I have to replace my transmission again. Last time I pulled the engine and transmission as a unit since I needed to rework the motor. This time the motor is OK. Can I remove just the transmission without a lot of difficulty or would it be easier to pull it all out again? I really dont want to disturb the engine if I don't have to. Car is an 89 300E.

No help here Cap'n...Just saying it is good to see you.

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Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

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Non illegitemae carborundum.

That means a lot to me, thanks!!!

Sure, sure, you'll find the transmission itself pulled out with boring regularity, no sweat......

Gilly

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Due to the balance of the drivetrain, and I mention this because I noticed it when I had my motor and transmission assembled on a jig, the entire assembly is balanced at the motor mounts. There is very little weight at the rear of the transmission like there is in American rear wheel drive cars. Does this mean that the engine will dive at the front when the tranny is disconnected? Will I have to remove the fan and radiator hoses? Maybe just jack up the front of the engine so that it doesn't dive?

I just did this last week on an 87 300e. I have a lift in my garage which made it easier. It is pretty straight forward overall. You don't need to do anything to the front of the engine. The hardest part is getting the two top bolts out. First I disconnected the torque convertor, tranny cooling lines, speedo cable, neutral safety switch wire, backup light, etc. from below the car. From above you need to remove the kickdown cable from the throttle assembly, and the vacum line to the modulator. These will both stay with the tranny. From the rear you need to get the driveshaft out of the way. My exhaust was off at the time for repair as well so this was easy. Next I loosened and removed all the bolts that were easy to get at but left the bottom ones in. I then removed the rear cross member while supporting the tranny. Once the crossmember was out I lowered the tranny so that the whole engine/tranny combo hung at an angle. The rear of the tranny dropped about 6 to 8 inches. This gave me the room to get a very long extension and universal onto the upper bolts all the way from the rear of the tranny. Once they were out I raised the tranny back to level and put two milk crates (stacked) under the tranny. I then removed the final 2 lower bolts and slid the tranny straight back. Once it was clear of the engine I raided the car out of the way.

Wow!! That was a good post Pete911!!! Thanks!! Send me your cell phone number just in case I run into a problem!!! Just kidding!! Thanks again!!

O.K. I finally got it out. I suppose that my biggest problem, other then working on my back, was getting the bolt out of the dipstick tube. It's a Allen screw and it rounded out when I tried to turn it. After hours of trial and error, I finally just put the Vise Grips on it and loosened it. I hooked my engine hoist to the front of the engine and lifted it until the tranny was as far down as it would go. It took all the half inch drive extensions I could find and a flex socket (I didn't have a 17 MM flex socket so I used an 11/16" from my impact set) and went over the top of the trannny. With floor jack under the tranny I wiggled it out and it slid right out. Now udnderstand that I did this alone. I can assure you that when it goes back in I WILL have some help!!! BTW, as I suspected it would, the front of the engine dives when the tranny is separated. So be prepared. The stabilizer bar will catch it but someone could get a finger pinched if you aren't careful!!