I could use a little help here folks. I need to replace the rear pads and rotors on my '98 ML320. From reading other posts I think I can handle the pads. However, I haven't got enough information to feel confident about removing the rear rotors. When I remove the wheel I notice that in addition to the five threaded holes where the lug bolts attach that there is a small flat #5 allen head bolt which I assume needs to be removed to get the rotor off. After that I'm stuck. Does the rotor just pull off when this small bolt is removed? Does the large nut in the middle of the rotor need to be taken off or does the rotor come off around it? I assume there is a small drum type of brake shoe inside the rotor that the emergency brake engages so the E-brake must be off to get the rotor off. I've read some posts about whacking the rotor with a hammer. I certainly can't whack it from behind because there is a thin metal shroud protecting the rotor. Whacking it from the front I guess may just help dislodge the rotor. Anyway, help and or photos would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

Dennis,

You are correct. The #5 allen head needs to be removed as well as the the 'guide' at the bottom front side of the rotor.

The center nut need not be touched. Spray some WD-40 around the hub first to assist with easy removal. No hammers necessary.

To remove the #5, set the parking brake, loosen both #5's then release the parking brake.

You will need to rotate the wheel until you see the parking brake adjustment post 'wheel' through one of the lug bolt holes. Otherwise, you'll play hell getting the rear rotors off. Been there, done that. It is a good time to inspect (or replace) the parking brake drum hardware. The material from the shoes literally fell out upon removal of my rear rotors.

Just remember to readjust the parking brake post wheels after the rotor has been reinstalled. Simply rotate it with a long handled but small standard screwdriver until you barely hear the shoes begin to rub the drums as you spin the axle manually.

Bought my rear rotors (OE size made by Brembo), pads, and parking brake replacement hardware from Fastlane, VERY quick turnaround and competatively priced.

FR

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Fast Robert

That's a pretty bold statement.

It depends upon how long the rotors ahve been on and the conditions that the truck ahs been driven in.

A hammer is quite effective if the rust between the rotor and the hub has built up a bit.

Pete,


The aforementioned statement represents the experience I had and was not intended to discredit your experience(s). If it takes a hammer, then by all means do so.

Please note, your DIY write-up was used as a guide for changing rotors on our ML. Beer consumption was saved until after the post install test drive.

Since our ML was purchased second-hand, I had no idea how many miles were on the rotors over and above the 25K hard miles we've driven it. Hence the need to change.

Cheers,

FR

Someone posted a really good guide a while back with detailed photos. If you do a search I'm sure you'll find it. This post helped me locate the star wheels to back off on the parking brake. Other than that it's very straightforward, unless you choose to complicate matters by painting the non-friction areas of the rotors like I did. Great way to make a 20 minute job into a two hour job, but the rotors sure look better!

Good luck.

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Lenny

There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games. --Ernest Hemingway

'10 GL550/'04 BMW 545/'99 BMW 323/'98 ML320/'87 VW GTI (race)

Here's a link to the page I was referring to in the last post. A very thorough description. Enjoy!

http://www.petefagerlin.com/ML/brakes.htm

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Lenny

There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games. --Ernest Hemingway

'10 GL550/'04 BMW 545/'99 BMW 323/'98 ML320/'87 VW GTI (race)

Just wanted to thank everyone for the help and info on rotor and pad replacement on my '98 ML320. Parts were provided by Fastlane and were delivered promptly and for a great price. Total time required to do the rears was about 2hrs. Job was very straightforward and simple.
As recommended by folks in this forum I loosed the lug bolts before jacking up the truck.
I loosened the #5 allen with the e-brake on then released the e-brake and just pulled off the rotors.
I cleaned the new rotors with brake cleaner then installed.
Pad removal and installation was straightforward.
I would have felt like a real chump paying $400+ for the dealership to perform the same task.
I just bought this truck for $12K. It has 93K miles, had the 100K service completed at 75K (fuel filter, plugs, coolant, air mass flow sensor, etc). I had to put on tires and do the rear brakes. Front brakes and rotors look great. Just did my first oil change with 10-30 Mobile 1 ( another straight forward job, just needed to make a deflection shield from a piece of cardboard that the oil came in to keep oil from spilling on the control arm). Now I hope this truck will run for a while without needing service.

Did you have a check engine light on? Or Dealer just changed it for you? I don't think that is a regular service item...