99 e300td injector pump leak - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

crmont · #1 10-08-2004, 08:43 PM

:EDIT:
B100, Waste Vegetable Oil (WVO), Low Sulfur Diesel (LSD), and Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel (ULSD) deteriorates Buna-N Rubber O-rings, Viton rubber holds up better.
:END EDIT:

99 e300td

I have a leak at the injector pump. It's not in the pump itself, but the block that feeds the pump (I think). I have seen other threads reguarding leaks but I thought I would post this picture Perhaps someone has seen a thread.

John

barkford · #2 10-08-2004, 09:23 PM

My 98 also has a small amount ( a seep I would call it ) of fuel on top of the pump. There's nothing dripping but if you lean right over the pump and sniff, it's definitely a waft o diesel.

crmont · #3 10-09-2004, 01:08 PM

My leak bubbles a little but seals up when the engine warms up. Has anyone here had this repaired yet? tia

crmont · #4 10-10-2004, 12:14 AM

Does anyone know where to get an exploded parts view of this pump?

michakaveli · #5 10-10-2004, 02:19 AM

sounds like the shutoff valve.... do a search.

Rick Miley · #6 10-10-2004, 08:23 AM

That's most likely leaking plastic fuel lines. If you have small hands, you can replace all but one of them without removing the intake manifold. Simply remove the nut that holds down the washer bottle, lift it up and set it aside. Then you can reach in and get to the fuel lines. I'll post a diagram later today along with part numbers. If the shutoff solenoid (black box) is leaking, then you'll see fuel dripping down underneath it while the engine is running. It wouldn't make a mess on top of the pump.

crmont · #7 10-10-2004, 12:08 PM

I can see the leak bubbling out right where the arrow is. It does leak out the top.

Rick Miley · #8 10-10-2004, 05:01 PM

That's really odd. If it really is coming out between the shutoff valve and the injection pump, then you're going to have to replace the seal ring that is under there. Unfortunately, that means you'll have to take the intake manifold off to get to it. While you're in there, I would recommend replacing all those plastic fuel lines as well. They're not very expensive (under $10 each) and they are prone to leakage, especially when you disturb them. The shutoff valve (black box) is plastic and known to develop leaks as well. That's what I just went through replacing.

The exploded view you wanted is not in one drawing, it is in three that I will attach below. The first one shows the shutoff valve, which has three fuel lines (2 on top, 1 on bottom) attached to it. It has a tube that extends into the injection pump, and that tube has the seal ring on it. That seal ring is very easy to roll or pinch, so be careful when installing. The shutoff valve is held to the i.p. with two allen head bolts. The parts you're interested in from this drawing are:
32 - A 021 997 75 48 Seal Ring
29 - A 000 078 44 49 Shut-off valve

The next picture shows all the fuel lines that I recommend replacing. The clips on the ends of these lines are kind of counter-intuitive. You push the white part in (toward the hose) to release the line. They require quite a bit of force to pull out and push in, so be prepared to wrestle with them. Again, the seal rings are very easy to get out of place when installing. Part numbers for this picture:
32 - A 605 070 14 32 Line from thermostat to prefilter
119 - A 606 070 05 32 Return line from i.p. to fuel filter
126 - A 017 997 22 48 Seal Ring - fuel line and overflow valve
128 - N 007603 012102 Seal Ring - fuel line and overflow valve on i.p.
95 - A 605 070 15 32 Line from fuel filter to shut-off valve
83 - A 606 070 04 32 Line from feed pump to fuel filter
56 - A 605 070 07 32 Line from prefilter to shut-off valve
74 - A 605 070 08 32 Line from feed pump to shut-off valve

Now, any time you take the intake manifold off, you'll need to replace all the little plastic clips. They get brittle and break, so take them all off before you remove the manifold so that no plastic bits fall down into your engine! Also remove the black plastic cover over the valve cover, to make it easier to work here. Parts you'll need:
95 - A 603 078 01 41 Bracket (Qty 7)
92 - A 601 078 03 86 Shim (Qty 7)
104 - A 601 078 26 41 Bracket (Qty 2)

And finally, you'll need:
A 606 141 01 80 Intake Manifold Gasket

Look up a post by Lightman on how to replace glow plugs. He has detailed instructions and pictures for removing the intake manifold.

dbear · #9 11-27-2004, 06:58 PM

I drove 400 miles to Oakland a few days ago. The morning after arriving and more importantly 24 hours after the car had been parked, I noticed a 1 ft diameter spot where fuel had obviously been leaking. The fuel begins to "flow" slowly after about 10 seconds from what I believe is the base of the metal injectors nearest the front of the engine. It takes a bit of driving to get it to flow enough that it will drip down and off of the oil pan. (I have since removed the plastic oil pan guard etc.) If I drive the car for 20 minutes and come back it will drip a little off the oil pan.
1. Is this something that needs to be fixed prior to driving the 400 miles back to Long Beach?
2.Is this likely the crush washers that I have heard about?
3. Any advice is much appreciated???
Thanks,
Drew

92497pmu · #10 08-30-2006, 10:06 PM

gotta start this project soon -

Thanks everyone for your info so far... I will try to photo and document this repair for the DIY board as there is no post for this on a W210

Phil

92497pmu · #11 09-14-2006, 08:27 PM

No more leaks...
I replaced the o-ring and copper washers on Monday afternoon.
3 hour project, start to finish... but would probably be faster next time.

(I had some tool issues and memory lapses on the re-installation at the end.)

Suggestions for the next poor fool that needs to do this.
1. Replace all the plastic fuel lines at the same time

2. Carefully loosen all the compression fittings before loosening the retainer clips and torx screws

3. Buy a 14mm combo box/ crescent wrench to sacrifice.
* cut the entire wrench in half
* use a hacksaw or bandsaw to cut a slot in the side of the box end just wide enough to slip over the fuel delivery line (this should make loosening and retightening the compression fittings much easier.
* You shouldn't need to remove intake manifold with this modified tool (I think MB makes a special tool or crows foot for this, but my quick fix worked really well)

Also
1. Get the car on ramps, jack stands or a lift to save your back
2. make sure you have a strong battery, charger or a good set of cables... It's gonna take a lot of cranking to restart.
3. PS... you're going to need lots of kitty litter or speedy dry

Good luck
Phil

crmont · #12 09-14-2006, 09:22 PM

I'm not sure what the tool you are describing actually does. Is it basically a flare nut wrench? Check this thread and check out the picture. I used a 30 point socket and a flatbar with a 1/2" square welded on one end. It came out of one of those cheap serpentine belt wrench kits. Other than that I used a flare nut wrench to loosen the injector lines. It was quite easy.

99 e300td delivery valve seal replacement without removing manifold

ershelby · #13 10-01-2007, 09:37 PM

Hi someone please tell me what kind of tool do you need to used on a fuel injector, i have already unhook the nut on the fuel line. thanks

uberwgn · #14 10-01-2007, 09:55 PM

Crow's foot wrench.

oteixeira · #15 01-18-2008, 11:03 AM

Hey everyone,

I am about to do this, I was wondering, before I bust up all my knuckles, what size is that banjo bolt on the end of the line that goes into the injector pump that has the two o-rings (the only line held in by a bolt, it is in a tough to reach spot without removing the intake)? The line is 119 in the diagram, the bolt is 125.

Thanks in advance.

Orlando