Back in HS my friends car failed to start only one time since ownership. He said it was reliable for him but I can remember a couple of things breaking such as the rear wiper motor, driver window, a couple oil leaks and one other thing I can remember.

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2015 ML350 4Matic. Wifes DD
2015 GLK350 4Matic. My winter DD
2012 E350 4Matic. Road Trip car
2009 CLK350 Coupe Designo.Kleemann Tune For nice days/DD
2006 CL600. V12.Eurocharged Tune. Enough said
2005 CLK55 AMG Coupe.Kleemann Tune. For the sound and style
2004 CLK320 Cabriolet. 2005+ Interior swap. For the sunny Florida days & beach days

any V8 rover motor over 6 yrs old--Watch out, one friend has been thru this already. I learned the easy way from HIS little mistake.

The LS series chevy motor any day over the buick/rover motor--For performance parts, or finding a solid unit.

Going to want to hit the timing belt again at 120k or at least an inspection, water pump, and any hoses not in great condition, any 60k tuneup stuff you want to do again. It isn't too pricey really, just plugs wires, belts, water pump, filters. You also should check the valve stem seals and some of the oil system/pickup assembly at 120k. The transmissions can grind going into 2nd, it is most generally a problem with the synchros but I drove mine 30k with that problem and it never got any worse. Biggest issue is the electronics. The capacitors on the ECU can burst, requiring a rebuild. I rebuilt mine for about $45 and it was fine after that. Some of the other computers on board can have the same problem with the caps, just a matter of chasing them down as it happens, I never had a situation where it wasn't drivable and in 5 years it never left me even close to stranded. Overall really great cars and engines that can put out 500+AWHP easily with turbo mods but they do tend to get abused if you're not careful. You'll be hard pressed to find a pre-99 6G7X engine without lifter tick, but it is normal and harmless. The "cool" factor is through the roof even 20 years later. I truly miss the Stealth

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TC
Current stable:
- 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL
- 2007 Saturn sky redline
- 2004 Explorer...under surgery.

Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth

If you like the 70's I would get a BMW 2002 or Datsun 240Z
instead of a MGB. I think the early 70's carb cars are simpler than
to work on than FI cars. A 240Z with a later 2.8L engine+ 5spd would
be nice. Prices are still reasonable.

Or a 80-90's Supra, Z or Miata

The '70's cars mentioned were rotmobiles in the rust belt, particularly the Z. I wouldn't touch one today unless they lived in a dry section of the U.S.

I thought it would be obvious, Don't buy a rust mobile?

1.LS engine is much more powerful, more and easier to find hop up stuff for.

2. BOP/Rover engined MGBs have been around for a long time. Triumph even did a factory one, the TR8. Well balanced, easy fit and there are kits out there.

3. Most Rover V8s are ok, I had a 1994 (bought in 2000) 3.9 that went 325 thousand miles w/o any real work. Later 4.2s & 4.6s have some problems with headgaskets, but if you are building a 4.6, it is an easy fix.

4. Personally, I'd love an early Z car with an aluminum big block