Just got a new car for free! 1994 Buick Century w/ 47,000... questions - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Txjake · #16 07-23-2013, 09:03 AM

Just looked at Edmunds link and saw that they made a wagon, with woodgrain! I'd like one of those.....

Mölyapina · #17 07-23-2013, 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dynalow

Agree with all on the tires & brakes. I'd get it on a lift and have the entire underbody inspected. Has this car been garaged or lived outdoors mostly?

Good luck with it.

It has been garaged. I'm trying to figure out where I'd go to inspect the underbody.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike D

Was it a "tire shake" or was it more of a drive train "shudder"? Those GM years are very sensitive to ignition misfires.

If swapping around tires doesn't alleviate the problem look to the distributor cap, plug wires and ignition coils. Pretty common on that engine model to have a coil break down under load. This causes a "shudder" when the engine is under a load which goes "mostly" away when you let off the throttle. It feels as though the transmission is rapidly shifting in and out of overdrive.

Easy to diagnose. With the car running, disconnect and re-connect the injector electric feeds. Look for one which doesn't affect the idle speed. Check that plug wire to eliminate it for the cause and if the wire is good your coil is suspect.

Intake manifold gasket failure is a problem with the engine line. Fairly easy Saturday fix or weekend depending on your skill level. Take a sharp look at the old intake manifold. Corrosion can cause pitting on the lower plenum surfaces which causes a coolant leak into the intake. The upper plenums are often cracked by the un-informed tightening the upper plenum bolts to "stop that little leak". So plan on possibly having to replace it when the time comes. Relatively cheap and available. $140 for a new plenum, about $60 for the gasket set (upper/lower) and you can usually get a used plenum at the JY for under $50. Pay attention to the torque settings. They are in "inch pounds" NOT "foot-pounds". Follow the torque sequence, it's crucial.

Thank you for all the advice! I'll see if I can fit that in today or tomorrow. In the meanwhile, do you think it's okay to be driving the car around locally? The vibration doesn't appear at speeds below 70 MPH or so, although the squeaking does.

Mike D · #18 07-23-2013, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jooseppi Luna

The vibration doesn't appear at speeds below 70 MPH or so, although the squeaking does.

Easy fix. The radio works doesn't it?

P.C. · #19 07-23-2013, 09:48 AM

We've had a few GM A-cars of that generation in our family. They all have been dull and unrewarding to drive, but relatively fuel-efficient for their size, decent trunk space, and when shod with a good winter tire, very good winter cars.

But, I cannot overstress what a good idea it is to check out those brakes: The Wall. - YouTube

JB3 · #20 07-23-2013, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dynalow

A little pedestrian, but a lot of people like it. The comments on visibility are noteworthy, imo, because my 2012 CTS has the worst driver visibility of any car I have ever driven.

1994 Buick Century Consumer Reviews

Agree with all on the tires & brakes. I'd get it on a lift and have the entire underbody inspected. Has this car been garaged or lived outdoors mostly?

Good luck with it.

To reiterate what P.C said,

what I love about those old GM A-bodies is that its a highly ranked, well liked, totally nondescript vehicle.

Equally at home taking you and your friends for a round of golf and drinks at the club, or scoring some crack cocaine on the corner at 3 am after a fight with your prostitutes. Welcomed in all circles, and forgotten just as quick.

Reliable, easy to drive and comfortable as well as intelligently layed out and decent trunk space, yet totally forgettable, often blandly painted, bland looks, and bland style. Call it the beige corolla or camry of GMs lineup.

It is almost the same weight as the VW Jetta mk4 fyi. Hint hint hint. TDI recipient? The ultimate sleeper commuter vehicle

tbomachines · #21 07-23-2013, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Txjake

Just looked at Edmunds link and saw that they made a wagon, with woodgrain! I'd like one of those.....

My grandfather had one and then when he passed it went to my brother drove it all through college. What a piece of crap. A reliable piece of crap, but a piece of crap nonetheless.

tbomachines · #22 07-23-2013, 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dynalow

A little pedestrian, but a lot of people like it. The comments on visibility are noteworthy, imo, because my 2012 CTS has the worst driver visibility of any car I have ever driven.

1994 Buick Century Consumer Reviews

Agree with all on the tires & brakes. I'd get it on a lift and have the entire underbody inspected. Has this car been garaged or lived outdoors mostly?

Good luck with it.

Is yours a coupe or sedan? I was tempted by the CTS-Vs but couldn't bring myself to do it. The coupe was the one with terrible visibility, the sedan seemed fine to me.

Simpler=Better · #23 07-23-2013, 10:16 AM

If it's anything like my old 98 LeSabre that car will soon become your favorite. No one looks at it twice, reliable, cheap insurance & fueling, QUIET, smooth on the highway.

My 98's front wheel bearings failed @ 80k, apparently a common problem. I was able to replace them in the driveway, the only special tool needed is a larger(T45? 50? 55?) torx bit. A made-in-USA hub unit(with internal ABS sensor) was around $85/side. Did the brakes at the same time because they were cheap.

Mine presented as a light grinding noise that I couldn't pinpoint, until it randomly self-destructed at 70mph. Coasted to the side and flatbed towed home.

Pooka · #24 07-23-2013, 10:30 AM

If the tires are newish and a bit of driving does not smooth over the vibration then it would be best to have the tires spin balanced and rotated by a quality shop.

I once had a vibration at 85, so I took it to a larger shop and they found that one of my front alloy wheels was no longer round. A new one was $2,100, so the tire guy suggested he put it on the back where it would not cause vibration.

The results, after a rebalance and tire rotation, was 110 with no vibration.

The secret to this is to have a good shop do the balancing, not a place that has a balance machine that they have to dig out from under stuff to use.

The cost was less than $40, and the search is on for a place to repair the wheel.

This may not solve your problem, but a good tire guy will look at more than your tires for a vibration problem and the money you spend for their advice will save you hours of looking and wondering time.

Experts cost a lot, but that is because they are worth it.

P.C. · #25 07-23-2013, 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pooka

If the tires are newish and a bit of driving does not smooth over the vibration then it would be best to have the tires spin balanced and rotated by a quality shop.

I once had a vibration at 85, so I took it to a larger shop and they found that one of my front alloy wheels was no longer round. A new one was $2,100, so the tire guy suggested he put it on the back where it would not cause vibration.

The results, after a rebalance and tire rotation, was 110 with no vibration.

The secret to this is to have a good shop do the balancing, not a place that has a balance machine that they have to dig out from under stuff to use.

The cost was less than $40, and the search is on for a place to repair the wheel.

This may not solve your problem, but a good tire guy will look at more than your tires for a vibration problem and the money you spend for their advice will save you hours of looking and wondering time.

Experts cost a lot, but that is because they are worth it.

A cracked steel wheel will also cause a vibration at speed.

Jim B. · #26 07-23-2013, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by P.C.

A cracked steel wheel will also cause a vibration at speed.

Chrome wheels are ILLEGAL in Germany.

Guess why.

P.C. · #27 07-23-2013, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim B.

Chrome wheels are ILLEGAL in Germany.

Guess why.

Europeans have better taste?

TwitchKitty · #28 07-23-2013, 03:40 PM

We had a 1989 grand prix back in the olden days. It was about the same drivetrain as your century. Good, comfortable, economical car but I replaced a bunch of parts on it while we had it. Parts were cheap and it was pretty easy to work on.

Change the fluid and filter in the transmission, flush the cooler. Do this soon, very soon.

Brake disks were a little different and didn't turn on a lathe well, better to buy new.

Ignition pickup, crank sensor on back of motor by firewall, no spark.

Fuel injectors lost resistance and shut down computer.

Fuel pressure regulator, memory not clear, maybe surging and cruise control not holding speed.

MAP sensor, over rich blubbering.

Thermostat gasket went out a couple times. Goofy rubber thing.

Heater core, what a *****, behind sheetmetal on firewall. Wouldn't want to do that again.

I had the upper intake manifold off for something, don't remember why.

GM CS alternator is typical US overrated alternator. Don't make it charge a low battery, use a battery charger. Heat kills alternators.

Biggest problem was an uninsured motorist who turned left across lines of traffic, in front of me. End of interest in car, donated to charity.

Mölyapina · #29 07-23-2013, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pooka

If the tires are newish and a bit of driving does not smooth over the vibration then it would be best to have the tires spin balanced and rotated by a quality shop.

I once had a vibration at 85, so I took it to a larger shop and they found that one of my front alloy wheels was no longer round. A new one was $2,100, so the tire guy suggested he put it on the back where it would not cause vibration.

The results, after a rebalance and tire rotation, was 110 with no vibration.

The secret to this is to have a good shop do the balancing, not a place that has a balance machine that they have to dig out from under stuff to use.

The cost was less than $40, and the search is on for a place to repair the wheel.

This may not solve your problem, but a good tire guy will look at more than your tires for a vibration problem and the money you spend for their advice will save you hours of looking and wondering time.

Experts cost a lot, but that is because they are worth it.

How would I find a good shop? Was that $40 for everything done at the shop? What on earth do you drive that a new rim is $2100?

Mölyapina · #30 07-23-2013, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tbomachines

My grandfather had one and then when he passed it went to my brother drove it all through college. What a piece of crap. A reliable piece of crap, but a piece of crap nonetheless.

What did you not like about it? The car strikes me as eminently useful, reliable, and cheap to own.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike D

Easy fix. The radio works doesn't it?

I think it does, but all else hasn't failed yet, so I haven't read the instructions!