IP Injection pump shut off shutoff replacement

[JimmyL]

Driving around today running errands in the '85. Walked into the office to get my expense check (got to get it in the bank) and my boss asked me what was on my leg. Well, that would have been a long oil drip. Great, so before I left I popped out the inst. cluster to tighten the oil pressure line. Nope, dry as a bone. Then I found the oil drip. Coming from the ignition switch, which means: bad IP shutoff valve.
Here is some pics of the replacement. Not a hard job at all. I wish I knew how to post pics in between the text lines, but all I know how to do is add them at the bottom.

First, take a picture of all the vac lines, as some will have to be disconnected and moved.
I disconnected the throttle linkage, removed the plastic thing on back of IP (tranny related?, don't know). It had 2 5mm allens holding it on. Removed vac line from IP shutoff. Shutoff has 4 10mm bolts. Some can be totally loosened with a 1/4" ratchet, but a couple need a wrench for clearance.
When you get them out, pull out the shutoff assy a small amount, and feel the tension as it grabs the shutoff arm inside the IP. You want to know what this feels like for re installation.
There are 2 gaskets with a metal ring in between them. Be sure and save this metal ring, as it has to be installed on the new one.
Note: I had to snake the shutoff out between the oil filter housing and the engine, back towards firewall and then up and out. you will figure it out.
New one goes in same way. Push it into IP and then before you tighten it down you want to pull out on it to make sure it is contacting arm inside IP. You don't want engine run-away after this. Then reinstall bolts, vac lines and anything else removed in the process.
*Now, prior to starting the engine, I got my trusty 17mm wrench, and loosened the inj. lines at IP, then tightened them slightly. Wanted to make sure they would be easy and fast to crack open in the event of a disaster. I also used my Mityvac to actuate the IP shutoff, but you could use key.
All went fine, except that I finished at dark, and my test drive yielded shifting and acceleration differences from before. Will have to see what I did in the morning.

Things to note:
*If shutoff is full of oil, and mine was FULL, you need to blow out the vac lines that are contaminated. I used my air compressor, then squirted some WD40 in them (per my mechanic), then blew them out again. I just blew out the two brown lines as the oil didn't migrate farther than that, thank goodness. I removed vac line at brake booster to look for oil residue, and there wasn't a drop. It would have needed to be vacuumed out if oil had made it in.
*I removed the shutoff on the keylock assy and cleaned the oil out of it also. It was full. same way. Compressed air, then WD40, then more air.

I'm a simpleton, and this was an easy job.

[Pete Burton]

Originally Posted by maggie11_6

waiting for next post.

CAREFUL, EVERYONE! Maggie's "silk" is really polyester and infected with bird flu

[MattBelliveau]

Bird poo?

[stayalert]

What was the orientation of the plate that holds the shutoff in place? Mine had the beveled corner top Passenger side. I've seen elsewhere that the bevel goes top Drivers side. The palte I'm talking about has the 4 holes for the bolts to go through and the large hole fitting over the shut off.

[JimmyL]

Originally Posted by stayalert

What was the orientation of the plate that holds the shutoff in place? Mine had the beveled corner top Passenger side. I've seen elsewhere that the bevel goes top Drivers side. The plate I'm talking about has the 4 holes for the bolts to go through and the large hole fitting over the shut off.

The beveled side was top passenger side. The IP is angled there (hard to explain), and I'm not sure it would go on the wrong way. The holes are not symmetrically distant from each other either.

Originally Posted by JimmyL

The beveled side was top passenger side. The IP is angled there (hard to explain), and I'm not sure it would go on the wrong way. The holes are not symmetrically distant from each other either.

I'll second that

[whunter]

Originally Posted by JimmyL

Driving around today running errands in the '85. Walked into the office to get my expense check (got to get it in the bank) and my boss asked me what was on my leg. Well, that would have been a long oil drip. Great, so before I left I popped out the inst. cluster to tighten the oil pressure line. Nope, dry as a bone. Then I found the oil drip. Coming from the ignition switch, which means: bad IP shutoff valve.
Here is some pics of the replacement. Not a hard job at all. I wish I knew how to post pics in between the text lines, but all I know how to do is add them at the bottom.

First, take a picture of all the vac lines, as some will have to be disconnected and moved.
I disconnected the throttle linkage, removed the plastic thing on back of IP (tranny related?, don't know). It had 2 5mm allens holding it on. Removed vac line from IP shutoff. Shutoff has 4 10mm bolts. Some can be totally loosened with a 1/4" ratchet, but a couple need a wrench for clearance.
When you get them out, pull out the shutoff assy a small amount, and feel the tension as it grabs the shutoff arm inside the IP. You want to know what this feels like for re installation.
There are 2 gaskets with a metal ring in between them. Be sure and save this metal ring, as it has to be installed on the new one.
Note: I had to snake the shutoff out between the oil filter housing and the engine, back towards firewall and then up and out. you will figure it out.
New one goes in same way. Push it into IP and then before you tighten it down you want to pull out on it to make sure it is contacting arm inside IP. You don't want engine run-away after this. Then reinstall bolts, vac lines and anything else removed in the process.
*Now, prior to starting the engine, I got my trusty 17mm wrench, and loosened the inj. lines at IP, then tightened them slightly. Wanted to make sure they would be easy and fast to crack open in the event of a disaster. I also used my Mityvac to actuate the IP shutoff, but you could use key.
All went fine, except that I finished at dark, and my test drive yielded shifting and acceleration differences from before. Will have to see what I did in the morning.

Things to note:
*If shutoff is full of oil, and mine was FULL, you need to blow out the vac lines that are contaminated. I used my air compressor, then squirted some WD40 in them (per my mechanic), then blew them out again. I just blew out the two brown lines as the oil didn't migrate farther than that, thank goodness. I removed vac line at brake booster to look for oil residue, and there wasn't a drop. It would have needed to be vacuumed out if oil had made it in.
*I removed the shutoff on the keylock assy and cleaned the oil out of it also. It was full. same way. Compressed air, then WD40, then more air.

I'm a simpleton, and this was an easy job.

For new owners.


Run away diesel, why does it happen?
Run away diesel, why does it happen?




.

[Harrison W]

My father and I replaced the IP shut off valve on my 87 300 SDL... we thought we had done the correct job? But boy were we wrong when I jumped in and turned it over. Probably one of the most terrifying things I've ever seen/been through. A streak of exhaust soot stretched across my driveway for 20+ feet! Finally shut it off by pulling the main fuel line to the IP. Engine got so hot the head cracked (#14 head).

Word of caution, make sure you have done the correct job before starting her up!

[Orv]

Couple suggestions after doing this job today:

- Test your emergency stop method before you take off the old part. I took off the air cleaner and slapped a DVD case across the turbo inlet to cut off the air; worked very nicely. I tried a block of wood first, but it didn't make a good enough seal.

- Applying vacuum to the new part with a MityVac and feeling it pull itself onto the pump is a nice way to reassure yourself that it's engaged. I actually left the MityVac in place while I bolted the bracket on, so I wouldn't have to worry about the valve shifting while I worked.

[79greaser]

What should the Hg read on the mytevac while performing the reinstallation? I don't want to wreck it.