I have an offer out on a condo with radiant electric ceiling heat. Is there any quick way to test the system? Would sticking an voltmeter across the thermostat when the stat is off be enough? i.e. you should get 240V across the open switch since an intact heating panel would act as a return.

hot 1 -> voltmeter in parallel with thermostat -> panel -> hot 2
(if it's a dual-pole stat, I could bridge one of the poles or use two voltmeters)

Ceiling? Would avoid.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

It's not a deal-breaker -- if it's broken, I'll just ask for a price discount enough to install an alternative electric heating system or install miniature PTAC heat pumps. Climate isn't harsh enough to need anything more.

In fact, I kind of hope that it IS broken because I can use it to knock down the price a bit more than fixing the issue would cost me And bringing the purchase cost basis down reduces property taxes as well.

Why complicate things? Turn it on full blast and see if it gets hot in there.

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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.

Spray it with water mist while it's energized. You will see the actual grids drying. We used this to identify where NOT to run screws when raising ceilings that have sagged.

What is the functional advantage of installing a radiant heat system in the ceiling, as opposed to a floor installation? Since heated air rises, wouldn't you see a pretty broad difference in a temperature measured near the ceiling as compared to a temperature measured near the floor? You would sit in a chair and perhaps feel moderately warm, then stand up and feel as if you stuck your head in a blast furnace.

Early 70's technology. It does a good job of heating the room. You don't really notice the area closer to the ceiling being hotter. But you do feel a temp difference when you put your hand under an object like a bed or large table.

My house has these. We have used them for years with no problems. I can understand the appeal as they have to be insanely cheap to install; sort of like putting in a light fixture.

They will heat up the room and I mean all the way down to the floor.

The big advantage to them is that they will never get water splashed on them nor will your kid ever fall into one. They also have no moving parts.

The downside is resistant electric heating costs about triple that of natural gas in this and many other areas. I suspect its true that it is the most expensive per BTU anywhere in the country.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I chose the 2 story house heating method, heat rises, so it's always hotter on the second floor and that's where we stay in the winter.

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Excellent plan Robert!

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Quick test of radiant heat panels. Just shut down all the breakers in the panel other than the radiant panel ones. Turn one units thermostat on at a time and watch the electric meter.

If the meter is one of the old fashion ones with the spinning wheel. Shut down that panels thermostat and try the next one.