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  #1  
Old 06-24-2021, 10:36 AM
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W123 front suspension 'brace' repair/replace/weld?

Ive got a 240 with the usual rust and then some.

Any suggestions on repairing this? Do I remove the seam sealant somehow?

I intend to weld it...somehow...I'm still new to welding and body repair.

And...fabricate a new piece?

Im in the UK and this type of rust will fail the safety check

Attached Thumbnails
w123 front suspension 'brace' welding?-461cc714-1b79-4e28-bb77-d88ed25799f6.jpeg  
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Last edited by indybenz; 06-25-2021 at 07:01 AM.
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  #2  
Old 06-24-2021, 05:19 PM
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Can you post a couple more pics so members can offer advice? Can you tell how the factory attached the pieces. Depending on the load etc. glue used to replace 1/4 panels may work well.

Consider asking the inspector about the repair requirements before starting the repair.
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Last edited by Sugar Bear; 06-24-2021 at 05:41 PM.
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  #3  
Old 06-25-2021, 05:26 AM
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Sorry the picture is not great, and it's not easy to get a great shot of it as there are multiple bends/layers. I don't actually know what the factory attachment procedure was. There might be indicators of spot welds, but it is difficult to tell, and my eye is not trained for body work and knowing much about the subject. There are multiple layers of sheet metal that come together at this point from several angles, complicating matters.

For reference, this is the top of the front passenger (driver in US) wheel arch, between the wing/fender edge and upper shock mount. It's a bit of an odd place for this rust it seems, but perhaps more common than I realize. This is not my first W123 but I've not seen it rotten here before.

I don't need it to be pretty, just functional.
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1982 240d RHD OM605 & 5spd swap


1982 240D LHD/RHD & 300TD LHD / 1983 300SD LHD / 1986 300SDL LHD / 1992 300TD RHD / 1998 C250 TD RHD


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Last edited by indybenz; 06-25-2021 at 05:37 AM.
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  #4  
Old 06-25-2021, 05:27 AM
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Here's another image
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w123 front suspension 'brace' welding?-ba465c3c-c9bc-48d5-8669-bf6709ba2aee.jpeg  
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1982 240d RHD OM605 & 5spd swap


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www.repaircafeglasgow.org
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  #5  
Old 06-25-2021, 09:03 AM
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Is it taking suspension load or just a closure panel. The first picture seems to show metal separating which if structural would be a problem.
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  #6  
Old 06-25-2021, 09:21 AM
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I've not seen that either on W123's. I believe that "clamshell" shape between the top of the framerail up to the horizontal fender bolts is a crumple zone.

A cut of that section from a donor car may be the best option for replacement parts. Unfortunately I do not know how those sections are secured and attached to one another. Hopefully another forum member does and will chime in.

Consider a discussion with the inspection facility about what they are looking for to prevent a rejection upon inspection.

Good luck and please post what you learn, my curiosity has been peaked.
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  #7  
Old 06-30-2021, 06:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
Is it taking suspension load or just a closure panel. The first picture seems to show metal separating which if structural would be a problem.

It's a bit difficult to tell.



At that point on the chassis, there are about 3 layers of steel that come together.



It looks as if the engineers might have said 'hey, we need a bit more here for xxxxx reason, so let's put this in!'.



I'll have the MOT (inspection) guy take a look. They're pretty good at being helpful...usually.
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1982 240d RHD OM605 & 5spd swap


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  #8  
Old 06-30-2021, 06:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sugar Bear View Post
I've not seen that either on W123's. I believe that "clamshell" shape between the top of the framerail up to the horizontal fender bolts is a crumple zone.

A cut of that section from a donor car may be the best option for replacement parts. Unfortunately I do not know how those sections are secured and attached to one another. Hopefully another forum member does and will chime in.

Consider a discussion with the inspection facility about what they are looking for to prevent a rejection upon inspection.

Good luck and please post what you learn, my curiosity has been peaked.

Agreed that a cut section from a donor would be ideal...but what a job! I love these cars but really wish rust were not such a big factor in getting them roadworthy again.
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  #9  
Old 07-09-2021, 12:31 PM
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Exclamation Structural Rust

Wow, that looks bad .

I'd trim the rusted metal away then try to make up some sort of gusseting repair...


Please keep us posted .
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  #10  
Old 08-06-2021, 04:22 PM
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Do not start cutting on the car. First remove the paint, any undercoating and seam sealer then the original primer beneath all that. Of course that's only in areas which you intend to replace.

You will find spot welds and maybe some continuous welds. The spot welds must be center punched and drilled through with a 1/8" bit. Try to stay in the center when you punch them. This will be a guide or pilot hole for the spot weld bit.

It looks like this:

<img src="http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=162942&stc=1&d=1628281576">

Pry the corner of the piece you want to remove with a 1" putty knife or a large slotted head screwdriver. A carpenter's chisel will work but do not drive it in deep and distort the two pieces of metal.

With the putty knife, screwdriver or chisel in between the two pieces of metal set the tip of the spot weld drill bit in the hole you drilled and turn on the drill. Go slow and try to keep the bit perpendicular to the metal.

The bit is designed to cut through one of the overlapping pieces of metal and when you get the hang of it you won't cut though both. Make sure to keep pressure between the metal while you drill out the welds.

Get back to me and we'll talk about what to cut and where to cut it.

Cut and drill nothing until you have the paint and other coatings removed. Remember, nothing makes a patter for cutting replacements like the rusted metal you will remove. That metal has to be cut in the right place and cut straight so hold on about cutting anything but the spot welds until you post pictures of the bare metal.



Insert the tip of the bit into the hole you drilled
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w123 front suspension 'brace' welding?-spot-weld-bit.png  
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  #11  
Old 01-05-2022, 08:24 AM
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Nice thread, you got my attention keep us posted


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  #12  
Old 02-12-2022, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clemson88 View Post
Do not start cutting on the car. First remove the paint, any undercoating and seam sealer then the original primer beneath all that. Of course that's only in areas which you intend to replace.

You will find spot welds and maybe some continuous welds. The spot welds must be center punched and drilled through with a 1/8" bit. Try to stay in the center when you punch them. This will be a guide or pilot hole for the spot weld bit.

It looks like this:

<img src="http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=162942&stc=1&d=1628281576">

Pry the corner of the piece you want to remove with a 1" putty knife or a large slotted head screwdriver. A carpenter's chisel will work but do not drive it in deep and distort the two pieces of metal.

With the putty knife, screwdriver or chisel in between the two pieces of metal set the tip of the spot weld drill bit in the hole you drilled and turn on the drill. Go slow and try to keep the bit perpendicular to the metal.

The bit is designed to cut through one of the overlapping pieces of metal and when you get the hang of it you won't cut though both. Make sure to keep pressure between the metal while you drill out the welds.

Get back to me and we'll talk about what to cut and where to cut it.

Cut and drill nothing until you have the paint and other coatings removed. Remember, nothing makes a patter for cutting replacements like the rusted metal you will remove. That metal has to be cut in the right place and cut straight so hold on about cutting anything but the spot welds until you post pictures of the bare metal.



Insert the tip of the bit into the hole you drilled

Thanks so much for this response! For some reason I never saw it. I have put this aspect of the project on hold as it passed MOT. I'm now focusing on the engine swap, but will take up the body work once it's running under its own power after the swap.
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1982 240d RHD OM605 & 5spd swap


1982 240D LHD/RHD & 300TD LHD / 1983 300SD LHD / 1986 300SDL LHD / 1992 300TD RHD / 1998 C250 TD RHD


www.repaircafeglasgow.org
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  #13  
Old 04-13-2022, 02:00 PM
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For the time being, I have left this as it is. It passed its MOT here in Scotland, so that bought me some time. I will eventually deal with it, but it is not at the top of my list at the moment.
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1982 240d RHD OM605 & 5spd swap


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www.repaircafeglasgow.org
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  #14  
Old 08-28-2022, 10:33 PM
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  #15  
Old 08-29-2022, 10:02 PM
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Question

What's this ? .

I don't click on capricious hyperlinks.....

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