When my car was hit, I took it to who is perhaps the best body guy I've ever seen and met. Located in Delaware, the cars he sees are Northeastern specimens, so, rust is a factor. But not quite as bad as say Boston, or upstate New York.

So, while my 300D was in for a new fender, another 300D, an 83, was being restored for the second time.

At almost 300,000 miles, the 83 300D was once Sun Yellow, now Agave Green. Doug the body guy did all the work previously and said it was indeed a New England car.

So, the owner was having the entire car rid of rust one last time. Doug even told me that this would be the last time he does work on this car, for afterall, how long can it last?

So, the car sat on jack stands, with the entire rear, and rocker sections cut away. New panels, etc, were being fitted.

The car looked like 1/3 of it was being done... Amazing.

Must have been a $10,000 job!

So, he explained to me that rust will happen, no matter what or where the car is. Like a human life and cancer, rust is in the car's "genes" of sorts when its built at the factory.

The metal spools, where they came from, how they were prepped and what they were exposed to all play a factor in the car's rusting. Of course, the design and care of the car play a factor, but rust will happen no matter what.

But a good couple of tips to keep a car rot free for as long as possible...

1.) Keep the car clean, but don't put the car away in a garage still wet. Make sure the car is dry, inside, and out!

2.) Air circulation is key. Old wooden barns make for the best places to store old cars, for there is poor insulation and air moves around frequently.

3.) Be careful of car covers that don't allow air to pass through them. Plastic tarps are a no no.

4.) Car cacoons are your best solution, but they can be expensive.

Remember, rust is an electrical issue. It can't be stopped. Moisture only helps it along... I can go on and on, sorry for the long post, but I thought it a good topic...