![]() |
|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
1988 300e
well i am new to this forum. i am interested in buying one of these models or anything that looks similar to it. my question is how deep am i getting myself into with these cars(mercedes in general). i have close friends with import performance shops, but they tell me about special tools are needed and are a pain to work on. but being my close friends they will do it. so i just need help with that question i guess. any other advice. thanks, if its in the wrong forum, sorry.
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
I've never owned a car that didn't need special tools and had some tasks that were a pain if you had never done them before.
The late eighties/early nineties 124, 126, and 201 sedans are probably some of the best cars Mercedes ever built, and some of the best sedans ever built by any manufacturer - strong, solid, superb touring cars - relatively light and gadget free cars that offer good performance and fuel efficiency and comfortable and durable interior accomodations. Like all cars they have some weak points - head gaskets on the inline-six, drive shaft flex disks, A/C evaporators on the 124s, and though the KE III fuel system works well, it can be a bear to fix if something goes wrong because it is rather complicated to someone who lacks system knowledge of its operation. On the other hand, I've never owned a car that allowed the coolant to be changed so quickly, easily, and mess-free. Best to seek out a car that has maintenance records, and check that basic recommended maintenance, particularly all fluid changes (including brake fluid and coolant), have been done over the life of the car. High mileage is not necessarily bad if the car has been maintained and properly repaired as things go wrong. Also, go for a car that is not modified in any way. Attempts to turn these cars into hotrods are more likely to detract from their overall goodness than enhance it. When things go wrong stick with OE or OE equivalent parts from quality manufacturers. Duke |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
Welcome, and the best advice anyone can give you is do a search here.
With regard to the car its all a matter of opinion. The cars are pretty durable and pretty much every problem with them is known and can be fixed. The problem is these cars are as much as 20 years old now ![]() P.s It may still need work when you find it. 20 years old man, come on ![]() |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
I have a 89 300e, that I bought used with 130K on it. It is my first mercedes and like you I dwas pretty nervious about the whole thing. But my wife just had to have the car even against my better judgement.
The car now is getting ready to turn 250k. I am by no means a mechinace by trade. I enjoy working on my own cars though, and have had to replace the usual parts that go out, water pump, alt, belt tensioner, ect.. I'm pretty tight with all the local salavge yards, due to the price of mercedes parts. But I must say the car has been very good to us and even though it's older, there's a certian mistique about driving a mercedes. People just automatically think different of you because of it. I can't say for sure but depending on the deal and the shape of the car I don't think you can go wrong |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
thanks for all the help
thank everyone for all the help, but how much of a cost difference is there when it comes to parts. keep in mind that i was once in the import racing, and i do know about high costs of japanese parts and other performance mods. and i do konw about dealers high rate costs aswell, but how much price difference is there really. oh, by the way, i am a college student and working a part time job. the love of cars in general i cant shake. if its not one car im working on its another, but 300e is not to race, only to look good in. thanks again all for your help.
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Sounds like a good subject for your senior thesis. Don't college English classes teach anything about capitalization anymore?
![]() Duke |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
typing
hey i just type. im not getting graded on this now. but thanks for the advice, i will remember that on my next essay. but now to the point. i was looking at pictures online, and i am really starting to like the 1985 500 sec models. can i get some suggestions on this car.
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Well....With some of your criteria being Lookin' Good , you would certainly "Look Gooder" in a 500SEC than a 300E,
but, being a student and being practical [at the same time] , the "Look Good" of the 300E is not too bad either....after all, it is a Benz, Right ??? Problem with all of this is, of course, how good/gooder does one look when they are not wearing their car... I woud vote for a good 300E for ya....that way, you will prolly still own it when you graduate. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Unless you have more money that good sense, the 300e is a much better buy. They are inexpensive and an SEC won't be -- collector cars.
Capitalization isn't an establisment conspiracy, it's a convention to make it easier to read printed material. Save your rebellion for things that count, like goverment corruption. Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Looking Good??
I remember when I was in high school, when my friends and I were teens our major pre-occupation were girls and sex.
The consensus in school was, if you are good looking, any car will do. But, if you are ugly, a good looking car is necessary. |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
misinterpreted
ok guys i think you misunderstood what i meant. i like cars alot. i fix them up. and not always for racing for, but also to look good. i cant seem to let them be in a stock condition. im always working on mods. what ever it takes for me to be happy. now i dont think you will like what i say next, but im future mods are to put an amg wide body kit with an air bag set up. the original sound system will be removed and an aftermarket system will be replaced. wheels also will have to go. but my main concern is that the car needs to be in an excellent condition before all this takes place. that is my definition of looking good.
|
#12
|
||||
|
||||
Back to the issue of parts prices.
You can buy OEM quality pats for MBs at a dozen or more WEB sites for far less than what a dealer charges. There was a time when you might have noticed a large spread in pricing between say Ford and MB or Toyota and MB. I do not believe that large spread exists anymore IF you focus on OEM parts from WEB providers. The 300E is a more rational choice at this stage. For it's age, I don't see it costing anymore to maintain than any other 16 year old car.
__________________
Mike Murrell 1991 300-SEL - Model 126 M103 - SOHC "Fräulein" |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
thanks mike
but what might be some of the major problems that might occur. i talked to a friend of mine who by the way is wealthy, he says he hasnt seen a MB go over 15000 miles without something happening, is this true or just bad luck for him, he drives an 1997 E class. oh and for an example, his sunroof went off track and it cost him i think 1200 or 1500 to fix that. is this just for the newer models or is it for both older(80's and below) and newer(90's and up) models. by the way this forum is great i have learned alot just by your discussions. i appreciate everyones help. thanks alot. by the way im in houston is there anyone else here from houston?
|
#14
|
|||
|
|||
I bought an 89 300E a few months ago and it was a one owner , garage kept and dealer serviced car. I have owned Audis (5000, 5000T, 200, A6) and currently have two 2003 Ford products (truck and van) and this "old" Benz is a more solid car than any of them (probably on par with the A6 as far as how it feels and the lack of sqeaks and rattles).
I too was concerned about the reliability of the car but after driving those old Audis I am more than used to finiky German cars! LOL So far the Benz has been very impressive. As far as cost of parts...I just did the rear brakes on the car myself (first time they have ever been changed) and bought the parts at Orielly's Auto parts. I was shocked that they had everything I needed and even more shocked at the price. Rear pads $12 complete and bought two new rotors for $29 a piece. THAT IS CHEAP. Replaced the rotors and pads on both sides in less than an hour. I think I am gonna like this car! ![]() |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
thanks Satch
hey thanks that helped out alot. i just looked on the oreilly auto parts web site and found alot of parts. seems that they are not to much more in cost than what i normally pay(honda parts). so i just wanted to say thank you.
|
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|