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  #46  
Old 08-04-2009, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by lorainfurniture View Post
No need for all of that. The timer will click eventually, im 99% sure. I have rarely come across a ref that had a stuck contact like that.
Now I'm confused. So how would I know if it's bad if it's going to click eventually?

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Originally Posted by lorainfurniture View Post
The timer test is done while the timer is installed.

Im starting to believe that you dont have a defrost problem. Were your evap coils covered with frost? Like covered to the point that it would restrict air flow?
The coils had some visible ice between the fins near the top. But I would estimate it was less than 15% of the surface area had obvious ice. It was in the top part of the coil on the sides. There was also a small amount of ice on the floor of the freezer.

Not sure about frost on the walls of the freezer or on the evaporator coil. I am afraid I futzed around with the drip pan for probably 15 minutes after shutting down the power. (It had a small amount of water and crap in it and I unbolted it, drained and cleaned it.) By the time I had my head in the freezer, any frost on the walls may have melted. And it took me another 10 minutes or so to remove the icemaker and take the rear panel off.

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  #47  
Old 08-04-2009, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by sunedog View Post

Not sure about frost on the walls of the freezer or on the evaporator coil. I am afraid I futzed around with the drip pan for probably 15 minutes after shutting down the power. (It had a small amount of water and crap in it and I unbolted it, drained and cleaned it.) By the time I had my head in the freezer, any frost on the walls may have melted. And it took me another 10 minutes or so to remove the icemaker and take the rear panel off.
That's not a defrost problem. When they don't defrost, the entire evaporator is one huge block of ice and it takes about two hours with a hair dryer to melt it down...........or the fridge needs to sit overnight and the floor gets flooded...............
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  #48  
Old 08-04-2009, 03:02 PM
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Sorry, im over-explaining.... The timer is bad if it takes more than 21-25 mins to "click out" of defrost. If it was anything else in the timer, it would start blowing breakers, or not running AT ALL.

The only thing to test on the timer is the time.

At this point, let the ref defrost completely. Plug the ref back in, and let it run for 24hrs.

After the ref reaches temp. start clicking the timer.
the ref WILL shut down within 360 degrees of rotation.
check time
check for heat.
the ref will click out, check time again. 21 mins?
thats the defrost cycle..... its harder to explain than it is to do..

sorry if I was confusing my literary skills are a bit shabby
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  #49  
Old 08-04-2009, 03:04 PM
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Im starting to believe that you had a ice blockage on the top of your evap coils.... your ref might just start working...
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  #50  
Old 08-04-2009, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by lorainfurniture View Post
Sorry, im over-explaining....

sorry if I was confusing my literary skills are a bit shabby
It's not you. I just need an idiot's guide to fridge repair. You're unknowingly writing one bit by bit. Thanks again to you and all the rest for your support. I'll keep you updated.
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  #51  
Old 08-04-2009, 04:19 PM
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It's not you. I just need an idiot's guide to fridge repair. You're unknowingly writing one bit by bit. Thanks again to you and all the rest for your support. I'll keep you updated.
There must be a book in print:

Fridges for dummies.
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  #52  
Old 08-05-2009, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by lorainfurniture View Post
Sorry, im over-explaining.... The timer is bad if it takes more than 21-25 mins to "click out" of defrost. If it was anything else in the timer, it would start blowing breakers, or not running AT ALL.

The only thing to test on the timer is the time.

At this point, let the ref defrost completely. Plug the ref back in, and let it run for 24hrs.

After the ref reaches temp. start clicking the timer.
the ref WILL shut down within 360 degrees of rotation.
check time
check for heat.
the ref will click out, check time again. 21 mins?
thats the defrost cycle..... its harder to explain than it is to do..

sorry if I was confusing my literary skills are a bit shabby
Update: Understood your intructions explicitly (Thanks!) and followed them. Bad news is that my defrost system seems to be working perfectly. I made it engage defrost mode with a screwdriver, verified the heat bar got hot (red hot -- that was a surprise), and the timer took over and ended the defrost cycle about 24 minutes after it started.

The fridge was running for 24 hours before I did this experiment and my digital thermometer said it was 16 degrees in the freezer when I started.

So do you think I have a problem in the sealed system or compressor? Low freon? The fridge is less than 9 years old.

Interestingly enough, I saw the exact same Fridgedare at Lowes today for $448. It was identical.
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  #53  
Old 08-06-2009, 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by sunedog View Post
my digital thermometer said it was 16 degrees in the freezer when I started.
...........and you believe you have a problem..........because??

16 degrees is a bit high but not terrible. What's the setting on the thermostat?
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  #54  
Old 08-06-2009, 08:28 AM
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...........and you believe you have a problem..........because??
Food in freezer was not frozen solid before I started. Beer in fridge was not very cold.

I think you told me two hours after defrosting, put the thermometer directly in front of the fan and it should read 0 degrees.

I thought freezers should be between 0 and 8 degrees. Just checked on the way out the door and freezer was 23 degrees. Perhaps it recently went through defrost cycle.

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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
..16 degrees is a bit high but not terrible. What's the setting on the thermostat?
Both fridge and freezers are set to "coldest."
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Last edited by Brian Carlton; 08-06-2009 at 09:33 AM.
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  #55  
Old 08-06-2009, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
...........and you believe you have a problem..........because??
Food in freezer was not frozen solid before I started. Beer in fridge was not very cold.

I think you told me two hours after defrosting, put the thermometer directly in front of the fan and it should read 0 degrees.

I thought freezers should be between 0 and 8 degrees. Just checked on the way out the door and freezer was 23 degrees. Perhaps it recently went through defrost cycle.



Both fridge and freezers are set to "coldest."

0 degrees is ideal..........I'm not sure that too many of them actually achieve it. 16 is higher than desired, for sure but it will still keep food frozen.

As for setting both freezer and refrigerator on max cold, most fridges divert air from the freezer to cool the refrigerator. Therefore, either the freezer can be the coldest possible or the refrigerator can be the coldest possible..............but not both. You might get some benefits on the refrigerator temperature if you set the freezer in a mid position and leave the fridge on max cold.

In any case, you've exhausted your options with the defroster.........it's doing the proper job. I don't think you've got other options unless the thermostat is NG. Does the compressor run 100% of the time? If it does, the game is over. If it doesn't...........and shuts off periodically (NOT COUNTING THE DEFROST CYCLE)...........a replacement thermostat would cure your issue.
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  #56  
Old 08-06-2009, 10:43 AM
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Brian is right, There is a chance that the thermostat could be bad. If the ref is running non-stop, I would lean more towards a recharge.

I wouldnt get disappointed if you have to recharge the unit, It will probably last another few years.

Just to rule it out, your ref is not near any source of heat? I think I remember you saying its in the garage? they start to lose cooling capacity in 95+ environment.
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  #57  
Old 08-06-2009, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by lorainfurniture View Post
Brian is right, There is a chance that the thermostat could be bad. If the ref is running non-stop, I would lean more towards a recharge.
I am not 100% sure, but I seem to recall hearing it cycle periodically. I will pay attention to it to see if it does. If it does, I will probably go ahead and replace the thermostat because it is cheap ($13.85 from repairclininc.com).

Quote:
Originally Posted by lorainfurniture View Post
I wouldnt get disappointed if you have to recharge the unit, It will probably last another few years.
How much would you guess a service call to re-charge would cost?

Quote:
Originally Posted by lorainfurniture View Post
Just to rule it out, your ref is not near any source of heat? I think I remember you saying its in the garage? they start to lose cooling capacity in 95+ environment.
No, it is in a finished basement (in condiitoned space).
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  #58  
Old 08-06-2009, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by sunedog View Post
I am not 100% sure, but I seem to recall hearing it cycle periodically.
You'll need to determine if it's cycling periodically in random fashion............or if it entered its defrost cycle. If it's the former, then replace the thermostat.
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  #59  
Old 08-06-2009, 11:09 AM
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If i remember, Im pretty sure your defrost timer is 10hr/21 minute. So, its safe to say it will shut down twice a day for sure.

One thing you can check is the evap coils, with proper charge, the coils should be evenly frosted throughout. Otherwise, it will usually frost up in one spot.
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  #60  
Old 08-06-2009, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lorainfurniture View Post
One thing you can check is the evap coils, with proper charge, the coils should be evenly frosted throughout. Otherwise, it will usually frost up in one spot.
It was definitely NOT frosted throughout. There was ice only in the top inch or so on both sides.

I'm still curious how much you think a service call to re-charge will cost.

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