My 1998 ML320's battery is dead.

I disconnected the cables and proceeded to remove the battery but could not locate the bolts to loosen the battery for removal. I looked and looked but could not locate any removal bolts? The battery appears to be held in by a bracket going over the top of the battery with a plastic clip.

I would greatly appreciate any advice on how I get this battery out. Also, should I go with the MB or Sears battery to replace it with?

Thanks for the suggestions.

John

Recommending the MB battery. Others will disagree.

Remove the rubber strip surrounding the battery box.
Remove the hard plastic battery box surround (partition). You'll need to open the small door (it unsnaps to open) and then you can pull the positive (front) cable out of the slot in the plastic partition. Sometimes you'll need to remove the 10mm nut to remove the small positive cable from the larger one.
Then remove the black plastic block from under the strap that crosses over the battery, it'll slip right out. The only actual retainer is at the FRONT of the metal partition. The front of the partition bows out slightly and obscured it slightly from view, it's a 13mm bolt. After that's removed, you can unclip the strap, it hooks to the battery tray on the fender side of the battery tray. Just push down slightly on the strap and push the side of the strap that faces the fender towards the fender and it'll unhook. Then you may also want to pull the auxillary coolant pump off of it's bracket, which is attached to the inner side of the metal wall, it pulls straight up. At this point you should be able to tilt the entire metal wall forward and pull the metal wall out of it's 2 engagement points on the front end, where the bolt was screwed in, and the battery can be removed.

Gilly

__________________
Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay

Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold)

Gilly:

Many thanks for the advice. I'll give it a try tomorrow after work.

Also, thanks for the advice on the many other posts. Your input has been greatly appreciated! Despite some early problems under warranty, I have been very happy with my 1999 ML with 62,000. Some of the newer SUV's are nice, but my original reasons why I purchased this one are still valid (i.e., decent mileage 18/23, three rolls of seats, 5 speed trans and safe/solid ride for the family). Mercedes certainly led the way for the others to follow.

Best regards,

John

John
A few other things:
The 99 will have the stabilty system, so you'll need to resynchronize the steering wheel angle sensor, to do this, when you start up the truch you simple turn the steering wheel lock to lock a few times until the warning light goes out in the dash.

You'll want to make sure you know the radio code, to get that working again. The radio presets usually are "remembered" and won't need to set those again.

And most 99's had the trip computer, so you'll need to set the date in the trip computer, and of course the clock will need to be set.

Let me know how it goes.

Gilly

__________________
Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay

Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold)

Why do you recommend the MB battery. Is it the size and fit issue? There are other good batteries available on the market. Is the MB battery that good?

__________________
Paul 1987 300 SDL; 2000 ML; '69 MGB; '68 VW Fastback

No, no. I just in general prefer the MB batteries, just seem to have alot less problems in the long run with them, and yes they seem to fit better, fairly good warranty also, and NO BS if it does fail early, which they CAN do, but seems to be at a lesser rate than others. Maybe it's just that some of the other shops installing the other batteries are afraid to actually test anything on an MB so they end up with an incorrect diagnosis on the battery, that could be the problem I suppose also.
But I wouldn't specifically slam another battery manufacturer. As has been mentioned on other threads, there aren't all that many companies that actually manufacter batteries. I know MB has used a few different companies to make theirs, and a few of them kinda sucked. I guess having the blue star on the battery just makes me all warm and fuzzy......
Anyways, that's my recommendation and I'm stickin' to it.
Gilly

__________________
Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay

Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold)

Last night, I read my roadside service booklet. Afterwards, I learned that the battery service call was covered. This morning, I called in the battery replacement order. Within 30 mins. the MB tech was onsite and promptly replaced the battery. Total cost was $127. I asked him about other using non-MB batteries, his response was that the MB battery fits better in the holder. The $127 was worth it since it also included the installation on-site and displosal of the battery. As Gilly stated, after the battery was installed the steering and radio code had to be reset too. I guess the roadside warranty booklet is one of those things that we all should read. The program is for the life of the vehicle and includes: gas, tire fixes and battery jumping.

I'm back on the road again!

John