Hi, i have a problem on my 89 300E, the turn signals seem to not work properly. When i use the right turn signal, only the rear signal flashes, while the front doesnt.

The left turn signal flashes both left and right front lenses, but the rear left side doesnt blink at all, but on the cluster the arrow flickers like it should.

Another weird thing is, when i have my headlights on, on the cluster the left turn signal arrow stays on. Even when im not using it at all. The signals dont work at all either, when the lights are on.

My high/low beams work fine, reverse lights work fine, and the brake lights work fine. Only problem i see is that the hazards lights dont work.

Any ideas on how to get this fixed?

Tried searchin but didnt turn up anything.

Thanks!

Bump!

Btw would i be able to use a jumper pin from another fuse and see if it works correctly?

You have a ground problem. Start looking for corrosion or loose ground points.

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Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

Flashers function based on the amount of resistance in the circuit, so if a filament burns out, the flasher usually won't work properly.

Check all the bulbs.

Duke

Did you solve the problem?

I have similar problem from tonight.

When the headlamps are off,
all turn signals work fine with the usual audible click.

When the headlamps are on,
left turn signals are steadily on at max brightness. The left-pointing green arrow is also steadily on. They do not blink even when push down the turn signal lever.
When I push up the turn signal lever, right turn signals and right-pointing green arrow blink, the left turn signals and left-pointing green arrow are steadily on, and there is no audible click sound or the click sound is of low loudness.

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1992 300D 2.5 turbo diesel. 319 k miles.
124.128 chassis, 602.962 engine, 722.418 tranny.

Still havent solved the problem yet. I tried using a jumper to see if the voltage was low or not, which didnt seem to be the case. I also switched out some fuses, still a no go. Next step is to change the bulbs to oe, because the ones that are there are some cheap-o kragen brand.

Takedown, the OEM is Osram Sylvania. These bulbs/lamps are available at various auto supply stores. Pep Boys used to carry them. So check locally before placing an order online or buying them at a MB dealer. It's critical that they are the correct wattage; otherwise the electrical system may malfunction. Check your Owner's Manual for the design wattage of the various lamps.

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Fred Hoelzle

This morning, I removed the fron left turn signal bulb from the white socket and reinstalled it.
No problem anymore.

I will replace the socket anyway, because I find some crack on the white plastic.
One pin hole on the black plastic that accepts the pin on the white socket has greeny rust. But I do not know what to do for this.

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1992 300D 2.5 turbo diesel. 319 k miles.
124.128 chassis, 602.962 engine, 722.418 tranny.

thakdown and ktlimq;

If the dash arrow comes on when the lights are turned on then the front or possibly the rear turnsignal bulb is not grounded. To find out which it is, turn off the turnsignals and turn on the lights. Take them out one at a time and see if the arrow goes out. The bulb that turned out the arrow when removed is not grounded. The problem can be in the socket (the metal sleeve that holds the bulb in) or in the ground wire for the socket. To prove that the ground is the problem, use a jumper wire connected to a GOOD CLEAN ground and touch the other end of the jumper to the shell of the bulb while it is turned on.
I use a 12V test light to check things like this. If you conect the test light clip to a good ground and probe the shell of the bulb with it on and the test light comes on (usually dimly) then the bulb is not grounded.

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84 500 SEL (307,xxx miles)