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  #31  
Old 07-31-2009, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
Nothing crucial at the moment. It is missing the drawer that goes under the burners.
Sometimes I see them when im unloading scrap at the scrap yard. Email me a pic of your stove, along with dimensions of the pan and I will keep my eyes peeled. eugene@lorainfurniture.com

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  #32  
Old 07-31-2009, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
Oten time you can unscrew a panel in the freezer to look at the coils. If they're covered in frost and ice, the defrost system is not working. Also there is often a fan to move cold air from the freezer to the frig. That fan can also often be observed by removing a panel.
I used to have an old frig with a manual defrost system. Button inside the door. Push it to go thru a defrost cycle. Liked it.
I used to have a gas refridgerator with the freezer on the top, used ot use boiling pots of water to defrost it, when portable hair dryers where invented I used that. Yes I am old.
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  #33  
Old 08-03-2009, 08:03 PM
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Hi folks. I got a chance to start working on this tonight. There was some frost in the freezer. I emptied the unit and unlugged it. Took out the icemaker and rear panel in the freezer. There was a little ice on the evaporator coil. Not a lot, but definitely some. Some of the fins were bent as well. I straightened those.

So I suspect a defrost system failure. I can locate the thermostat and the heating rod. But can you tell me where the thermostat timer is on this model Kenmore/Fridgedaire model 25370822001)? I don't want to take the back cover off unless I have to because the condensor coil is on the back.

Once I get to the timer, I already have some troubleshooting tips. But I'm interested in any other insight you can provide. TIA.
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Last edited by sunedog; 08-03-2009 at 09:10 PM.
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  #34  
Old 08-03-2009, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mistress View Post
I used to have a gas refridgerator
Were you Amish?
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  #35  
Old 08-03-2009, 10:02 PM
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The sure don't make stuff like they used to. My parents have a standard Frigidaire (made in MI/USA!!) fridge that is 22 years old, the thing STILL works fine, defrost and everything....it has never failed...ever. Even the fan for air circulation still blows strong...truly amazing. The door seal even still seals tight and has no cracking.
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  #36  
Old 08-03-2009, 10:18 PM
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In my experience with rental properties, simple, non-automatic defrost fridges are the longest lasting since they have less electrical and moving parts.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
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1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
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  #37  
Old 08-03-2009, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
In my experience with rental properties, simple, non-automatic defrost fridges are the longest lasting since they have less electrical and moving parts.
..............until one of the idiots decides to defrost the freezer with a knife............
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  #38  
Old 08-03-2009, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
..............until one of the idiots decides to defrost the freezer with a knife............
You had that same tenant too?
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #39  
Old 08-03-2009, 10:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
You had that same tenant too?
............and a similar refrigerator............they never learn.............
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  #40  
Old 08-03-2009, 10:47 PM
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Psh, a landlord that supplies such a low end junky fridge deserves to have that happen! I am a renter right now, and can't stand cheapskate land lords! My current place has a real nice and only few year old GE fridge.


My air conditioner, while still functional, uses energy like a pig (14,000btus output, but uses 2,500 watts of power. ) Its from the late 60's....and get this, its made by Borg Warner! Sound familiar? I thought that was pretty neat! New ones with that output run on 110 power and use about 1400 watts....then again they probably don't last 40+ years either...
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  #41  
Old 08-03-2009, 10:52 PM
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They're the 240d of fridges. I've offered my tenants frostfree fridges for an increase in rent but no one has wanted to take me up on that one.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #42  
Old 08-04-2009, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunedog View Post
Hi folks. I got a chance to start working on this tonight. There was some frost in the freezer. I emptied the unit and unlugged it. Took out the icemaker and rear panel in the freezer. There was a little ice on the evaporator coil. Not a lot, but definitely some. Some of the fins were bent as well. I straightened those.

So I suspect a defrost system failure. I can locate the thermostat and the heating rod. But can you tell me where the thermostat timer is on this model Kenmore/Fridgedaire model 25370822001)? I don't want to take the back cover off unless I have to because the condensor coil is on the back.

Once I get to the timer, I already have some troubleshooting tips. But I'm interested in any other insight you can provide. TIA.
Hello,

Your defrost timer is right next to your thermo knob in the ref compartment. You dont need to remove to test, take a flat head screwdriver and turn the timer through the little access hole. you will hear "click, click click, CLICK, and at that point the ref should shut down. It might take quite a few clicks before it shuts down. BTW, the fridge must be running while you do this.

Take a look at the clock when you do this. your ref calls for a 21 minute defrost cycle. If it goes more than 30 mins, you need a new timer.

You should notice that the heaters will turn on, it takes about 3-5 mins for it to warm up, then shut down after all the frost is melted.

Pay attention to the water, make sure it is draining down to the pan mounted on top of the compressor.

Let me know what happens.
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  #43  
Old 08-04-2009, 10:14 AM
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Also, Everything repairable on that ref is either in the compressor area or behind the cover in the freezer compartment. Also the thermostat area. the back of that ref does not come off.
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  #44  
Old 08-04-2009, 10:42 AM
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Eugene -- Thank you so much. Can't wait to get home to do the diagnosis. Glad I didn't start unbolting things on the back looking for the thermostat timer.

Oh... a question: If I click to my heart's content on the timer and nothing happens, then can I assume the timer is bad? Will it be obvious if the timer is working (i.e. the evaporator fan in the freezer stops and the heater starts)? Sorry if I am belaboring the obvious.

I have a multimeter. I know I should be able to confirm the timer is bad using it. But am I looking for continuity? From what terminal to what terminal? Do I check whlie the timer is still installed and wired up or do I remove it for this test?
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  #45  
Old 08-04-2009, 11:52 AM
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No need for all of that. The timer will click eventually, im 99% sure. I have rarely come across a ref that had a stuck contact like that.

The timer test is done while the timer is installed.

Im starting to believe that you dont have a defrost problem. Were your evap coils covered with frost? Like covered to the point that it would restrict air flow?

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