Had this conversation with SirNik ~4 years ago, at some point an old MB becomes a hobby that you work on out of passion - not neccesity. It is fun to wrench, explore junkyards, and tinker to no end... But it's also nice to just turn the key and go somewhere without having to worry. He made the leap and turned his SD into a passion project and bought a newer car to beat on daily. (and I don't think he looked back)

My eyes opened sometime in 2011 when I got my first W202 (it was 12 years old at the time), and I wasn't having to watch the gauges like a hawk and/or pack a bunch of tools or parts in case something happened. Then came the E55 (which was 8 years old) and that really opened my eyes - gobs of power with nothing to worry about. The W203 that eventually followed on was much of the same tale.

Fast forward to now, been beating on my CDI for the better part of two years. Did the oil cooler when I first bought it and just recently a conductor plate and front upper control arms. I think I've spent $1000 between those three items - not bad considering I've put 45-50k miles on it since purchase.

Don't get me wrong, I love old MBs and will likely wind up with something like a 190E 2.3-16v for a project... But that's all it will likely be. They're fun and cool, but I don't want to have to worry about "the unexpected" 1000 miles from home.

Edit: Also worth mentioning - CIS sucks. I don't care what anyone thinks or says, it's the achilles heel of any mid-late 80s gasser Benz.

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-Justin

91 560 SEC AMG - other dogs dd
01 Honda S2000 - dogs dd
07 MB ML320 CDI - dd
16 Lexus IS250 - wifes dd

it's automatic.

When I get a house with a garage I'll get back into older MB's they are a great hobby.

But for now my next Mercedes will either be a new lease or a CPO purchase, with a full warranty. When the warranty is up I'll move on.


Time is also a factor, as I have gotten older I have less of it for hobbies.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

For those in the rustbelt like me. I can keep rust at bay on some of the newer cars.

The factory sound deadening applied at the factory on the older models of Mercedes defeats me. So I cannot drive an old Mercedes in the salt season here in eastern Canada. The brand was a real rust bucket originally if sold in areas like mine.

I also think they used a non waterproof primer under the paint. That is also no help at all. Leaving me with some good weather Mercedes cars basically.

Rear brakes need attention this week on my daily driver. A choice of three rotor sizes my parts store informed me. No way to be positive on the size until measured. They claim even the vin number will not do it. Why the same identical car has three different rotor sizes is beyond me.

I also examined the paid for preventative rust proofing job I had done on it last fall. It is really reaching the point if you want the majority of things done well. You have to do it yourself. The right material was used but coverage in important areas was non existant.

Surprise was the rotors of all three sizes are reasonably cheap. This is not always the case with rear brake rotors. .

I think that this is an individual vehicle issue.

I bought a 240D MT six years ago for $2400. Everything worked except the speed control. I drove it 600 miles home based on the former owner's recommendations. Everything worked fine, especially the AC.

In those years I have replaced two sticking brake calipers and rotors, and an alternator belt, plus a battery and a block heater cord. And four tires.

I religiously check all fluids and change them.

Some rust on a hood hinge which has caused me trouble.

That's it. And I put about 12k on the car each year.

I have had other problems with other cars but the most important thing is to test drive the car and ask questions before you buy. One look under the engine will tell you a lot.


These car require maintenance and then perform well.

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Strelnik
Invest in America: Buy a Congressman!

1950 170SD
1951 Citroen 11BN
1953 Citroen 11BNF limo
1953 220a project
1959 180D
1960 190D
1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr
1983 240D daily driver
1983 380SL
1990 350SDL daily driver alt
3 x Citroen DS21M, down from 5
3 x Citroen 2CV, down from 6

In my long experience as a German Car Mechanic it has become clear to me that German cars, more so than others, require more looking after for them to be reliable over time .

Not a problem for me as I live and breath tinkering ~ yesterday was remove the passenger seat and most of the carpeting in my '84 300CD, as an older and partially disabled person I find that entire seat rather heavy to lift out but it's all*much* cleaner inside, smells nicer too, I was reminded rather forcefully of why I don't like to allow food to be eaten inside my vehicles .

The downside of course is : having so much uncovered made me want to do other things........ lots of little things go wrong on old neglected German cars .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Any car requires maintenance; especially cars over ten years old. This is how new car dealerships keep people trapped in never-ending car payments. Trade that old rust bucket in on a NEW ride. You don't want the hassle of dealing with car problems, do you??

In the appliance business I have the same thing. Older washing machines are better performing machines and are generally better built. They don’t last forever but they are basically infinitely repairable. I hate condemning an older washer, but is usually because it’s broken AND it’s rusted to hell.

The same mentality applies to cars. I can keep up with my car mechanically, it’s the rust I can’t keep under control. It’s a losing battle up here.

I’m currently looking at a 2011 e350 wagon with 50k miles. I can get it for around 25k out the door. I need to take it to the dealership to get checked out thoroughly but it runs and drives great. One owner and clean car fax

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Eugene

10 E63 AMG
93 300te 4matic
07 BMW X3
14 Ford F-150 Fx2

Yes, I like those too.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

It may be worth cleaning a couple of areas to bare metal and installing a couple of sacrificial metal anodes. At least in regional areas that seemingly promote rust.

It just might slow things down or even if not will do no harm. Plus very inexpensive to do. Use a good dielectric paste between the two metals of course with a high electrical conductivity factor. You can partially tell the effectiveness by watching for the anode to deteriorate. If it is it is helping fine. If not it is what it is. .

The factory coating allows moisture to accumulate under it. Just condensation from weather changes I suspect. At the same time the rot it creates can become terminal.

I again suspect if you live in areas were the temperature passes through the frost point a lot you have a problem.

As for why I keep my old Mercedes cars is a semi complex issue. Number one is they are relatively easy to deal with their issues usually. Plus I did not have to accumulate a lot more equipment to deal with them. Newer cars are just a utility item to me in comparison. When I have the time I also enjoy working on older cars. It seems to be a form of relaxation for me. I only wish I had more time available to do this.

I envy the members that either have the time or make it available. Or are able to make it a higher priority in their lives than I am able to.

I live in Canada. A country that is increasingly developing a noticeable increase of real standards of citizens well being and happiness. Actually increasing reciently to number five in the world currently. Where America has fallen from 10 to 18th position. Not something I like to see transpiring.

So technically I should have the time for this pastime. Active pastimes over a lifetime are extremely beneficial to those that have them. As a specis we tend to get at loose ends in one fashion or another without them. Wives in both my own experience and observation of others. Seem to not mind their husbands working on hobby cars. Even though cars are an inanimate object to them. Just remember to wear nitrite gloves for your safety. As they hate greasy finger prints on them.

As I mentioned to the wife this morning over breakfast at the cottage. You know honey we have been together so long their is nothing we would not do for each other. I do nothing for you and you do nothing for me.

Since the opposite is totally true and we both know it. She was able to laugh about the remark. Our bond has only grown stronger and stronger over the years.

Then off to the vet with the dog. When they presented the bill. I almost was going to ask if they were sure that was enough. They must have joined the local auto repair outlets association. Every visit is only by appointment now. If they estimate you cannot afford their costs. Tough luck or perhaps payment is asked for in advance of services. You call in for an appointment they insist they have to call you back.

FWIW, dielectric grease insulates so it's not going to help any Sacrificial Anodes....

I work on old machines and tinker because that's just what I do, driving my old Mercedes Diesels makes me smile ~ they're great drivers .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

There are two types. They are specified by type. I use the conductive type on battery terminals for example and under ground straps when refreshing them on older cars.

In many cases after they are cleaned up the original electroytic deposited plating protection coating on the cables terminals is pretty thin or almost non existant. It seems to do better than average in helping. All I really know is some connection treatment is better than no treatment.

I have always added some form of connection protection when working on cars electrical systems. For example petroleum based grease that is also non conductive. Was my usual go to item.

It just occurred to me one day that the conductive type of die electric grease was also silicone based as well. Plus it has a high rate of conductivity. Probably just very finely ground up metal is added to the grease.

Also being silicone based it does not attack rubber or certain types of plastic.

I switched over to conductive die electric grease not that long ago so the results are not in yet. From China to your door for a dollar gets a syringe full of it.

Medium to darker grey in color. In the product I got at least. It has high viscosity for a grease so the probability of it not getting washed away is good.

I am watching the battery terminals I have done to see if there is a noticeable reduction in corrosion appearing with time. In the old days vasoline was used by some people. Although it was also non conductive.

In practice it did prevent air from reaching the actual physical contact areas of the terminals and cable. Oxidation needs the oxygen in air to develop.

By blocking the metals access to it you win. Battery connections to the cables have always been my test vehicle for longer term performance. Of a product.

The only caution I can think of. Is you never want to use the conductive type where a non conductive type of die electric silicone grease should be used.

I too have been greasing contacts on old vehicles since the 1960's, those who says it doesn't help are ignorant or perhaps just lazy .

'Dielectric' means non conductive.....

I use a grease with ground nickle in it, works like a charm .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

There are dielectric greases designed explicitly for electrical connections. They are designed to improve electrical connections by preventing oxidation of the contact. They are "dielectric" in the sense that they prevent ion transfer (oxidation), but not electron transfer. Standard dielectric grease is an electrical insulator so it pays to determine which type you're using. The stuff for electrical connections will specify such on the tube or can, and often does claim some sort of metal content, though not all of them do.

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Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

THANK YOU ! .

One more priceless lesson that was FREE ! .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Dielectric grease does NOT improve electrical connections. It is used to stop corrosion because it blocks moisture or oxidation. You can use it to cover any electrical connections AFTER they are secured. You can also use vaseline or petroleum jelly which have the same result but much cheaper.

Let get back to the main subject. Old MBZ is for hobbyists and enthusiasts. There is nothing wrong with buying an old MBZ as a daily driver as long as you know what you are getting into. You would be losing your shirt plus weekends or you can be enjoying the fruit of your hard labor - a reliable old car. I definitely enjoy all my old cars and spend peanuts. If you don't wrench yourself then old MBZ probably is not for you, unless money is no object.

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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.