 70k on them. Can you tell me which Bilstein shock you bought?

I've found two part numbers for a Bilstein rear shock without the spring:

BE5-2985 and L4000-86676

It's probably the same part, but I'd appeciate you confirming.

thanks,

Ken

I just replaced both my rear shock/spring assemblys last weekend. I have a 1999 ML430 with 84K miles. The right rear was creaking loudly so decided to replace both rear shocks once I was certain of the noise source.

I did the whole job myself for a total of $116 not including my time. I decided to go the easy route and order the OEM (Sachs) shock/spring strut combinations pre-assembled, they were $58 apiece online.

Mercedes part # 163-320-23-13 or
Sachs part # 290-055






Although the shocks and springs came assembled it was not a quick replacement. The three top nuts securing the top of the shock assembly are had to get at, especially the left rear because the fuel inlet pipe is in the way. The spare tire and carrier must be removed to get to these nuts (as stated in other posts it is critical to have a ratcheting 13 mm offset box end wrench).

top right


top left


On the left rear I also removed the fenderwell plastic, which helped a little. Once the lower control arm is disconnected from the frame there is plenty of room to work in replacing the shock. The torque values are listed in other posts.

guys, thanks for all your help..great information !!

This last weekend changed out my front shocks with Bilsteins on my 1999 ML430. Pretty easy job. I found it easier to totally remove the fender liners in order to get to the top nut on the shocks. BTW, the Bilsteins have a better design than the Arvins that were removed. The top of the piston on the Bilstein takes an allen wrench that prevents the piston from turning while you tighen the hex nut on the shock.

Planning on changing out the rears and replacing brake pads this next weekend.

I have a 99 ml 430 that has a BAD creaking problem with the rear shocks/struts. I am fully confident that I can change them out myself. My issue is which shock to use. Amazingly, at 60k miles, the original tags are still on the springs. I have the infamous 163-320-24-13 (aka L4000-159265) shocks on there, which go for almost $300 a piece even online. I would love to use the ones that people are picking up for less than $150 for the pair (say the 163-320-23-13). But my concerns is that there has to be something different between the two, otherwise, why would MB have seperate part numbers (different weight capacities, spring rates, bolt pattern, stud diameter, etc.)? I know that Wolfgang's page lists both as the "replacement" for the 99 ml 430, but what is the difference? I have a very early production (i.e. late 98) version. Can anyone allay my fears and save me $400+ on buying the same part numbers I have?

Man, if you can be a little patient I should be able to answer that question in a week or two. Just received the 163-320-23-13 today after ordering them 7/1/05...that is awesome service from Philip on FastLane..plus no charge for shipping. I paid $69.00 each which is simply amazing, IF they work for my early 99 ML430. According to my VIN, mine also calls for the 24's.

Could not get a definative answer on the differences between the 23's and 24's but it could possibly be only dampening rates or perhaps one is a tad longer than the other. Physically, I believe the two are identical and interchangeable. I'll let you know ASAP.......if they do work that means all four shocks AND rear springs can be changed out for a grand total on parts of approx $342.00 plus a few incidentals, such as self-locking nuts.

Pardon my ignorance, when you guys take out the old shocks, do you loosen the bolts (the bottom ones that connectds to the lower control arm) while the car is on the ground? or just jack it up and unbolt everything. I have a 98 ML and looking to replace it next year some time.