WWJD if he had his 617.95 out of the bay?

[jt20]

Taking suggestions for any pertinent work agendas that should be included when removing a 617.95 from a vehicle for a mild rebuild. The head is staying on but the pans are coming off. Below is my current list of things to do:

1. Replace crankshaft and all bearings.
2. New timing chain and rails
3. Inspect oil pump as per FSM
4. Rebuild turbo --- --- --- includes all gaskets
5. General ispection of all moving parts / clearances without removing pistons!!

Anything you wish you could have done with the engine out of the car but wasn't worth the hassle is what I am looking to do now before August. All those little things that take hours with the engine in the car but could / should take under an hour with it out.
I simply do not have the experience with these engines to know what to look for.

Thank you.

ps.. this is a California emissions vehicle



Added:

Valve stem seals

belts / hoses upon install

block to oil filter housing gasket (misc. gaskets)

Engine shocks

Sway bar R&R (bushings)

Valve stem seals and oil cooler hoses.

[jt20]

Thank you Jesus.

I didn't even think of the stem seals. Is there any need for concern when not replacing the rings at the same time? Compression throughout is hovering just under 400psi.

Hoses seem to be in excellent condition, trying to keep this operation to a minimum. Is there a more effective means of examining them besides the bend / crack / brittleness check?

thank you again

Originally Posted by jt20

I didn't even think of the stem seals. Is there any need for concern when not replacing the rings at the same time? Compression throughout is hovering just under 400psi.

If the engine has over 100K miles then you might as well do it when the engine is out since they are 2Xyears old. Its only $30 and with the engine out, where you can lay it on its side and/or you can be be 100% sure the piston is at TDC, the chances of dropping a valve are far less.

[engatwork]

I would not replace the crankshaft unless it is damaged.

[JimFreeh]

Change the gasket between block and oil filter housing.
Replace seals for turbo oil drain.

Jim

[JimFreeh]

Originally Posted by engatwork

I would not replace the crankshaft unless it is damaged.

Unless there is a specific reason to change out the bearings, I'd leave them alone as well. If you have good oil pressure, chances are they will still be fine.

Jim

What is the problem with this engine, why are you doing this?

[Alastair]

Water-pump, all rubber water hoses, belts etc. Oil cooler rubber pipes, Inspect/test radiator, check/replace wiring/fuel-lines as required, re-build injectors, have the injector-pump re-calibrated, phased and balanced.

I wouldnt go mad on the bottom-end. If you have good oil-pressure when fully hot then there will be not much point in replacing bearings as they will have little or no wear. Remove and check nos. 1 and 2 big-end and the nos 1 and 2 main bearings. These are the 'first' that tend to show wear.

Replace chains and guides/tensioner as you say, but might be worth replacing the crank sprocket at the same time.

Valve guide-seals should be replaced, but if the guides are worn, these will not last well--All that extra movement will wear a new seal faster than expected.

Personally, I think you may be going about this the 'wrong' way. I would concentrate on the top-end. Valves, guides, etc. rather than the bottom-end.
The bottom end in these is extremely robust--Its usually only when there's been a no oil/low oil level condition that causes excessive wear/damage to the bottom end..

[vstech]

I will follow this thread. I have My block out due to a failed oil cooler line, and a Stupid PO kept on driving it... (hmm what's that noise up front? )so I gotta replace the crank and possibly some rods... I hope it's not a main.... I will also be pulling the head down for a total rebuild so we'll see...

[jt20]

Originally Posted by engatwork

I would not replace the crankshaft unless it is damaged.

"Unless there is a specific reason to change out the bearings, I'd leave them alone as well. If you have good oil pressure, chances are they will still be fine."

"What is the problem with this engine, why are you doing this? "

"I wouldnt go mad on the bottom-end. If you have good oil-pressure when fully hot then there will be not much point in replacing bearings as they will have little or no wear. Remove and check nos. 1 and 2 big-end and the nos 1 and 2 main bearings. These are the 'first' that tend to show wear."
---------------------------------------------------------------------
This is my motivation:
Prelude to crank rebuild / replace

[jt20]

These are excellent suggestions thank you all! I will update the list when I have more time.

[1983/300CD]

My guess is that he would yell, "Eek, iron horseless carriage!"

[vstech]

Originally Posted by 1983/300CD

My guess is that he would yell, "Eek, iron horseless carriage!"

NAW, come on think about it... what are the chances he would have missed the oil change? His motor would make it OVER 1M miles...

[777funk]

Originally Posted by vstech

NAW, come on think about it... what are the chances he would have missed the oil change? His motor would make it OVER 1M miles...

Didn't Jesus ride around in boats most of the time when he was trying to get somewhere? lol