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			#1  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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				Bathtub replacement question
			 
			
			
			CMAC's toilet thread made me think of a problem I'll confront someday.  I have a rental property on which the tub drain area had a section of cast iron broken off when I purchased the property. It had been repaired with plumber's putty but I have since done a more permanent repair with epoxy.  However, one of these days, I;ll have to replace it. It is tight against one wall with a partition built at the other end to create an enclosure.  The toilet is about 8 inches from the tub at one end.  Has anyone removed and replaced a tub in this kind of configuration without having to tear out the partition wall?  Will the tub tilt up for replacement?  I know I'll have the remove the drywall around the tub but it is in need of replacement anyway.  If it won't come out easily, I'll consider an acrylic tub liner.
			
				
			
		 
		
		
		
			
		
		
		
		
		
			
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	1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13  | 
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			#2  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			Don't know about the old cast tubs, but the steel tubs are basically open on the ends.  The tub needs to come out of the space about 4" or so and then the entire unit can be tilted up in the air, once the sheetrock is off the studs.
			
				
			
		 
		
		
		
			
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
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			#3  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			it might be worth considering refinishing it. 
		
		
		
			
		
		
		
		
		
			depends on the condition of surrounding finishes. tom w 
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	[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.  [SIGPIC]..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.  | 
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			#4  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			Even the cast iron ones are built the same way. There is a flange where the tub meets the wall and typically the sheetrock or tile backer board go over this flange to prevent water from going over the flange. The flange which is part of the tub, should not be taller than 3/4" or so. When replacing the tile, it is a good idea to leave about an 1/8" space between the deck of the tub and the tile. Fill this gap completely with silicon caulk and it will allow the tub and the tiled walls above to move indepently of each other. This will allow the joint between the tile and the tub which is the most vulnerable area to leak, to maintain a good seal.
			
				
			
		 
		
		
		
			
		
		
		
		
		
			
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	Doug 1987 300TD x 3 2005 E320CDI  | 
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			#5  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			My parents have a 1910 house in North Carolina.  They redid an upstairs bathroom a couple of years back, and the contractor took a 14" gas-powered cut-off saw and cut the tub in two pieces to get it out (they went back with a tiled in shower and bench.  I'm guessing he was wearing adequate hearing protection.
			
				
			
		 
		
		
		
			
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
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			#6  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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		 Quote: 
	
 I took a two pound mallet to ours and threw the pieces out the window into the dumpster. The mallet is also good for cast pipes. I wore eye protection but no hearing protection. 
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	Doug 1987 300TD x 3 2005 E320CDI  | 
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			#7  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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		 To a cast iron tub? You must have been real mad at it  
			
				
			
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