ML320 Shock replacement installation help needed
 

Troops,

After receiving a $1700 quote :eek: from our local MB dealer to replace the shocks on our 98 ML320, a decision was made to tackle this project myself. Replacement fitment will be arriving this week and any suggestions, recommendations, tips, tricks, etc. would be most appreciated. Luckily, I posses a moderate degree of mechanical aptitude and an ever growing tool collection. :) A set of HAL QA1 12-way adjustable shocks were installed on my 2001 SVT Lightning in the garage in approx 3 hours.

In looking at the front shocks, they seem to be a simple R&R however the replacement units for the rear don't include the coil springs so they will need to be transferred. This leads to some questions:
[list=1][*]Other than a spring compressor, are there any special tools required to remove the coil from the factory unit?[*]Are the upper shock nuts accessible via the small 'doors' or do the interior panels have to come out?[*]What are the torque specs for the shocks?[/list=1]

Again, any guidance would be appreciated.

Robert

why are you changing the shocks?
 

is it because the ride isn't smooth anymore? loud bumps when going over bumps? I know some other ml'ers who changed there shocks at 80K miles as well.. could you have gotten aftermarket shocks? Sorry I've never done a ML but I've done suspension work on subaru's and hondas and they are so easy... I'm sure its similar.. just be careful when you take out the spring! btw: takes some pics of the install =) I wanna learn too haha..
hope these pics help you out!

Front suspension....

rear suspension..
 

rear...

Hello Robert:
Here is a post I put up in the past week or so regarding the top nuts:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/ml-gl-g-wagen-r-class-unimog-sprinter/53156-need-help-removing-ml320-rear-strut.html

I believe the torque on the top nuts is 25 nm.
The single large nut on the botton I "believe" is 85 nm, not 100% sure, maybe 80% sure.

In addition to obviously removing the top 3 nuts and the single one at the bottom, you also need to remove the rear sway bar links and the 2 long bolts on each lower rear control arm. When reinstalling the rear control arms, the truck needs to be resting on it's wheels before tightening the bolts. I usually do the tightening of these bolts on an alignment rack, i imagine it could be done on the ground as well.

The MB rear shocks come with the spring as an assembly, so never had to r&r the springs from the shocks.

I just noticed you said; "In looking at the front shocks", I believe you meant to say rear. Never had to mess with a front shock on an ML, plus it has a front torsion bar spring, not a coil. Plus you mentioned taking interior panels out, so I believe you are talking about the rear shocks.

Gilly

On the rear suspension diagram Tabo posted, the 2 long bolts I mentioned go through the bushings on the lower control arm (#8 in the drawing), the bushing is #9 in the drawing, there are 2 of these bushings on each side. The control arm has to be disconnected at the rear subframe by removing these bolts so the shock can come out.

Gilly

Re: why are you changing the shocks?
 

My shocks were toast at 50k.

Despite claims by my SA that they never replcae ML shocks, mine needed replacement badly.

You are 99% correct:
Top nuts torque is 20 nm
Large nut on the bottom - 85 nm
Nut connecting rod to torsion - 21 nm
Lower wishbone to rear axle carrier - 135 nm. Torque them with rear axle shafts horizontal.
You will need to replace all self-locking nuts and bolts.

OUTSTANDING!!
 

Thanks for the imagery and info!! (printing now) :D

The front shocks were replaced this evening in about an hour and a half. Super simple and very straightforward. How's that stack up to the tech time alloted? ;)

tabo,

I went with aftermarket shocks (Bilsteins) but the coils on the rear units aren't included. A little concern is building but challenges are good for the soul and it makes the Guinness taste better. ;) The slugs removed this evening were, IMHO, factory fitment and with 122K miles, they died long ago (read: noisy over bumps, too much rebound, etc.) Post-install shakedown ride profile difference was immediately noticible upon leaving the driveway.

Fear not, digital imagery was captured of the front and will occur on the rear as well. All will be posted upon project completion. Your images help A LOT and the favor shall be returned.

gilly,

My apologies for the confusion. The fronts are a SUPER easy R&R (see above). However, under the plastic 'sleeve' on the MB shock shaft was what appeared to be a bumpstop. It was transferred to the new shock as I didn't notice any obvious bumpstops on the frame. :confused: I'd rather have it there than not if nothing more than to protect the shock.

Thank you for the link with the writeup on the rear strut removal and the torque specs. Sounds like preseverance is key here. ;)

That Pete Guy,

Having replaced shocks on my Lightning, I honestly loathed driving the Benz because of its less than acceptable ride profile compared to the 'Redneck AMG.' Handling and neck-snapping torque comparisons aside as they aren't relevant to this topic and don't apply to a four out of five M-Class offerings... :D

myarmar,

Thank you very much for the torque specs!


Respectfully,

ml320 shock replacement - step by step instructions
 

To all- in case you need simple instructions..Bilstein Shock arrived UPS.

March 15th 2004 My Experience - one after market shock replacement..
1) remove spare tire
2) jack up frame remove tire.
3) remove inner fender well piece.
4) remove 3 top shock nuts. 2 from underneath one from fender well.
5) remove lower shock bolt
6) remove the 2 long swing arm bolts.
7) remove 2 nuts on top of sway bar link swing arm should move out of way.
7) remove shock - take to a spring compression guy. I went to muffler man.
8) they took off spring and told me they couldnt get off shock mount.
9) I took home , cut off plastic sleeve, cut off shock rod with grinding wheel, , flattened two sides of rod so vice would get good grap. broke loose pressed on fitting with vice grips. took pressure off vice and punched rod out of press fitting.
10) took back to the "professionals" at mufflerman. They then completed instaling shock in spring.

My only installation glitch...the bottom shock nut turned so hard I was afraid to go all the way where it should be..(with 1/2 threads sticking out past the nut.) I THINK I will have my kids sit on the back and snug it down.



Jun 3 2006 - I just replaced the Riight Rear shock.
While it is fresh in my mind , I wanted to report. On the rear right..1) I only slid out the spare tire and did not remove it..2) I had to remove all 3 top nuts from under neath. 3) I ONLY DIsconnected the swing arm and worked the shock out. Stiil took 2 1/2 hours. But the squeek is gone.

June 2009 - Front Shock Installation instructions.
10 year anniversary of my ML320. Built June 1999. Monroe shocks $90 fot the pair delivered ********.
10 Michigan winters prevented the top nuts from moving. This is no Honda. Had to drummel the top nuts off. That took an hour letting the dremmel cool down every couple minutes. Then removed the tires to have room to use a pipe extention on my breaker bar to get the bottom bolts off. With a friend guiding me a bit, had the new Monroes on lickity Split. The Monroe's do not have the bushing on the shaft to make it fit tight on the top bracket. My helper said the rubber bushing was made to keep it in place. I dont know. But its done. If I notice a big improvement, I will add more commentary.

sdanville,

Shoot me a PM with your email addy and I'll reply with imagery. :D

FR

reply
 

excellent- thanks-a million +
sdanville@grar.com

DEC 27th Update - - -YEP - GOT IT ! THANKS !

Steve,

You have mail. :cool:

FR

Shocks replacement guide
 

Hi,
I would highly appreciate it if someone would send me the guide to replace the shocks on the ML320 98, or point me to a link.
Please PM me or send me an email to kurdi1973@hotmail.com

Thanks in advance

If you need more help than the stuff already listed on the forum in this thread and some older threads you might want to consider letting a professional do it.

Try searching through fast roberts posts as he had some great instructions awhile ago.

ML320 Shocks... Do it Yourself. vs Pro
 

My Mercedes dealer wanted $1600. to replace the rear shocks.
Because one squeeked.
--
I bought one shock for about $140. as only one made noise.
--
When the weather breaks I will let you know how it went.
The $1400 savings will take my family to Florida for 2 weeks.

It's 12 degrees in Michigan.

Come March I will install (or attempt to ) the shock. I cant imagine it taking more than a half day.

Life is full of choices.

Fast Robert, you do not need the bump stops on the Bilsteins. Bilsteins have internal bump stops.

Toad

Toad,

Didn't know they had internal bumpstops. The MB bumpstops and front shock bushings from the OEM shocks are MUCH better quality than the garbage included in the Bilstein kit. I reused the stock pieces. Best to be safe than sorry.

Steve,

Glad to help chief.

FR

Re: Re: why are you changing the shocks?
 

At 54k ours are feeling pretty spoungy as well so when it returns from the body shop this will be something that will need to happen.

Are there good aftermarket shocks for the ML? Ride is of the most import as it's used for rural road driving, improved anti-roll would be nice as well.

Nice to see some pics/diagrams. Thx Tabo and thanks Gilly for the R&R info on the rear. I would not have gone after the lower control arm right off the bat. Front's look pretty simple.

Anybody have the torque spec for the front shock?
 

Thanks,

John

Rear Shocks
 

Fast Robert Sent Me Pics On How To Replace The Rear Shocks. Was Going To Do It Myself But I Asked My Local Mechanic Here In The Middle Of Nowhere And He Said He Could Do The Labor For $160 So I Said Absolutely. He Did It For That Amount And Said It Really Cost Him About $220 In Shop Time But He Stuck With What He Quoted Me. I Thought That Was A Hell Of A Deal. New Bilsteins, Rides Nice, No More Creaking And Groaning.

Part numbers for rear Bilsteins ?
 

Apologies for joining this discussion late ...

First off, I have the famous rear creaking which my shop says is from one of the rear strut joints. Is the joint the source of the creaking or is it the shock itself?

I'm hoping that replacing the shock will fix it - previous messages seem to indicate so.

However, I'm confused about which shocks to order ... L4000-86676 or L4000-159265. Do I need the strut and spring assembly?

I guess it depends on the chassis number. How do I find the chassis number of my car (2000 ML320) from the choices listed?

-A 145272
-X 707755
A 145273-
X 707756-
-A 093893

Any help would be appreciated.

shock
 

Bet its your shock.
Mine creaked- bought a bilstein for $140 ish plus shipping, paid a muffler shop $40 to remove Coil-- and reinstall it on the aftermarket.

THEN I bought a pair of NEW Mercedes shocks W/ coils ---waiting for the other to make noise, which it has not 20,000 miles later.

Want to buy one ? $200.00

Shock
 

Thanks Steve, but I'm going to do both rears since I have about 70k on them. Can you tell me which Bilstein shock you bought?

I've found two part numbers for a Bilstein rear shock without the spring:

BE5-2985 and L4000-86676

It's probably the same part, but I'd appeciate you confirming.

thanks,

Ken

Just replaced both my rear shocks
 

I just replaced both my rear shock/spring assemblys last weekend. I have a 1999 ML430 with 84K miles. The right rear was creaking loudly so decided to replace both rear shocks once I was certain of the noise source.

I did the whole job myself for a total of $116 not including my time. I decided to go the easy route and order the OEM (Sachs) shock/spring strut combinations pre-assembled, they were $58 apiece online.

Mercedes part # 163-320-23-13 or
Sachs part # 290-055
http://members.cox.net/ryunk/sachsbox.jpg
http://members.cox.net/ryunk/wholeshock.jpg
http://members.cox.net/ryunk/sachslabel.jpg
http://members.cox.net/ryunk/shocklabel.jpg


Although the shocks and springs came assembled it was not a quick replacement. The three top nuts securing the top of the shock assembly are had to get at, especially the left rear because the fuel inlet pipe is in the way. The spare tire and carrier must be removed to get to these nuts (as stated in other posts it is critical to have a ratcheting 13 mm offset box end wrench).

top right
http://members.cox.net/ryunk/toprightshock.jpg

top left
http://members.cox.net/ryunk/topleftshock.jpg

On the left rear I also removed the fenderwell plastic, which helped a little. Once the lower control arm is disconnected from the frame there is plenty of room to work in replacing the shock. The torque values are listed in other posts.

http://members.cox.net/ryunk/controlarmoff.jpg

Bobby - Unbelievable Price
 

Your Price just Blows my mind.
The dealer wanted about $1500 to replace mine.
I thought the stock shocks sold for about $500-$600 each.
Did you buy them at an auction ?

OEM parts ordered online
 

I ordered them from an all OEM parts store online.
I found a couple real quick.

Example, go to either of the following sites (there are many more)

http://catalog.peachparts.com/
http://www.thepartsbin.com/

and type in the Mercedes part # "1633202313" in the part search field.

Note: To ensure an accurate part number, get it from an authorized Mercedes parts dealer prior to ordering and be sure to provide the VIN when requesting the part number.

Shocking
 

At the parts bin the 1999 ML320 shock complete with coil spring it is $335.48 each.
The Bilstein is about $160. with no spring.

Yet typing in your part number brings up a shock at fraction of the cost of the others. I am flabergasted at the price.

Shock Quality
 

I Would Be Suspect Of The Oem Shocks, The Creaking Noise Is Caused By A Wore Out Bottom Bushing On The Assembly, When I Replaced Mine With Bilstiens And Removed The Old Ones, The Wore Bushings Were Completely Sloppy And Had A Ton Of Play. I Can't Believe They Did Not Make More Noise Than They Were Making.

I saw this and thought that perhaps the spring/shock set was cheaper because it is the older, outdated part number. But, I checked the part number "1633202313" on Wolfgang's site and it says that this is the correct number for the replacement (new and improved) spring/shock set for a 99 ML 320.

Amazing what a little knowledge and searching on the internet can do :)

Excellent information. I've not gotten around to doing mine yet, I have 105K on my 99 ML 320. Really I was not looking forward to removing the spring from the strut assembly. For the cost of new OEM assemblies I'm very much inclined to go that route.

Thank again for the information.

I did go ahead and get the OEM shock assemblies for the rear from one of my parts sources. I gave them the part number Bobby cited above. Cost was $53.60 each with free shipping. Just got the assemblies and they even have the MB star on the shock body. Still waiting on the front Bilsteins I ordered from another source at $102. each with free shipping.





Edited:

Installed the rear strut assemblies this morning. No problems. Was even able to use a 1/4" drive ratchet with 13mm socket to remove two of the bolts on the top of the shock mount, very easy; I used a racheting wrench like others advised for the other bolt in front. Did not need to remove spare tire since I could get to the nuts on top of the mount from the front.

You also have to pay attention to the lower stud of the rear shock. It is oval in shape, and if you do not line it up correctly in the lower control arm you will not be able to tighten it correctly.

I changed the rear struts on a friends ML320 in about an hour. Did not remove the inner fenders or spare tire. Ran my hand up the frame rail to get to the nuts with a ratchet wrench. Not a pleasant job, but it was only an hour.

ZF Sachs twin tube damper picture
 

http://www.zfsachs.com/owx_medien/media7/765.jpg

Just found this picture on their server. The W163 M-class dampers use this Sachs twin-tube design.

Would you be willing to share your part source the best I could find was $91 per shock for the rears.

Thanks,

Kevin

Kevin,

Below is the link to my source for the rear struts. I’m pretty sure the struts are not listed on the website. When you call make sure you speak with Rusty and give him the parts numbers Bobby cited in one of his posts in this thread, assuming you have a 1999 model. Feel free to tell Rusty that Ron in Charleston, SC referred you. Tell him you want the same struts I got, I buy parts for a few different MB’s and have dealt with Rusty for a good while.

http://www.***************/


I got the front shocks from AJ-USA. There link is below.

http://www.ajusa.com/cgi-bin/bilstein/start?ajr_skey=ef7ae3c3053b933cf4a7e79a9f20a1e3

Thanks for the hook up, I have a 01 430 and received the part #'s from the dealer using the VIN. The rears are the same as the 99 430. Good information and thanks again for sharing.

-Kevin

Ordered my front shocks Tuesday (ajusa) and the rears on Wednesday (bymbparts) and the rears showed up today, thats 2 day delivery (free) from Atlanta, GA. Both parties had outstanding customer service and I will do business with them again.

Thanks again ron for the lead,

-Kevin

guys, thanks for all your help..great information !!

This last weekend changed out my front shocks with Bilsteins on my 1999 ML430. Pretty easy job. I found it easier to totally remove the fender liners in order to get to the top nut on the shocks. BTW, the Bilsteins have a better design than the Arvins that were removed. The top of the piston on the Bilstein takes an allen wrench that prevents the piston from turning while you tighen the hex nut on the shock.

Planning on changing out the rears and replacing brake pads this next weekend.

I have a 99 ml 430 that has a BAD creaking problem with the rear shocks/struts. I am fully confident that I can change them out myself. My issue is which shock to use. Amazingly, at 60k miles, the original tags are still on the springs. I have the infamous 163-320-24-13 (aka L4000-159265) shocks on there, which go for almost $300 a piece even online. I would love to use the ones that people are picking up for less than $150 for the pair (say the 163-320-23-13). But my concerns is that there has to be something different between the two, otherwise, why would MB have seperate part numbers (different weight capacities, spring rates, bolt pattern, stud diameter, etc.)? I know that Wolfgang's page lists both as the "replacement" for the 99 ml 430, but what is the difference? I have a very early production (i.e. late 98) version. Can anyone allay my fears and save me $400+ on buying the same part numbers I have?

Man, if you can be a little patient I should be able to answer that question in a week or two. Just received the 163-320-23-13 today after ordering them 7/1/05...that is awesome service from Philip on FastLane..plus no charge for shipping. I paid $69.00 each which is simply amazing, IF they work for my early 99 ML430. According to my VIN, mine also calls for the 24's.

Could not get a definative answer on the differences between the 23's and 24's but it could possibly be only dampening rates or perhaps one is a tad longer than the other. Physically, I believe the two are identical and interchangeable. I'll let you know ASAP.......if they do work that means all four shocks AND rear springs can be changed out for a grand total on parts of approx $342.00 plus a few incidentals, such as self-locking nuts.

Pardon my ignorance, when you guys take out the old shocks, do you loosen the bolts (the bottom ones that connectds to the lower control arm) while the car is on the ground? or just jack it up and unbolt everything. I have a 98 ML and looking to replace it next year some time.

Springfever - that would be awesome info for me, thanks! Just to be sure, did the shocks you got the great deal on at Fastlane come complete with the springs installed? I assume they did, but just want to confirm.

DCF.........that is correct. Very nice units w/heavy duty springs...mb stamped on them in a couple of places. I would not want to try to replace the internal shock as others have done ... Only parts needed would be three locknuts per shock for the top.


Looks like standard labor to install at independent shops in the Atlanta area is $112.50 per side (1.5 hours @ $75.00/hr). For possible savings of $250.00, I plan to install this weekend. I'm hoping the only change between the 23's and 24's is internal and negligible. We'll see !!

Both front and rear shock r/r is done with vehicle jacked up and on secure stands, one axle at a time in my case.

I happened to stop by Atlanta Classic Cars this afternoon to pickup the radio removal tool I had ordered and just asked them if they had the 163-320-24-13 rear shock/spring assembly in stock.

Yep....while he pulled it out of inventory, I went and got one of mine out of the ML to make a direct comparison between it and the 163-320-23-13 I had ordered from Mercedesshop. BTW..factory part was $335.00....EACH!!

Happy to say they are dead-ringers !! Same amount of coils/thickness of coils/mounts....The ONLY difference I noticed was the lower mount on the dealer shock was threaded a little furthur up the bolt..maybe a 1/4 inch. Should not make any difference at all. Looks great for an inexpensive r/r this weekend...will let ya'll know when I finish this little project.

[QUOTE=Both front and rear shock r/r is done with vehicle jacked up and on secure stands, one axle at a time in my case.[/QUOTE]

So you take the top nuts first or the bottom first? I am still envisioning, when the truck is on the ground, the shock is compressed to the correct length between top mounting point and lower control arm. Wouldn't it be more difficult to remove it while vehicle is jacked up? I don't think the shock is easily compressed by hand? What am I missing?
Springerfever, I sent u a pm regarding the ipod connection you post on the other forum. I think you can still use the dead changer, just swap out the wire 1-3 from connector C with the blaupunk wires.

Attached are pictures showing the top/bottom of the 163-320-23-13 and the 163-320-24-13.

The only difference externally are the lower mounting studs on the shocks. The 23's lower shaft is not threaded all the way and has a slot for a screwdriver at the end; the 24's is threaded all the way and has a torx end to prevent the shaft from turning.

supradupe...

Somebody help me here, I'll be tackleing this project Saturday a.m.

The spring/shock combination comes 'preloaded' or pretensioned'.

Looking at previous posts looks like you remove top three first and then the bottom. You are correct in saying that with the weight of the body on the unit it is compressed, but I believe only lightly. My plan is to give lower mount a shot of WD40 and then loosen, with weight of vehicle on strut..then jack-up, remove wheels and fenderwells and give the three top nuts a shot of WD40. Remove those three and then start on bottom. I'll probably go ahead and remove the spare before doing anything else..you know in all the miles I've never had to actually use it !!

As I recall I did this job by having the rear end of the vehicle on jackstands first. Then remove the 3 nuts on top of strut mount. Then remove bolt on bottom of strut. I used impact wrenches for everything except the 3 bolt on top, so when I hit the bolt on the bottom it just spun off. If you do it by hand I think you can use an allen or torx wrench or something on the shaft to keep the shaft from spinning, while you turn the bolt with a wrench.

It's really not required to remove the spare if you have the right wrenches and sockets. I think those small nuts were 13 mm. So with a 1/4 drive ratchet and the right size socket you can get at the nuts, for the ones the socket doesn't work the right size ratcheting wrench will make you wonder how you could have done it very easily without it.

Once you have removed the fasteners holding the strut in you'll see the other part of the suspension you need to remove bolts from to get the strut out and the new one in, I think it’s called the wishbone.

I hope you have impact wrenches, or are pretty strong, because all the bolts are on pretty tight. I used a torque wrench to re-torque them and as I recall some of the torque values were between 80-110 ft lbs. I just remember I had a hard time tighten them, of course I was not at a good angle to be able to lean on the torque wrench and that didn't help.

Edited
Actually the torque values for the big stuff was between 63 to 100 ft. lbs.

Job Complete !!
 

Thanks to all the members that helped me with this project. Finished this morning and then in the afternoon went by a local TiresPlus to get tires rotated. Friendly mechanic was nice enough to retighen my work with a torque wrench. Ron..you are right 100 ft lbs is alot but his two foot torque wrench was up to the task !

Just one hitch with my installation and I've posted pictures at benzworld regarding the easy fix.....I can't get over how much better my ML rides !!Its like over time (226,000 miles in my case!) you don't notice the gradual change.

On to the brakes !!