Here is a list of the problems I had with my ML 320 FYI:

Major repairs done under warranty:
sunroof motor replaced (sunroof stuck open) 2001
"machine gun" lock problem fixed 1999
fuel pump assembly replaced 2001
front and back suspension replaced (noises-leaky shocks) 2001
transfer case replaced (jerky shifting) 2002
rear liftgate seal replaced (was peeling off) 2001
rear external plexiglass trim replaced (crack) 2000

Major repairs after warranty expired:
steering assembly replaced (leak) $1200
bearing holding drive shaft replaced (high pitch noise) $400

Truck drives very well and I plan to keep it until it reaches 100k miles or even longer (unless it starts falling apart).

__________________
TJ

1998 ML 320
2002 Jag X-type

It sounds like it is falling apart.
I have a 2000 GM Silouette.
Less things have gone wrong with it than your Mercedes.
(70,000 miles)
I never thought GM would build a more reliable car/truck than Mercedes.

But when it comes to driving it.. the slush bucket van cant compare to my tight near 100,000 mile ML320.

__________________
Steve Danville
what i did myself.
CPS
rear shocks
MAS x 3.
SparkPlugs (twice)
Fuel pump & Filter
Window switch
replaced both failed horns with Honda horns.
Cleaned ERG Tube
Oil changes
Oil consumption Fix
Brake Pads
A/C Recharge
Anti-Freeze change X 2.
Front Shocks. Monroe. $90
Mercedes Warrenty Work:
Harmonic balancer,power steering clamp. Cat converters.Drive Shaft Bearing.s
Replaced Outer Lower Tie Rods and front lower ball joints at 156,000 miles

My early-production (Jan 1998) ML just hit 150K this week so I finally treated it to replacement of the squeaking rear shocks. Thought it might be nice to have the plugs replaced too - they were the originals. The older this vehicle gets the less trouble I have with it. Most major problems were covered by my 100K extended service contract. There have been a smattering of problems of some consequence since - harmonic damper needed replacing, door lock solenoid, plus the usual wear items - brakes, sway bar ends, and now the shocks & plugs. All told, though, the car is solid - no rust, no rattles, no leaks, gets about 20 mpg overall, leather seats not cracked. I love driving it. It was a pain when it was new b/o problems (which MB dealt with)but is actually a pleasure to own now in its old age. I'll keep it till it falls apart.

Glad to hear that.
I plan on driving mine past 150,000.
Replacing the rear shocks inst too bad for the home mechanic. Bilsteins $140 +- each. Mine started squeeking at 92,000.
Did you pay the dealer the big bucks ?

__________________
Steve Danville
what i did myself.
CPS
rear shocks
MAS x 3.
SparkPlugs (twice)
Fuel pump & Filter
Window switch
replaced both failed horns with Honda horns.
Cleaned ERG Tube
Oil changes
Oil consumption Fix
Brake Pads
A/C Recharge
Anti-Freeze change X 2.
Front Shocks. Monroe. $90
Mercedes Warrenty Work:
Harmonic balancer,power steering clamp. Cat converters.Drive Shaft Bearing.s
Replaced Outer Lower Tie Rods and front lower ball joints at 156,000 miles

I paid an independent shop big bucks but less than the dealer wanted; I draw the line at removing springs and don't have the tools. Used to replace strut shock cartridges myself in my Audi 5000s when I drove those, but that could be done from above with the car on its wheels. This is the second replacement of these shocks; the first was at around 80 or 85K and covered by the extended service contract. The fronts are original and show no wear that I can readily appreciate. Interestingly the "peripherals" on this car don't seem to be failing - alternator, water pump, radiator,etc - so I haven't had to do any wrench work on it at all; the Audis (I owned 3 of them at the same time at one point) were more of a constant project; always something going sour. The Jeep I owned prior to this leaked water and Chrysler could never fix it, so the ML is a great relief as far as I'm concerned.

I just scheduled a service visit to the local MB dealer for spark plugs ($270.60 labor + $117 parts) and a harmonic balancer update ($180 labor + ? parts) for my 98 ML 320. I read that replacing the plugs is kind of a PITA on this engine so I would rather have the dealer do it. I used to do it myself in my former cars (Volvo, Mazda, Nissan). I decided to replace the HB after all the discussion and horror stories I read in this forum.

Thank you guys!

I believe there is 71k on the clock as of today.

__________________
TJ

1998 ML 320
2002 Jag X-type

I understand there have been horrors w/ the harmonic balancer. I noticed some ticking that sounded like a belt but didn't disappear with application of belt dressing. I just happened to take a look at the "pulley" and noticed the protruding material long before it had a chance to begin wearing thru the timing belt cover - a lucky save. The service folks wouldn't let me drive it another mile once I showed it to them - told me they were quarantining my car.

71K is a little soon for plugs, isn't it? They are supposed to last 100K. Just got my vehicle back with the new plugs at 150K - feels maybe a tiny bit smoother. I was more concerned that if I didn't get 'em out now they might never come loose, and once they'd been loosened most of the work was done so I had them replaced into the bargain.

I decided to do it due to "engine running time" not actual mileage. There is a lot of city driving involved in my SUV and I guess the equivalent of 100k of highway driving is close. I read that the plugs may seize after some years of service so I wanted to be on the safe side and do it before the summer.

__________________
TJ

1998 ML 320
2002 Jag X-type

movpe: Spark plugs are due for service after 4 years if you don't reach 100,000 miles first, so the timing was right.

Our ML320 is also a 1998, with 122,000 miles. We've had it from 63,000 and had the following problems:

battery dead 64K
turn signal switch stuck 72K
low range failed, not repaired 74K
harmonic balancer failed 77K
replaced leaking pinion shaft seals 107K
replaced driveshaft center bearing 110K
repaired cracked exhaust manifold 121K

Not a stellar record by any stretch. We do know people with Chevies that are more reliable, though personally I won't drive one. On the other hand, we know one person (only one) who had a Honda that was a lemon. The Mercedes doesn't live up to its reputation as a reliable car, but it drives better than most, and is still very solid after all these miles. I really think it may go 300K. Glad to hear they get better with age !

__________________
Lenny

There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games. --Ernest Hemingway

'10 GL550/'04 BMW 545/'99 BMW 323/'98 ML320/'87 VW GTI (race)

< turn signal switch stuck 72K
low range failed, not repaired 74K
harmonic balancer failed 77K
replaced leaking pinion shaft seals 107K
replaced driveshaft center bearing 110K
repaired cracked exhaust manifold 121K>>

That's quite a list of early failures; my battery lasted about 125000 miles but I do mostly highway driving which is easy on it. Did have the driveshaft bearing go, though; became noisy. Your list is a perfect argument for buying extended service contracts on new and complex vehicles such as the ML. My dealer always gave me a loaner to use and the repairs up to 100K cost me nearly nothing so though I had a range of failures up to that point I didn't feel the pain of them acutely at all. I would imagine the newer MLs have had the bugs worked out of them. I think the basic design is sound but the execution was less so.

Service at the MB Dealer:

Replaced spark plugs ($373.80) and airfilter ($18.50) - did not notice any change in performance but had to do it as preventive maintenance.

Replaced harmonic balancer as a precaution (cost $180.40 labor + $55.53 parts) The new HB part number was 112-035-13-00

All prices before tax.


RUST QUESTION:

I got three rust spots (dime size or smaller "bubbles" underneath the paint - paint did not flake off yet): 1. edge of fender near the front left headlight 2. front edge of right front door. 3. front edge of gas tank door

Any advice what to do with them?

__________________
TJ

1998 ML 320
2002 Jag X-type

Forgot to post that I got a new ML 350 as a loaner from the dealer.

I did not notice any difference in driving it when compared to my 98 ML 320. Plus I did not like the "cheap" looking light gray interior of the ML 350 (my ML 320 has dark grey interior - looks much better IMHO).

I also do not like the new wheel styling of the new MLs. Outward bulging spokes don't look good on this truck. They remind me of buses. MB needs to hire an Italian designer to get some styling suggestions...

__________________
TJ

1998 ML 320
2002 Jag X-type

I don't like the rear seat design of the newer MLs. Instead of three fully formed seats there are two, plus a flattish armrest or whatever in the middle instead of a real seatback. Wheels don't do much for me either, as you mentioned.

Just noticed a spot on the garage floor today, looked under the truck and found that there seems to be a leak from a seal in the front differential

ZF - has a part # on it 4460-310-010

The leak appers to be where a shaft leading to the front right wheel connects to this box.

Anybody had such a problem?

Any idea what the fix costs? Do they replace the seals or the whole unit?

Here in the States most garages just replace entire components and drive the cost of repairs up...

Thanks in advance!

__________________
TJ

1998 ML 320
2002 Jag X-type

I had the seal on my transfer case start leaking at approximately 40,000 miles on my 2000 ML320. They replaced the seal (not the whole transfer case) under warranty.

Seems like this is a common occurrence and I am wondering if those who had transfer case failures (where the entire transfer case needed replacement) had the seal go first and did not notice it until vibrations from the transfer case started to appear.