Removing the old black adhesive from concrete - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

t walgamuth · #1 04-07-2012, 10:58 AM

I have a space in my commercial building which currently has carpet direct glued. It turns out that under that is old 1/8" thick vinyl tile secured with the black mastic that I remember from my childhood. It is glued directly to a concrete slab.

I have a potential tenant who wants to remove all that and stain the concrete floor under it all. I have tried to get this black goo off of my wood floors in the upper levels of my building and it is really tough stuff.

Does anybody have an idea of how to get this stuff off concrete short of gringing it off?

The trouble is even with grinding it the pores of the grinding media get clogged with it and makes it very tough going.

jplinville · #2 04-07-2012, 10:59 AM

I believe you can torch it and scrape it off

The Clk Man · #3 04-07-2012, 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

I have a space in my commercial building which currently has carpet direct glued. It turns out that under that is old 1/8" thick vinyl tile secured with the black mastic that I remember from my childhood. It is glued directly to a concrete slab.

I have a potential tenant who wants to remove all that and stain the concrete floor under it all. I have tried to get this black goo off of my wood floors in the upper levels of my building and it is really tough stuff.

Does anybody have an idea of how to get this stuff off concrete short of gringing it off?

The trouble is even with grinding it the pores of the grinding media get clogged with it and makes it very tough going.

Go to sign NGlantz website, it's a sign supply company, and order a quart or gallon of rapid remover. It's a high power adhesive remover, it should dissolve any type of adhesive. I use it to remove the glue under the letters on signs.

Hope this helps my man.

jplinville · #4 04-07-2012, 11:04 AM

For a chemical remover, try BEAN-e-doo. google it and you'll find it.

kerry · #5 04-07-2012, 11:10 AM

I got some off a fir floor with a scraper but it was very hard work. In fact, after, I purchased a pneumatic scraper from HF in case I ever had to do that kind of thing again. I'd try that adhesive remover. I seriously doubt the concrete will ever reach a condition where staining it will look good.

t walgamuth · #6 04-07-2012, 01:14 PM

Yeah, that is what I am thinking. If we get most of it off perhaps it could be painted.

rscurtis · #7 04-07-2012, 03:44 PM

If the area is large enough, or if you can't use the chemical process, rent an EDCO floor grinder using their Dymaserts or Stripserts. www.edcoinc.com.

t walgamuth · #8 04-07-2012, 05:15 PM

it is about 1400 sf so stripper unless somehow mechanized would probably be out. The fumes also would probably be a problem.

Stoney · #9 04-07-2012, 06:16 PM

I have seen very good results when concrete floors were powerwashed with a high pressure unit.

The mastic adhesive should come off without any fuss.

t walgamuth · #10 04-07-2012, 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stoney

I have seen very good results when concrete floors were powerwashed with a high pressure unit.

The mastic adhesive should come off without any fuss.

The old black mastic stuff?

kip Foss · #11 04-08-2012, 12:55 AM

Hydro blast it off. A 3-4k psi unit with a shot gun nozzle should remove it.

t walgamuth · #12 04-08-2012, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kip Foss

Hydro blast it off. A 3-4k psi unit with a shot gun nozzle should remove it.

I am not sure how this will work with my frame surrounding walls.

Stoney · #13 04-08-2012, 01:32 PM

If you do a Vizqueen drape on all exposed surfaces and have a partner using a wet/dry vac to suck up the debris while you are doing the blasting, it can be done. I did this same procedure in a basement and we covered all non concrete surfaces with plastic (sealing the joints with 6" wide Tuktape) and we got the job done in an afternoon. We ran a dehumidifier for 5 days afterwards and there was no damage to anything but the floor mastic.

Understand that ANY chemicals used to dissolve/melt the mastic WILL contaminate the surface of the concrete and interfere with any paint/stain/etc you choose to install. I have even seen reactions from the Citrus based chemicals that caused a problem with Armstrong sheet goods and Epoxy paint.

Hydro blasting will only put water into the concrete which will evaporate in 30 days (max). If you want a new looking surface, consider a self leveling cementitious compound as a top coat (SilPro, CMS, etc). They can be stained/painted and can be screed to a smooth finish.

Also consider the effect of the chemicals on you and family. Even if you drape and tape, some WILL get into wood, sheetrock, etc and gas off over time (insulation is a known absorber).

Also you can add sone media to the hydroblast to aid in the removal. Walnut shells, poly beads, etc have been used with especially "difficult" surfaces.

As a part of my job, my firm designs and I supervise floor rebuilding by contractors for NYC Schools and have had to remove sone really difficult adhesives that were used in the past to install flooring ovr concrete, many of which contained asbestos, and by far water blasting works best.

BTW Do you know when the adhesive was applied? It could be ACM type mastic and in that case hydro is the only way I would go.

paolo1 · #14 02-26-2024, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stoney

If you do a Vizqueen drape on all exposed surfaces and have a partner using a wet/dry vac to suck up the debris while you are doing the blasting, it can be done. I did this same procedure in a basement and we covered all non concrete surfaces with plastic (sealing the joints with 6" wide Tuktape) and we got the job done in an afternoon. We ran a dehumidifier for 5 days afterwards and there was no damage to anything but the floor mastic.

Understand that ANY chemicals used to dissolve/melt the mastic WILL contaminate the surface of the concrete and interfere with any paint/stain/etc you choose to install. I have even seen reactions from the Citrus based chemicals that caused a problem with Armstrong sheet goods and Epoxy paint.

Hydro blasting will only put water into the concrete which will evaporate in 30 days (max). If you want a new looking surface, consider a self leveling cementitious compound as a top coat (SilPro, CMS, etc). They can be stained/painted and can be screed to a smooth finish.

Also consider the effect of the chemicals on you and family. Even if you drape and tape, some WILL get into wood, sheetrock, etc and gas off over time (insulation is a known absorber).

Also you can add sone media to the hydroblast to aid in the removal. Walnut shells, poly beads, etc have been used with especially "difficult" surfaces.

As a part of my job, my firm designs and I supervise floor rebuilding by contractors for NYC Schools and have had to remove sone really difficult adhesives that were used in the past to install flooring ovr concrete, many of which contained asbestos, and by far water blasting works best.

BTW Do you know when the adhesive was applied? It could be ACM type mastic and in that case hydro is the only way I would go.

super old thread but this is fascinating to me and may be the silver bullet to my project. Stoney if you ever see this I would love to hear more. I see you have relocated to FL I am in NJ and would love to find some super professional folks who have had great success with this technique thank you!