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#1
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Home Made Bleeder - URL
Any reason why this WOULDNT work?
LINK Apparently this was done by a BMW E36 guy, so a GM cap worked......any idea if it'll work on benzes (more specifically an M119) I've never used one before so i am not 100% sure as to how the procedure works. I take it you do what ever you need to do to the brakes....like changing calipers or whatever. Then you remove the brake reservoir top, attach the vacuum bleeder. Pump it up to suck out the bubbles then....what? Remove it put back the cap on the reservoir and hit road? any instructions on how to make one for a benz? |
#2
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Look familiar?
The expensive version the only real difference is the $ one has a diaphragm in between the pressurized air and the brake fluid. It keeps humidity out of the fluid. If you use new brake fluid every time you use the bleeder, that's not a factor. He used a GM cap because it fit his master cylinder. We might need a MB cap. Cheap enough. Note that the GM cap had a small relief groove that he had to fill with RTV. Enjoy,
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Norm in NJ ![]() Next oil change at 230,000miles |
#3
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I was trying to figure out if something very generic such as a GM cap would also work. Something I can find at pep boys as opposed to a trip to the dealer.
But besides that, does anybody know what the procedure is for using a pressure bleeder? Is it really just as simple as sucking at the reservoir and bingo? |
#4
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I used a cap from a Volvo on my 93 300SD and you do not suck the fluid out, you pressurize the system maybe about 10 to 15 lbs Too much pressure could blow seals. After system is pressurized you open the bleeders at the wheels starting with the RR, then LR, Then RF, and then the LF. Do one wheel at a time and hold open until clean fluid comes out. If you run out of fluid you will have to start over. Good luck
PS: before starting remove as much fluid as possible from the master cylinder A turkey baster will work |
#5
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European cars all use the same cap. The Motive pressure bleeder I have works with both my MB & my Volvo. You should be able to get a cap at an auto parts store. If not, you could order one from here from FastLane. Get one for either an MB or Volvo -- which ever is cheaper.
Jeff Pierce
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Jeff Pierce Current Vehicles: '92 Mercedes 190E/2.3 (247K miles/my daily driver) '93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon (263K miles/a family truckster with spunk) '99 Kawasaki Concours Gravely 8120 Previous Vehicles: '85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow (226K miles)'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon '53 Willys-Overland Pickup '85 Honda 750F Interceptor '93 Nissan Quest '89 Toyota Camry Wagon '89 Dodge Raider '81 Honda CB 750F Super Sport '88 Toyota Celica '95 Toyota Tacoma '74 Honda CB 550F |
#6
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An old timer named Don, who used to post regularly here posted the direction and provided pictures, which Ashman hosted. I imagine a search of the posts or archives would produce the results you are looking for. I built mine after reading Don's directions. Works great.
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Mike Tangas '73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP ![]() Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72 '02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis 2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel Non illegitemae carborundum. |
#7
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Quote:
yeah I came across that when I searched but the website is dead. |
#8
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I also need to know how to bleed the master cylinder once it's already fitted. My friend owns a lexus and we're not sure if the dealer bench bled the master cylinder before replacing it. will the air in the m/c eventually leave the system through bleeding the system from the callipers ? or will it be left trapped unless the m/c is bled on it's own ?
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Whether you think you can or cannot, Either way you're right!. by Henry Ford. |
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