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  #16  
Old 08-09-2004, 08:33 AM
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Question 300e Won't Start

Autozen,

My car has tall silver relay which has knob at the top. I jumpered point# 1 & 2. Also, dealer checked and said the relay is fine. Now the dealer thinks that fuel distributor may be the problem. I opened the fuel distributor and spayed WD-40 on to little plunger. Put it back together & tried to start, again no luck. It cranks but no start. But this time, the car did not start when I pour little fuel in air intake. Previously, the car used to start when I pour fuel intake.

What's going on?

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  #17  
Old 08-09-2004, 09:51 AM
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Cool

I am curious, have you tried an ignition coil yet? You may want to have the coils available voltage output checked. This is, maybe was, one of the tests that most technicians performed on an engine that was connected to a diagnostic scope. A technician would remove one spark plug wire and monitor the voltage increase to that cylinder, this is more commonly known as spark demand. The maximum output reflected the coils ability to generate sufficient spark. Local auto stores sell a low budget device with a thumb screw that is somewhat self explanatory, in the back ground is a scale that reflects the voltage output. You simply adjust the screw to either increase or decrease the gap between two points. When the ignition coil discharges the voltage will bridge the gap on the tool, the further the spark jumps the stronger the coils output. I believe your ignition coil should have a total reserve of 40K+. You may or may not be capable of getting that high of a reading with this hand held tool so anything >25K demonstrates that the ignition coil has the potential to operate.
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  #18  
Old 08-09-2004, 10:42 AM
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This is a very interesting problem. I don't think there is a problem or was a problem with the fuel d istributer until you dinked with it. In the old days the carburator alwys got blamed for everything, and now it is the fuel distributer. If you are saying that the car will continue to idle after you start it with primer fuel, but won't restart with just the key, it sounds like the fuel pump isn't getting power during the crank phase. You can listen at the fuel pump while someone cranks the engine. You should have two fuel pumps. they both need to function for the car to stay running. Since you are in Texas, I'll assume that you have a 49 state car which means that you could have codes stored in either the ECU or the MAS unit, and the check engine light won't come on. It will only come on if there is an oxygen sensor problem. If you can get ahold of a code counter, you can check for codes at pin# 3 of the box by the battery and by back probing pin# 14 at the MAS unit. A stored code won't keep the car from running but may help point to the problem.

Peter
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  #19  
Old 08-12-2004, 04:42 PM
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Angry 300e Won't Start-fuel Distributor

1990 300E

Anybody has details of fuel distributor? On my mechanic's suggestion, I opened the top portion of fuel distributor. I saw small pin ( push/pull type) at the bottom of top block. Around this pin, there is threaded ring. I didn't see any o-ring. Is this pin called plunger? What is inside the hole in the lower block of fuel distributor?

Basically, I sprayed WD-40 around the pin to eliminate the possibility of pin sticking. Although, when I opened the top block, the pin was free and not sticking. Also, I tried to feel the component inside the lower block. Is there any thing inside the lower block which I may have moved when I tried to feel it using a small screw driver?

Previously, the car used to run when I pour little fuel in air intake, but now, it only cranks & does not run. What did I do? I am trying to undo things, so that at least I can be able to run the car & take it to shop.

Please help.

ps: I have been struggling with this problem for almost a month. Get me out of this misery!
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  #20  
Old 08-14-2004, 12:28 PM
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The pin that sticks is in the bottom, you don't need to disassemble to get to it, it sits on top of the air metering flap arm.

You may have toasted the fuel distributor, I don't recommend taking them apart as they never seem to work properly afterwards.

No start with added fuel is likely the broken rotor carrier, it's fairly common.

Peter
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  #21  
Old 08-15-2004, 09:04 AM
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When I rirst read your last post, I thought you were screwed, because you took the fuel distributor apart. After rereading I realize you are incorrect in your terminology. You removed the whole fuel distributer from the air sensor plate assy. Yes, there is a small o ring that goes around that plunger to seal the opening in the sensor plate assy. I still think you need to check for fuel delivery like I suggested in my previous posts. After you make these checks you can move on to a volume and pressure test taken at the output of the pressure regulator. I believe you said the dealer did this, but I question if it was done according to MB procedure. You can do the test at the input to the distributor and pass the test. Running the test again at the output of the regulator can produce totally different results. Trust me! I know!

Peter
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  #22  
Old 08-15-2004, 10:48 AM
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I agree with Peter, that you probably haven't disassembled the fuel distributer, but just removed it. (hopefully, as disassembly is pretty life threatening).

The simplest test without tools for fuel is to pull one injector still hooked to the fuel line. Bypass the fuel pump relay and press down on the airflow plate. Fuel should flow from the injector. Don't do it long as all the injectors will be flowing and the fuel will go into the motor. Just verify spray.

Replace the injector and have someone crank the motor while you gently press the airflow plate varying the amount of fuel. If there is no attempt to start, forget fuel for the moment.

I hate to point this out, but the costs of repairing from this point could be improved with the simple use of a transporter.
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  #23  
Old 08-17-2004, 01:22 PM
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300e Won't Start-fuel Distributor

Peter & Steve

Thanks for your inputs.

Peter: What is rotor you mentioned in your reply? After removing the fuel distributor, I pressed the air inlet flapper and I saw the rocker ( which pushes the plunger or pin) moves freely up & down.

Steve: I will do the injector test & share with you the result.
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  #24  
Old 08-18-2004, 11:35 PM
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Benzstar,
I don't recall mentioning a rotor. Are you asking about the fuel pressure regulator?

Peter
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  #25  
Old 08-18-2004, 11:51 PM
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[QUOTE=Benzstar]Autozen,

My car has tall silver relay which has knob at the top. I jumpered point# 1 & 2.


If you jumpered 1 & 2 with the MAS removed and the cars starts and runs continuously, you found your problem. The fuel pump relay portion of the MAS would be bad in this case. Unfortunately, it's an all or nothing deal with the MAS.

Been there. $400.00 + brand new

Good luck.
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  #26  
Old 08-19-2004, 08:20 PM
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i replaced the coil on my 87 300e and that took care of the starting problem
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  #27  
Old 08-19-2004, 08:48 PM
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Talking 300 se no start condition.

My 300se had a no start condition as well. When you remove the cap and rotor There is a steel plate under the rotor. Remove the socket head cap screw, apply some penatrating oil and using a plastic mallet tap the plate untill it comes off. The steel plate is keyed so dont sweet the positiion. Pry out the "supressor cover" and "o" ring. The "o" ring resides between the supressor and cap. Note the seal behind the supressor cover. It may be leaking. Motor oil may get in the cap causing the cap to short out. This cover is actualy the bottom half of the distributor cap. Most of the time it is overlooked.
Also I replaced the fuse at the over voltage relay. I did not get the proper readings at the relay. After breaking off the cover I found poor solder joints inside. I replaced the relay and it started right up.
In my case the distributor cap was badly burned coupled with the ovp relay caused a no start condition. I actualy bought the car from a stealer....opps I mean .... dealer as is not running.
What a great bargan!

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