I'm in the middle of what was supposed to be a simple trans fluid/filter change for my 98 Buick Regal. I didn't count on an aluminum seal piece of the old filter being stuck in its housing after removal. (it sounds like this is quite common!)...At times like this, I really miss working on the Merc.

Anyway, I'm trying to figure out some way of getting it out safely. I think what would work really well is a cork screw type tool that looks like a T. That is, you turn it at the bottom, and cork screws drill outward at a perpendicular angle. Then I just pull and twist downward and hopefully the piece comes out. Is there a name for such a tool?

From your description I understand that you want some sort of expanding anchor bolt affair that will grip the side of the old filter that is stuck in a threaded hole?

Have I understood this correctly?

If so see if you can buy an expanding anchor bolt that would normally be used to fix big things in concrete.

Threaded hole? That would make things far too easy.

I found a couple pictures of this thing...
The filter spout seal is what's stuck. It's a little aluminum piece, much like the gold object shown in these pictures.





As some have suggested, it wouldn't normally be necessary to remove the old one, but I scuffed it up a lot in the process of taking the filter out, (because the filter spout broke off in it upon removal). I got the filter spout left-overs out, so now I just have to get the seal out. This thing is in TIGHT. I might try some different pliers for hopefully sticking up in there and twisting out.

When all is done, I really hope there's no chipped metal particles from this hassle that end up causing trouble

I have a 1999 Regal GS, that guy is a little bastard. It's always pressed in there. Do not reuse the old one. I remember destroying it with a pair of cutters and a flat headed screw driver taking some care to not hurt the metal. There isn't a tool, I remember posting this same thread on 3800pro a while ago, you just have to fight it out.

Ah, lovely.
I appreciate the encouraging words. I had to give up last night - tired, hungry, and covered in trans fluid. I'll go for round 2 when I get home today.

Ah ha I see there is a little lip on your gold bit that comes out of the hole. Use a pin punch (or old screw driver) to smack it into the centre of the hole. If you keep going you'll eventually reduce the circumference of the "little bastard" and it will fall out. Try not to scrape the bits you want to keep! (<= good advice for many other situations too)

Good luck

Yep, COMMON GM trans issue. You can reuse the old one unless the new filter doesnt hold to the inside seal.

Tap it with a punch twords the center till it pops out, and your good after that.

~Nate

__________________
95 Honda Shadow ACE 1100.
1999 Plymouth Neon Expresso. 2.4 swap, 10.5 to 1 comp, big cams. Autocross time attack vehicle!
2012 Escape, 'hunter" (5 sp 4cyl)

Yup, did one of these about 11pm on Saturday night. Just knock the lip towards the center with a screwdriver/chisel/whatever's handy, then pull it out. Use a socket and make sure to tap the new one in evenly, and seat it fully. Coat the neck of the new filter with ATF, and twist/push it into place.

Got it!


That was using precision screwdriver + hammer at the lip. I am a bit concerned about damage I did to the port though. The lip was flush super tight up against the top, so I had to dig the screwdriver a little into the housing at the point of contact. I read somewhere about the trans "sucking air" if the seal fails.

I guess I'll clean up the impact zone with a magnet, finish the job, and hope all is well.

Sorry I wasn't trying to be a debby downer, just letting you know I too have been yelling the F word under a W body.

No sweat man.
The first line was sarcastic, but I was serious about appreciating encouraging words from a fellow W-body Buick owner.

Anyway, the job is done now. Filled it up with 7.4 qts as the manual states. Still looks a little low when I check the level while idling in park. (This is the proper way to check it, yes?) More than normal might've come out due to the extended drain time and knocking on the seal piece.

Thanks everyone for the tips and encouragement.

You still have your 300D?

__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

Yep! Actually I've been meaning to make a post about that. I'm not sure what to do with it right now. It has some issues and need some work, but it's rust-free and nothing wrong with the major components. I'll make a separate post about this later today.