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  #16  
Old 03-06-2015, 11:04 PM
KarTek's Avatar
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Every clutch I've ever had has worn out very slowly and has announced it's demise WELL before it was unusable.

For example, this evening I was driving the F250 and I sensed that the clutch was slipping a little in 4th gear. I have about 125,000 miles on this awful metallic clutch and I'm overjoyed that I can finally replace it with something semi-organic.

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  #17  
Old 03-07-2015, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Can't Know View Post
I didn't say there weren't alternatives, and I wouldn't really say yours is better (or mine is). All I know is that the one I posted has been around for decades, and will never pass a clutch that isn't in good condition. True, it strains some other components as well, but it does test the clutch.

How about this, go to a car lot / private seller and test their car in the manner you describe. Please post their reaction.

Your method is an abuse of equipment and absolutely wrong. You will damage the front bumper, severely shock the driveline and maybe damage the center springs of the clutch disc / loosen the lining.

My method puts less wear on the clutch than pulling out on a steep hill.
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  #18  
Old 03-07-2015, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KarTek View Post
Every clutch I've ever had has worn out very slowly and has announced it's demise WELL before it was unusable.

Yes that generally happens.

The biggest issue with a high mile clutch cover is fatigue of the diaphragm spring, when this cracks all clamping force is instantaneously lost with no warning. No clamping load = no drive.

Many older clutches used coil springs and it you lost a spring or two the car would still drive.
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  #19  
Old 03-07-2015, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97 SL320 View Post
Yes that generally happens.

The biggest issue with a high mile clutch cover is fatigue of the diaphragm spring, when this cracks all clamping force is instantaneously lost with no warning. No clamping load = no drive.

Many older clutches used coil springs and it you lost a spring or two the car would still drive.
True, I can't remember if this clutch has a diaphragm or coil springs. I do know that I had to remove the pedal assist spring when I swapped clutches because the pedal pressure was far too light and I couldn't get a smooth engagement, especially when pulling a heavy load.
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Benz Fleet:
1968 UNIMOG 404.114
1998 E300
2008 E63


Non-Benz Fleet:
1992 Aerostar
1993 MR2
2000 F250
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  #20  
Old 03-07-2015, 07:03 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 38,894
The best way to test a clutch is to just wait until it starts slipping on the highway when you pull a hill. That is the most leverage the weight of the vehicle has on the clutch. When that happens just back off a bit and go down a gear if necessary. Treated this way your clutch will last easily until you can change it at a convenient time and place.
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #21  
Old 03-09-2015, 04:25 PM
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Ham Shanker
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Baltimore, MD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
The best way to test a clutch is to just wait until it starts slipping on the highway when you pull a hill. That is the most leverage the weight of the vehicle has on the clutch. When that happens just back off a bit and go down a gear if necessary. Treated this way your clutch will last easily until you can change it at a convenient time and place.
That's a good point, she still holds strong even with the 4 angry squirrels pushing hard uphill
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  #22  
Old 03-09-2015, 06:22 PM
Can't Know's Avatar
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Join Date: Sep 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97 SL320 View Post
How about this, go to a car lot / private seller and test their car in the manner you describe. Please post their reaction.

Your method is an abuse of equipment and absolutely wrong. You will damage the front bumper, severely shock the driveline and maybe damage the center springs of the clutch disc / loosen the lining.

My method puts less wear on the clutch than pulling out on a steep hill.
How about this?

Stop being so didactic and dictatorial?


Remember that we are talking about high-mileage vehicles that you ALREADY SUSPECT of having clutch issues. If you drop in to the car lot and do this on a 2012 Mustang with 38,000 miles you should be roundly slapped, and for good reason. (And you don't have to damage the bumper, the brake test will work as well.)

That said, to each their own. If you disagree with me, so be it. After all, if we both agree on everything then one of us is redundant and unnecessary.
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  #23  
Old 03-09-2015, 11:05 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
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my 2000 jetta tdi ate it's clutch at just shy of 380,000 miles.and the main reason was the dual mass came apart.otherwise i think i would still be using it at 553,000

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