There is a chance that the switch is bad. I have seen that on a 220v electric stove.

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Eugene

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KGCG260SWH5 | A-1 Appliance Model Lookup

They probably make them as they go.

It appears that you have a 120V, 1700 Watts grilling element. This is equivalent to 6,000 BTUs, about the same as a 6-inch gas burner. While it is not a hot bed of charcoal, you should be able to grill better than you describe.

A 120V element uses a single pole switch for the "hot" leg that powers the heating element, with the 'other' end of the element connected to "neutral" or basically the same concept as a light bulb, or in this case more like a toaster oven. Its 1700 Watt rating allows it to be connected to a 15 ampere circuit with a cord and plug. Be aware, though, that just like a toaster oven it requires almost all of the circuit's capacity.

Now, if the heating element is shorted internally, its output wattage will be lower, depending on how far the short is from the 'hot' or switched end. A short right at the switched end places a dead short on the line and you will trip a breaker or blow a fuse.

If it is if it shorted 1/4 of the way from the 'hot' end it will put out 425 Watts (1/4 of rated) halfway and it will put out 850 Watts, 3/4 1275 Watts, etc. You may be able to see it glow only part-way along the element.

If you are comfortable with basic multimeter measurements, and can access the heating element, with the range UNPLUGGED you can do some quick checks with an ohmmeter. A 1700 Watt element should read about 8-10 ohms or so from end-to-end, and should read "infinite" or "open" from either end to the element's metal sheath.

Keep us informed on your progress.