I have always liked diesel power, but large diesel pickups are impractical for me so i figured id look into some mercedes diesel vehicles, i went and looked at a pretty clean 1985 300d turbodiesel this car ran and drove good but it seems like everything else on the car doesn't function so well, such as the power windows will not move up or down the locks dont work, the wipers, power seats (i think but forgot to check)and probably other minor things. the reason i went and looked at this car was because i was telling a buddy how a car like that would be cool to have and he realized there had been one sitting at his work for at least 4 years. so he told me to come look at it. if everything worked i'd probably buy it, yes i know its 25 years old and cant expect it to be like new. but i want to know if buying this car would be worth it. it had 164,000 miles if the odometer even worked and was pretty much rust free, and the owner wants $ 1,500 but he's open to offers, so i could probably get it cheaper. seeing my username im sure its obvious im into nissans, and nissans are pretty much the only vehicles i ever got into and they dont use vacuum for anything except some emissions and brake boosters. i want to expand my horizons though. if i picked up this car is it pretty easy to get all these vacuum powered accessories to work again and is this car worth the asking price????

if you have the some mechanical ability and the want to tinker with an old car, than you have found the one a DIY guy can own and fix all kinds of things, it is a fun car but can be a nickel dimer at times - jz

yea i have a good amount of mechanical ability but finding these hidden leaks sounds hard, unless you guys might know the specific common things to check for??

If it's been sitting for 4 years, you're going to have issues beyond the normal ones.
No power seats, weren't offered.
Locks are a vacuum issue.
Wipers may be a fuse problem, or maybe not. Windows the same.
You already know many items don't work.
Good mileage, if accurate. Little to no rust is always good.

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83 SD

84 CD

Do some research by searching the archives here. The W123 is a great chassis. If its free of rust, it might be something to look at, especially if you are looking for a learning experience.
On any Mercedes, the service history is of the utmost importance, Expect to pay more for a clean car with a well documented service history.
Vehicles with unknown history are often a crap shoot.
If you have the ability to turn your own wrenches, and the willingness to learn, and use the resources here on this board, you might end up with a satisfying vehicle.

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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags

I own an 85. Love the car. Mine was sitting for 10 years.

I have a list of things I need to fix. This summer will be a fun time.

1. Rust
2. Broken differential mount screw
3. Oil cooler lines
4. Oil leak near turbo (might be seals, but I haven't checked).
5. Motor mounts
6. Valve adjustment
7. Diesel Purge

Eventually I want to get my AC working, but then again I like driving with my windows down

I'm only 20 right now. Before I got my car I always had that mentality to "bring it to a mechanic" even though I do most of my own repairs on other items . My old Honda was just that, I was spoiled with that wagon.

This car taught me to appreciation auto mechanics and repair. I enjoy the freedom and that accomplished feeling I get from doing my own repairs.

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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone.

1500 is way too much for a mostly-non functioning car. $500 and its probably about right.

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TC
Current stable:
- 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL
- 2007 Saturn sky redline
- 2004 Explorer...under surgery.

Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth

It depends completely on the condition, it could be worth anywhere between $500 and $5000. The issues you listed could be very simple (fuses and vacuum leaks) or they could cost several $100 each. More importantly, does he have complete maintenance records for the engine/transmission and can you verify the mileage?

With the Diesel engine there are some issues.

Before you start it, you will need to have it flat bedded somewhere and the fuel tank taken off it and all the algae cleaned out of it, and the fuel filters redone, and all the lines clear.

You should bleed the brakes, change the coolant (MB coolant only) and make sure the brakes haven't seized.

It's always important with these cars that the filters are always cleaned, is the alda and banjo bolt in good shape?

The locks and windows are vacuum issues on these. The motor mounts may be shot, and the front suspension, pitmann and idler arms, drag links, and steering shock, shock absorbers may need replaced.

If the AC evaporatorr is toast that is a big job, and the transmission and rear end, if they are in trouble that is a mess. The AC and AT may beyond your skills, and you may need a mechanic.


Still, these cars run forever if well kept up, but here you need to CATCH UP and it will cost you plenty.


If there is not rust or water or air leaks, it should clean up well, and if you can bring it back it could last you forever, I think. These cars are such classics and run really well.


You may have to spend $400 on new tires because ones that old will have flat spots from sitting, and have rot and cracking on the sidewells even if the tread is good -- almost a certain expense.

But if no accident damage or tust, it could come back ok IF you fix everything.


I think the repairs could be more than $1500 if it needs much work, and so it could be no bargain even if FREE!!!

If that is the case, the price of $1500 doesn't mean anything.


But there are lots of good W123 diesels out there, the cheapest, best kept gems and the most plentiful selection (which drives the price down) aRE alwys in Southern California with its mild weather, car culture, that has legions of car nuts keeping their rides in perfect shape. Best place in the world to get a good one for cheap.


For a better answer post this inDiesel Discusson, where the REAL knowledge and enthusiasm exists for this model.

GOOD LUCK.

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1991 560 SEC AMG, 199k <---- 300 hp 10:1 ECE euro HV ...

1995 E 420, 170k "The Red Plum" (sold)

2015 BMW 535i xdrive awd Stage 1 DINAN, 6k, <----364 hp

1967 Mercury Cougar, 49k

2013 Jaguar XF, 20k <----340 hp Supercharged, All Wheel Drive (sold)

This says it all, and is exactly why I wish that my first car was a used MB diesel. Instead of the new '74 Cadillac when I was 23 yr. old that I saved up for - paying cash, that I needed for work.

Once you own, drive, and start working on your own MB diesel - no car will ever measure up to it's precision build and economy. It sounds like the car you are looking at is an excellent opportunity to own one.

Nothing is more dependable than a MB diesel. And that is why I will probably own one 'til the day I die.

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'06 E320 CDI
'17 Corvette Stingray Vert

Windows are electric, locks and many other items are vacuum related.

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83 SD

84 CD

If there are leaks, pass on it. Plenty of other old things you can get WITHOUT the risks of leaks which can often lead to rust and mold. I'd get a newer car myself because I am not into old cars. Newer cars have more creature comforts.

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01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke
99 E300 Turbodiesel
91 Vette with 383 motor
05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI
06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow
04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler
11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow

^ Not to mention complexity.

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83 SD

84 CD

man! out of all the automotive forums i have been on i have gotten the best and most honest feedback from this one. you guys seem like you really like your mb's. i will be going to look at this car again and make sure of a few more things, the car ran like a champion, hardly had any rust, it was wierd though how the engine bay was super clean but the interior was kinda choppy. i was also wondering do these cars start out in 2nd gear when in drive?

The US spec GAS driven ones (The US spec ones have Vin#'s beginning with WDBCA, the euro gassers, have Vin#'s starting with WDB, is how you can tell) all came from the factory with 2nd gear start.

There is a way to MANUALLY get a first gear start on them, every time you want, and also a first gear start module you can buy. My US spec car has a Bergwerks one of these, that I bought, but Bergwerks is out of business now since about 2003 so they are NLA.

Other companies make them though, but I don't have the links for them just now.

As for the DIESEL W126, I don't know.


But ask the question here on Diesel Discussion. For sure those people will know.

There are a LOT of them and they are passionate and knowledgeable about the W126 diesel cars.

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1991 560 SEC AMG, 199k <---- 300 hp 10:1 ECE euro HV ...

1995 E 420, 170k "The Red Plum" (sold)

2015 BMW 535i xdrive awd Stage 1 DINAN, 6k, <----364 hp

1967 Mercury Cougar, 49k

2013 Jaguar XF, 20k <----340 hp Supercharged, All Wheel Drive (sold)