Specialty Oil

Hi guys...
I have been a viewer of this group for a few months and finally decided to register and join the discussions....

I have a 1986 300E,Grey, with 136,000 miles.
Runs like a champ

Question.. What do you guys think of the new oils (there's one from Penzoil, I think) reputed to be specially fromulated for older engines? They claim that it helps seals, etc.
Thanks...and nice to join you.

I've been changing oil on Benzes for years and I can tell you what kind of oil has been used in the engine.I don't know about the latest oils on the market but I can tell you this: You get what you pay for.Stay away from Parafin based oils As they have a tendency to sludge(I cleaned a 119 engine that had been running on penzoil or quaker state for 55 000 miles and spent hours with a butter nife...litterally.The client complaint was "lack of oil pressure")Myself, I use valvoline on my car and never had a problem.Mobil one will give you exelent results But you'll pay for it...

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Certified Mercedes-Benz Technician loving his job

[Michael]

Yeah, they're playing semantics with oil of late. For a fabulous explanation, Pat Bedard does a great job in this month's Car & Driver.

I run Mobil 1 exclusively and have been very happy with it for over 10 years (and about a half a million miles without ANY engine work; 285k on my former Honda Accord which my bro drive, and the rest on my Benzes))

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All the best, Michael
500E
300TE

As a clarification....

I currently run Mobil One....but, I was just wondering if the claims of these oils marketed for "older" engines were legitimate...and what components they might have to help seals.

Thanks

[johngray]

My gut reaction is that it is probably a marketing ploy, like the oil for trucks and 4X4s that one company (Quaker State?) is touting. Massive advertising adds to cost of the oil.

[Kebowers]

Depends. Since I am a 'real expert' in this area (for real)-a few words. (For gasoline engine drivers) Personally I run Mobil 1 in my 560SEL and change it twice a year (about 5000 miles) Do not try and run any oil longet than that unless you live on the freeway and rack up lots of miles. Freeway cruising use would be good for up to 15,000 miles with Mobil 1 and similar products.

For almost all town driving, the best and most economical system is premium quality 10W-30 or 10W-40 changed (with filter) every 3 months/3,000 miles. Oil is real cheap compared to hard parts. But buying good gasoline is equally important. Stick with major branded gasoline. Here in Houston, Chevron and Texaco are the two best. Fuel detergent additive package is vital to engine cleanliness and life.

For MBZ diesels, use products recomended in your owners manual with faithful regular oil and filter changes (3000 mi max), buy good fuel, and keep the injectors clean and working right.

[TedG]

I don't think Quaker State is necessarily worse than Valvoline. And if it's made with paraffin, I wouldn't necessarily blame that for sludge, based on one engine. How was the engine maintained? API specs (SH, CH-4, etc.) all have requirements for detergency, dispersancy, etc. Get the latest API spec (S=gas, C=diesel) and do proper, timely oil changes. By the way, Mobil Delvac 1 is some amazing stuff for diesels, I'm told. Synthetics can tend to permeate (leak) a little more than conventionals, but make up for it on the inside where they keep things a lot cleaner. That'll be 2 cents.

[Mr. BILL]

Is it too late to switch to synthetic? My '90 300SE has 230K on it. During its life, it has had frequent 3K-4K oil changes with alot of highway miles.

It presently leaks a little at the timing chain cover but doesn't seem to consume much oil. Am I looking for trouble if I switch to synthetic?

Thanks,

Mr. BILL

90 300SE
85 300D
84 300SD (sold)

[MikeTangas]

Ted,

The parafin based oils will, and do, sludge up an engine. Some brands are worse than others though. Back home we had a parafin based brand called "Amalie", which was touted as being 'better than it had to be'. I never used it, and after buying a Pontiac with the 400 HO, that had spent it entire life on Amalie, I vowed I never would. When I pulled the valve covers to replace leaking gaskets, I found that the top of the heads were completely encased in a waxy paste. The push rods and valve springs were completely surrounded with this stuff.

It took a lot of digging and scraping to remove most of this crud. Afterwards I drained the oil and filled the crankcase with diesel and ran the engine to clean the innerds. Took a couple diesel rinsings and cheap oil flushes, but I got her cleaned out. I never did have to crack open the crankcase so I don't know how bad the internal passages were clogged. But based on the tops of the heads, I have to imagine the were pretty bad.

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Mike Tangas
73 280 SEL 4.5

It sounds like kebowers knows all the words to the same songs that I know.

I remember seeing engines come apart in the fifties and sixties that had been running Havoline or Amalie. As Mike said the gunk was beyond description. It would sometimes be inside a valve cover as if it the entire cavity had been pumped full of this dull black looking goo.

I don't see this anymore. Of course, I don't see near as many engines apart as I used to, but still this just doesn't seem to happen, even in a neglected engine.

I would imagine that seeing that gunk is what turned me into the crankcase draining maniac that I am today. However, even with the much better oils we have, I still believe that nothing beats frequent and thorough oil changes.

Have a great day,

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Larry Bible
'01 C Class, Six Speed
'84 Euro 240D, manual, 533K miles
'88 300E 5 Speed
'81 300D Daughter's Car
Over 800,000 miles in
Mercedes automobiles