I'm gearing to replace our garbage disposer. The previous unit didn't have a p-trap in the line to the drain pipe. The drain pipe has it's own p-trap. The existing unit was installed by the house's PO who's an excellent handyman. If he didn't use a p-trap, it wasn't out of being cheap or lazy. Should I add a p-trap with the new garbage disposer? I haven't missed it in 10 years.

The old disposer does the job but developed a 'cup a week' leak from the bottom plate. I read it's most likely the motor seal. I can't find the Sinkmaster 901 in on-line parts databases and motor seals are NLA for Sinkmasters in general. I tried to wing it but the bolt that goes into the motor from the disposer chamber is corroded. It looks more like a carriage bolt head than a hex after my attempts to disassemble the unit.

Thanks,
Sixto
87 300D

I'm not an expert on code but I believe that as long as there's a P-trap in the line between the drain and the main sewer lines in the house, it's OK.

__________________
-Evan


Benz Fleet:
1968 UNIMOG 404.114
1998 E300
2008 E63


Non-Benz Fleet:
1992 Aerostar
1993 MR2
2000 F250

Dang, I didn't even think of code.

Sixto
87 300D

Two traps in sequence cause drainage issues since you actually "trap" an extra air bubble between the two traps and it acts like an air spring.

If your set up is dual sinks going into a single trap and drain, you should be okay as long as the garbage disposal drain and the other sink drain pipes meet above the trap. The trap is there to have a water barrier between your house and the sewer gases.

Mine is a single trap as well, a straight horizontal pipe connect the disposal to the drain above the trap.

@$%&! The replacement disposer outlet is a pipe width higher than the old disposer. It's an 11" run between the disposer and the main drain fitting under the adjacent sink. I'm thinking of cutting the joining pipe into stubs and using 1.5" hose to bridge the height difference. The alternative is to redo the drain and union under the adjacent sink (yuck!). Thoughts?

Thanks,
Sixto
87 300D

If the disposer is higher you should just be able to change one of the straight pipes to make up the difference. You may have the 1.5 inches available with the existing slip fitting on the downpipe from the adjacent sink drain. If the new disposer were lower, then you'd have troubles since the water would try to drain back to the disposer.

I'd bit the bullet and do it right the first time, even if that means an R&R of the adjacent drain. Drain pipe and gaskets are cheap, leaks and water damage are expensive.

I was thinking of using a p-trap horizontally to make up the difference

Sixto
87 300D