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#16
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hey mike tangas
as I said before, getting the cellsis kind of hard but if it is necesary I will.
Supposing there are bubles trapped in the back of the system, if I take them out and leave fluid only, will the bouncing get worse or better? |
#17
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Quote:
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Regards Warren Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL ENTER > = (HP RPN) Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. |
#18
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Even if you bleed all of the nitrogen out of the system the ride will still be hard. The continued hard ride will eventually ruin the rear struts. The accumulators are what provide the shock dampening.
If the spheres cost $500 each where you live, struts will probably be $1,000 each.
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Mike Tangas '73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72 '02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis 2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel Non illegitemae carborundum. |
#19
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Someone mentioned a filter. Where is it? I see the strainer thing (like the one in the master cylinfer) but nothing else.
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Sent from an agnostic abacus 2014 C250 21,XXX my new DD ** 2013 GLK 350 18,000 Wife's new DD** - With out god, life is everything. - God is an ever receding pocket of scientific ignorance that's getting smaller and smaller as time moves on..." Neil DeGrasse Tyson - You can pray for me, I'll think for you. - When you understand why you dismiss all the other possible gods, you will understand why I dismiss yours. |
#20
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The fluid recycles to the levelling valve, only. After the levelling valve there is only a "goes into" line to the accumulators and then from there to the struts. The struts are no more than a hydraulic ram, that sets the ride height. All the damping effects come from the accumulators. When they fail the entrained Nitrogen goes into solution with the oil, and stays dissolved in the oil, in the accumulator area. When you crack the bleeder valve the oil from the strut goes out the supply line and you get this foaming action as the oil comes to atmospheric pressure, and the Nitrogen comes out of solution.
Allowing the car to operate with the fluid in the system "solid" which means without a compliant cushion of pressurized gas will fatigue the Aluminum mounting threads in the strut mount to the suspension (bottom of the strut as it is mounted in the car). The strut is a steel extrusion and has a male thread at the bottom that engages female threads in the Aluminum mount. When the fluid system is solid the response to road irregularities you feel as "bouncy" begins to overstress these Aluminum female threads and they eventually rip out. The fix is a new strut. They are about 4 times the cost of a Nitrogen sphere. If having items like this shipped from Germany is feasible, get in touch with Andreas at www.dbdepot.de since I have recently purchased a strut and a set of spheres I can report the cost was about $95 or so for each sphere and about $300 for the strut. Shipping brought the total bill to about $550. Make sure you get a proper wrench for taking the lines off the spheres, as rounding those little guys is a major problem. My son got impatient and ruined one, and had to use a Dremel tool to cut the sphere off the line. Then he had to restore flats so he could wrench the thing again. He spent at least 4 hours under the car on one side, and then with the flare nut wrench of the right size and a few applications of a pentrant, the other side came off in a few minutes. Good luck and I hope this helped. Jim
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Own: 1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles), 1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000, 1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles, 1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles. 2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles Owned: 1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law), 1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot), 1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned), 1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles), 1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep) |
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