ML320 Oil Level Sensor (98) - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

arkie · #1 07-06-2004, 11:14 PM

Has anybody ever had problems with their oil level sensor, and have they replaced it. My 98 ML320 will blink between "OIL HI" and "-2.0L" everytime I drive it. I took it to the shop, and they want $460 plus an oil change to fix it - says it needs a new oil level sensor. I thought about getting one and installing it myself. Has anybody tackled this one - any special tools or techniques needed?

Ron in SC · #2 07-07-2004, 07:41 AM

I think that repair has been done by others. Maybe a search will help you find the thread or threads that discuss the issues you raised.

Gilly · #3 07-08-2004, 05:05 PM

Done lots. Need Loctite 5900 to reseal pan. It may be a bit easier to do this at home, as you can let the oil drip out overnight, the 5900 you aren't supposed to allow to get oil contaminated until after a few hours. It helps if the engine can be lifted a little from on top, just a 1/2" helps alot, but if you are good at puzzles, you can do it without lifting.

Gilly

DUTCH · #4 02-21-2005, 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gilly

Done lots. Need Loctite 5900 to reseal pan.

Gilly

Not easy to find this stuff. Tried three auto parts stores in Atlanta burbs with no success.

Finally, a web search turned it up at only two locations.

Gotta love (not) my local dealer's parts department. They charge $7.20 for the oil level sensor sealing o-ring. It's available in Europe for the equivalent of US$2.80 and at a parts supply in the US for $3.14. I guess the dealor needs to pay for their fancy new facility.

Off topic, I drove past the old MB Autowerks shop yesterday. It is now being used as a church. That's a contrast!

Gilly · #5 02-21-2005, 05:27 PM

In regards to the 5900, what I'd recommend if you have the luxury of time is to let the lower pan set up overnight before pouring in the oil. Another thing that helps is you'll notice the oil constantly dripping from the windage area (rear half) of the pan, if you can let this continue to drip for a few hours before attempting to put on the lower pan it'll make for a better job, then like I say put on the lower pan and let it sit at least several hours or preferably overnight before pouring in the oil.

Gilly

pexcellence · #6 02-21-2005, 05:47 PM

Let me get this right. One need the locite 5900 to seal the upper oil pan to the lower pan? There is no gasket involved?

John

Gilly · #7 02-21-2005, 05:53 PM

Yes, the whole pan is sealed with Loctite 5900, lower pan (the small square one) to the upper pan, also the upper pan, if you needed to take that off, to the block. Very few problems with it if everything is assembled clean and at least a few hours is allowed before filling with oil and running the engine.
Gilly

DUTCH · #8 02-21-2005, 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gilly

In regards to the 5900, what I'd recommend if you have the luxury of time is to let the lower pan set up overnight before pouring in the oil. Another thing that helps is you'll notice the oil constantly dripping from the windage area (rear half) of the pan, if you can let this continue to drip for a few hours before attempting to put on the lower pan it'll make for a better job, then like I say put on the lower pan and let it sit at least several hours or preferably overnight before pouring in the oil.

Gilly

Since it's not a daily driver, it would be no problem to let the sucker drain disassembled overnight to minimize that back edge drippage; and to let it set another overnight after reassembly before filling it with oil. No commercial enterprise could afford to do that, but doing it at home in an enclosed garage
makes it easy.

(Btw, how difficult is it to break the pan free when disassembling it??)

I did the same thing when I repaired front end collision damage myself. Having the time and the garage enabled me to do it right (found hidden damage that could have been easily glossed over or neglected in a money making situation) - probably better than the average body shop working against the ticking $$ clock.

Gilly · #9 02-21-2005, 08:22 PM

Dutch, it's usually not too bad to break free, maybe a little tougher than you'd expect though. There are 2 tabs on the left side of the pan (one on the upper and one on the lower part) where you can insert a prybar and twist to get it to break loose.

Gilly

Head Hunter · #10 08-15-2004, 06:36 PM

I noticed this TWICE after oil changes I performed on my 98' mL320 in which both times I did NOT replace the seals on the filter shaft when replacing filter. When these rubber seals (approx the diameter of a penny) start to dry out they lose their compression and oil subsequently becomes trapped and released, over and over, in the top of the filter shaft. Thus the erratic level readings.

Lesson: Dont dismiss the rubber washers when changing your filter. Wonder how often this is happens at your local Jiffy Lube???