After isolating a front end squeek/groan to the ball joint I started the R&R in the manner I'm used to with other cars. Remove the wheel, disconnect sway bar, remove the ball joint pinch bolt, pickle fork the ball joint to seperate while supporting the a-arm with a floor jack. All went fine until I lowered the floor jack and found the a-arm ball joint jamming against the dust cover/brake disk on the way down. At this point I reluctantly looked in the service cd only to find Mercedes recommends removing the a-arm for ball joint replacement. Surely this isn't required.

At this point it looks like I have to remove the dust cover which involves removing the brake caliper and wheel hub/brake disk so I can lower the a-arm fully. Is this correct or is it possible to force the a-arm past the dust cover as is?

Thanks
Jorg

Try using a big fat chisel in the split where the bolt pulls together. This should give you enough play to make the pin of the ball joint slide out. Yeah, it kinda hits up against the dust shield. It'll do that when you put it together later. just work with it. Also helps to remove the tie-rod end from knuckle.

No man. Remove the caliper, detach tie rod, unbolt the strut at the top and remove the hub and strut as an assembly. You need the room to work.

Possible to do on car, but do not let that spring fly and kill ya.

Popping balljoint out with hammer is not too bad with control arm on car, but install is tricky in that position.

It really is much easier with the CA removed, and sitting in a vise.

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1986 300E 5-Speed 240k mi.

Too late! I already popped it off with everything still attached. I might have a problem getting the new ball joint back into the control arm because it just cleared when it came out. Didn't have any problems removing the balljoint with a balljoint press. Used the original adapter that came with the press but will make a custom adapter for the other side when it needs to be done.

Funny thing, the new Lemforder ball joint pressed in with my fingers. That can't be right, right? I've got an exchange comming for it this afternoon. Where there different size balljoints used on the W124 or is this most likely a manufacturing defect?

"Funny thing, the new Lemforder ball joint pressed in with my fingers. That can't be right, right? I've got an exchange comming for it this afternoon. Where there different size balljoints used on the W124 or is this most likely a manufacturing defect?"

Something's not right. Your balljoint and CA both have the same number as mine.

If you put the (proper)new one in the freezer, it will press in easier.

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1986 300E 5-Speed 240k mi.

Weird! I just picked up a ball joint from Mercedes and it looks like it will also be too loose. The ball joint should be a press fit right? This one also looks like it is a thou too small. I can push it in by hand.

Worst case should I red Locktite it, or tack weld it in? I have heard that some of the newer models have the ball joints tack welded into place and that you have to grind the welds off to remove them.


Jorg

Makes no sense. Locktite is not near strong enough. The entire weight of the car is conspiring to knock the joint down through the arm. I guess it could be welded, but still makes no sense to me. I have done 3 pairs of these. They all pressed in tight.

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1986 300E 5-Speed 240k mi.