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#61
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Quote:
Same thing recently happened to me. It's not fuel, it's the battery. Get the battery checked before it dies. Chris Warner, Lt, USAF AC-130 Pilot |
#62
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Chris
I know you're just trying to be helpful, here are a few observations: The post you replied to from G Benz was posted last year in January, so well over a year ago. Battery is dead by now if that's what it is. Bad fuel filters can cause the exact complaint G Benz is talking about, as the fuel pressure regulator is integral to the filter. I can take several cycles before enough pressure is built up to start the truck. A battery won't normally cause a complaint quite like this. If a battery problem did somehow cause this exact complaint, it would still be better to have the problem check out rather than throwing a part such as a battery at it. "MY truck didn't start right away because the battery was bad, so ALL ML's that start bad MUST need a new battery" is a rather crude diagnostic technique. Gilly
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#63
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For those who have updated to the larger filter...
I have upgraded to the larger filter on my 2000 ML430. Does the arrangement of the fuel lines look acceptable? I wanted to make sure before I seal up the end cap and install the rear seat.
Also, how in the world does one change this filter without taking the end cap off. It seems this is necessary because of the location of the return fuel line. Via the wheel well, it is behind the filter. Just thought I would ask for the next filter change. |
#64
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Yer losin' me here. The filter runs with the attachment pipes at the front and rear, they are both accessable from the wheel well just fine, may want to take the LR wheel and fender liner off, but other than that I don't see why you would need to access the top of the fuel pump to replace the fuel filter.....
Gilly
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#65
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Thanks for the response Gilly.
The ML Filter has 4 connections, in from fuel pump, out to fuel pump (return), feed to fuel rail, and the vent connection. As you look from the wheel side in the picture, you can see 3 of the 4 connections, the one you can not see is the return to the fuel pump. So how can one unhook the return line via the wheel well? |
#66
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I'd always remove the LR wheel and the fender liner, it's easy to do and gives more clearance, as you'd see if you did it. Some remove the LR wheel and use a chunk of wood between the liner and frame to push the liner up out of the way. I like just removing it and not pressing/stressing plastic panels. Takes 5 minutes extra to do it right.
Then, the hose clamp that holds the filter down, i totally unscrew it and pull the clamp off, you can thread it back around the "pedestal" that holds the filter off the frame quite easily to resecure the new filter. Then pull off the vent line, and unclip the front and rear plastic hose, you can then move the filter diagonally a little and unclip the "back" hose. Especially easy to do once the mod is done as the new updated hoses have a clip system that requires no special pliers to remove. The hoses that go to the pump assembly are free to pivot back and forth a little bit, you aren't stressing the connections at the pump when you do it that way. MB in no way intends the normal filter service to entail removing the rear seat and "end cap" as you call it; we call it either the pump access cover, or more casually as "the paint can lid". Gilly
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#67
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Gilly, thanks again for the response. I did remove the wheel and fender liner, the picture I posted is my vehicle. I can not imagine trying to do this just by prying and holding the liner out. From reading your response and doing this one time myself, I think the key is removing the clamp. When putting in the longer filter, I did undo it to fit it in. As for the name "end cap", I got that name from the WIS system. Must be a poor translation from German?
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#68
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I'd say so. WIS calls items certain things, then the parts book will use another term, then what "everybody" calls it.
Gilly
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