Fridge Not Cold -- Worth Trying to Fix? - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

kerry · #1 08-03-2009, 11:18 PM

In my experience with rental properties, simple, non-automatic defrost fridges are the longest lasting since they have less electrical and moving parts.

Brian Carlton · #2 08-03-2009, 11:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerry

In my experience with rental properties, simple, non-automatic defrost fridges are the longest lasting since they have less electrical and moving parts.

..............until one of the idiots decides to defrost the freezer with a knife............

kerry · #3 08-03-2009, 11:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

..............until one of the idiots decides to defrost the freezer with a knife............

You had that same tenant too?

Brian Carlton · #4 08-03-2009, 11:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerry

You had that same tenant too?

............and a similar refrigerator............they never learn.............

pawoSD · #5 08-03-2009, 11:47 PM

Psh, a landlord that supplies such a low end junky fridge deserves to have that happen! I am a renter right now, and can't stand cheapskate land lords! My current place has a real nice and only few year old GE fridge.

My air conditioner, while still functional, uses energy like a pig (14,000btus output, but uses 2,500 watts of power.

) Its from the late 60's....and get this, its made by Borg Warner! Sound familiar? I thought that was pretty neat!

New ones with that output run on 110 power and use about 1400 watts....then again they probably don't last 40+ years either...

kerry · #6 08-03-2009, 11:52 PM

They're the 240d of fridges. I've offered my tenants frostfree fridges for an increase in rent but no one has wanted to take me up on that one.

lorainfurniture · #7 08-04-2009, 11:14 AM

Also, Everything repairable on that ref is either in the compressor area or behind the cover in the freezer compartment. Also the thermostat area. the back of that ref does not come off.

sunedog · #8 08-04-2009, 11:42 AM

Eugene -- Thank you so much. Can't wait to get home to do the diagnosis. Glad I didn't start unbolting things on the back looking for the thermostat timer.

Oh... a question: If I click to my heart's content on the timer and nothing happens, then can I assume the timer is bad? Will it be obvious if the timer is working (i.e. the evaporator fan in the freezer stops and the heater starts)? Sorry if I am belaboring the obvious.

I have a multimeter. I know I should be able to confirm the timer is bad using it. But am I looking for continuity? From what terminal to what terminal? Do I check whlie the timer is still installed and wired up or do I remove it for this test?

lorainfurniture · #9 08-04-2009, 12:52 PM

No need for all of that. The timer will click eventually, im 99% sure. I have rarely come across a ref that had a stuck contact like that.

The timer test is done while the timer is installed.

Im starting to believe that you dont have a defrost problem. Were your evap coils covered with frost? Like covered to the point that it would restrict air flow?

sunedog · #10 08-04-2009, 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lorainfurniture

No need for all of that. The timer will click eventually, im 99% sure. I have rarely come across a ref that had a stuck contact like that.

Now I'm confused. So how would I know if it's bad if it's going to click eventually?

Quote:

Originally Posted by lorainfurniture

The timer test is done while the timer is installed.

Im starting to believe that you dont have a defrost problem. Were your evap coils covered with frost? Like covered to the point that it would restrict air flow?

The coils had some visible ice between the fins near the top. But I would estimate it was less than 15% of the surface area had obvious ice. It was in the top part of the coil on the sides. There was also a small amount of ice on the floor of the freezer.

Not sure about frost on the walls of the freezer or on the evaporator coil. I am afraid I futzed around with the drip pan for probably 15 minutes after shutting down the power. (It had a small amount of water and crap in it and I unbolted it, drained and cleaned it.) By the time I had my head in the freezer, any frost on the walls may have melted. And it took me another 10 minutes or so to remove the icemaker and take the rear panel off.

Brian Carlton · #11 08-04-2009, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sunedog

Not sure about frost on the walls of the freezer or on the evaporator coil. I am afraid I futzed around with the drip pan for probably 15 minutes after shutting down the power. (It had a small amount of water and crap in it and I unbolted it, drained and cleaned it.) By the time I had my head in the freezer, any frost on the walls may have melted. And it took me another 10 minutes or so to remove the icemaker and take the rear panel off.

That's not a defrost problem. When they don't defrost, the entire evaporator is one huge block of ice and it takes about two hours with a hair dryer to melt it down...........or the fridge needs to sit overnight and the floor gets flooded...............

lorainfurniture · #12 08-04-2009, 03:02 PM

Sorry, im over-explaining.... The timer is bad if it takes more than 21-25 mins to "click out" of defrost. If it was anything else in the timer, it would start blowing breakers, or not running AT ALL.

The only thing to test on the timer is the time.

At this point, let the ref defrost completely. Plug the ref back in, and let it run for 24hrs.

After the ref reaches temp. start clicking the timer.
the ref WILL shut down within 360 degrees of rotation.
check time
check for heat.
the ref will click out, check time again. 21 mins?
thats the defrost cycle..... its harder to explain than it is to do..

sorry if I was confusing my literary skills are a bit shabby

sunedog · #13 08-04-2009, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lorainfurniture

Sorry, im over-explaining....

sorry if I was confusing my literary skills are a bit shabby

It's not you. I just need an idiot's guide to fridge repair. You're unknowingly writing one bit by bit. Thanks again to you and all the rest for your support. I'll keep you updated.

Brian Carlton · #14 08-04-2009, 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sunedog

It's not you. I just need an idiot's guide to fridge repair. You're unknowingly writing one bit by bit. Thanks again to you and all the rest for your support. I'll keep you updated.

There must be a book in print:

Fridges for dummies.

sunedog · #15 08-05-2009, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lorainfurniture

Sorry, im over-explaining.... The timer is bad if it takes more than 21-25 mins to "click out" of defrost. If it was anything else in the timer, it would start blowing breakers, or not running AT ALL.

The only thing to test on the timer is the time.

At this point, let the ref defrost completely. Plug the ref back in, and let it run for 24hrs.

After the ref reaches temp. start clicking the timer.
the ref WILL shut down within 360 degrees of rotation.
check time
check for heat.
the ref will click out, check time again. 21 mins?
thats the defrost cycle..... its harder to explain than it is to do..

sorry if I was confusing my literary skills are a bit shabby

Update: Understood your intructions explicitly (Thanks!) and followed them. Bad news is that my defrost system seems to be working perfectly. I made it engage defrost mode with a screwdriver, verified the heat bar got hot (red hot -- that was a surprise), and the timer took over and ended the defrost cycle about 24 minutes after it started.

The fridge was running for 24 hours before I did this experiment and my digital thermometer said it was 16 degrees in the freezer when I started.

So do you think I have a problem in the sealed system or compressor? Low freon? The fridge is less than 9 years old.

Interestingly enough, I saw the exact same Fridgedare at Lowes today for $448. It was identical.