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  #1  
Old 01-14-2005, 01:23 AM
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Rear sub frame Bushings W126 1985 300SD DIY

I will edit in the DIY later, to late tonight.
Here are the pictures.
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Rear sub frame Bushings W126 1985 300SD DIY-bad_subframe_bushing.jpg   Rear sub frame Bushings W126 1985 300SD DIY-bad_subframe_bushing_2.jpg   Rear sub frame Bushings W126 1985 300SD DIY-bad_subframe_bushing_3.jpg   Rear sub frame Bushings W126 1985 300SD DIY-bad_subframe_bushing_4.jpg   Rear sub frame Bushings W126 1985 300SD DIY-bad_subframe_bushing_5.jpg  

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Old 01-14-2005, 01:25 AM
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Thumbs up Rear sub frame Bushings W126 1985 300SD DIY

More pictures.
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Rear sub frame Bushings W126 1985 300SD DIY-bad_subframe_bushing_6.jpg   Rear sub frame Bushings W126 1985 300SD DIY-bad_subframe_bushing_7.jpg  
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Old 01-14-2005, 01:31 AM
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Wow, looks like you got your moneys worth out of those, were they transmitting alot of sound through the chassis?
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Old 01-14-2005, 01:13 PM
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I found a neat use for mine when I recently replaced the subframe bushings.

They make a neat jack pad. Remove the steel cradle and insert a large bolt through the center of the bushing and you have a nice "padded" cradle.
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Old 02-05-2005, 04:35 PM
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Did mine this morning, they did not look as bad as those shown above, but the inner metal tube was separating from the rubber, and at the outer edge the main meat of the mount was pulling away from the edge.

Observations on the job:
  • One of the captive nuts in the rear foot well that secure the two bolts tore loose, a pain.
  • Removed the old mounts by placing a socket above them and jacking on the subframe, worked well.
  • Getting the new mounts in was very difficult, and they are not all the way in now. Used a bottle jack and plate, I could lift the side of the car but they still wouldn't seat all the way. Used an all-thread/nut/plate installer, still wouldn't seat all the way. I've got these things lubed up like you wouldn't believe, they still didn't want to go all the way in.
  • Getting the main bolt to start was a bit of a pain. Ended up using a bottle jack with a small socket on the top to press the bolt into place while I turned it with a wrench. Once the threads started I was able to use a socket on it. Torqued it all the way home and the edges of the mount are still above the edge of the cup, it's basically just preloaded the center of the mount. This can't be good for it, but what else can I do?

I figure I'll drive around a bit more and see if the mounts seat the rest of the way. The rear end is certainly improved, and feels less "squishy" than it did.

Kevin
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  #6  
Old 02-05-2005, 06:55 PM
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I am wondering

I am still wondering if my rear subframe bushings need replacing. How did you know yours did?
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Old 02-05-2005, 11:00 PM
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Thumbs up Answer:

Quote:
Originally Posted by KCampbell
Did mine this morning, they did not look as bad as those shown above, but the inner metal tube was separating from the rubber, and at the outer edge the main meat of the mount was pulling away from the edge.

Observations on the job:
  • One of the captive nuts in the rear foot well that secure the two bolts tore loose, a pain.
  • Removed the old mounts by placing a socket above them and jacking on the subframe, worked well.
  • Getting the new mounts in was very difficult, and they are not all the way in now. Used a bottle jack and plate, I could lift the side of the car but they still wouldn't seat all the way. Used an all-thread/nut/plate installer, still wouldn't seat all the way. I've got these things lubed up like you wouldn't believe, they still didn't want to go all the way in.
  • Getting the main bolt to start was a bit of a pain. Ended up using a bottle jack with a small socket on the top to press the bolt into place while I turned it with a wrench. Once the threads started I was able to use a socket on it. Torqued it all the way home and the edges of the mount are still above the edge of the cup, it's basically just preloaded the center of the mount. This can't be good for it, but what else can I do?

I figure I'll drive around a bit more and see if the mounts seat the rest of the way. The rear end is certainly improved, and feels less "squishy" than it did.

Kevin
Put 2X4 between body and sub frame, allow the bushing center to float free.
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