How hard is it to change out all the old rubber? Could I do it in 2-3 hrs if I had a lift? Parts cost? My car squeaks in the rear when I sit inn it.
Thanks.

The bushings in the links are vulcanized in place are are actually part of the spring, the steel center is bolted down hard, doesn't move. The bushing at the spring link (aka lower control arm) is easy to replace, but you must remove the spring.

This isn't a terribly hard job, but I would need to know what needed fixing before being too specific. The links are a pain -- there is one LONG bolt one must back a locker nut off one flat at a time due to lack of clearance, and on some models this is an eccentric screw, so you MUST turn the nut. New links require new bolts as they are actually from the 210 chassis, I believe, and different bolts are used with them. Otherwise only time consuming.

Locate the squeak (it could be a shock, too!) and examine the rubber in the links in the rear. Distortion, torn rubber, or "shedding" of rubber in strings are a sign they need replacement.

At least one supplier sells a "kit" -- torque, thrust, camber, and tie rod links plus bolts, last price I heard was around $250. Probably worth it to do all of the, followed by a four wheel alignment. For the effort, I'd personally probably do new spring seats and spring link bushings and have a new rear suspension.

Note that there are also four subframe mounts and four differential mounts, probably need those, too.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Peter
I am planning to do the very same procedure on my 300TE: exchanging all links, rubber parts, subframe- and differential mounts.
Do you remember the source of that kit? I think 250$ would be considerably chaper than buying parts individually. By the way, would you recommend changing the accumulators at the same time for convenience (do they age at all?).
Your and other people's input is very much appreciated.
Bruno

I'm getting ready to do this same job as well on my '86 300E. The rubber bushings are shot in at least one pair of arms, so I've been gathering parts to replace all the suspension arms, the subframe and differential mounts etc. When replacing the link arms, I believe that when you tighten all the nuts and bolts you have to make sure that the rear suspension is sitting at the same level as when it's on the ground under it's own weight. Otherwise, the rubber components will be stressed all the time and wear out very prematurely. I imagine that there must be a particular requirement, like the driveshafts must be level, or something like that, but I just don't know offhand what it is. Maybe someone else can chime in and enlighten us.

The suspension must be level when you tighten the bolts because the center sleeve doesn't rotate on the bolt, it's held down tight and the rubber acts as a spring. This is also why you cannot replace the rubber only.

If you don't do this, the car will sit a couple inches high and the wheels will be out of place, really looks and rides strange.

I think I remember it was Rusty at BuyMBparts, but I'm not really sure, worth a call. Thrust links are about $35 each at FastLane, torque links $25, camber links similar, so it's not a huge discount. I don't believe the mounts were included, just the 8 links.

Plan on plenty of time, this job can be a bear -- it' rather difficult to get the wheel carrier end of the torque strut bolt in, and it takes a long time to get the locker nuts off -- no access.

Accumulators should only be replaced when the ride gets hard -- it will eventually get so bad that the rear suspension doesn't move, the only spring left is the tires, and it will bounce terribly. Obviously, you don't want to wait THAT long... If it rides harder than is should, replace. Requires removing the trim panel between the rear and third seat (or storage compartment if you don't have the third seat) -- two screws hidden in the carpet mid-panel, two on the edges beside the seat or storage cover. Accumulators are actually inside, but he hydraulic lines nad retaining bolts are outside.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Many thanks for your sensible comments, Peter. I will wait with the accumulators. I have found information that in order to install everything (all links and mounts), it is easiest to remove the rear axle/subframe - escpecially the rear subframe mounts are supposed too be removable much easier this way (with a hammer). Has anyone here tried this way as well?
Bruno