My parking brake hasn't been holding for quite some time. The pedal clicks down 4 or 5 clicks, but the brake doesn't hold well on a hill. I've tried to adjust the mechanism through the slot in the hub, but one side just never gets any tighter.

I've removed the caliper, but can't get the disc off. Is there anything else that should be removed or for that matter anything I shouldn't remove. I've lubricated and pounded on it with a rubber mallet, but no luck.

I notice an allen head screw on the disc and also a bolt down the center with a larger washer on it. Should they be removed and do I have to remove the sheet metal backing behind the disc in order to hit it properly?

Thanks,

Steve

Yes, you do have to remove the allen head screw. It's holding your disc on. The large bolt is just inside the hole in the disc. No need to touch it. It holds bearings and stub axles inside the rear upright. I removed my rear discs to check the parking brake linings with a couple of whacks from a plastic hammer. The rubber one seemed to bounce off with no shock.

The parking brake shoes are kind of cute, like an itty bitty drum brake without the hydraulics.

If you adjust them, I'd recommend loosening the cable adjustment first. That way, the brakes can be adjusted without the cables interfering. Then, when the shoes work the way you want them to, adjust the cable for the "4 clicks to hold" that the book wants.

__________________
Norm in NJ
Next oil change at 230,000miles

Yes you have to remove the allen screw and also to make things easier, turn back/loosen your parking brake shoes by turning the adjuster . Look into the rear disc through one of the wheel bolt threads and turn the disc until you see the adjuster use a flashlight to make things easier.

Thanks for the info guys. Just a couple of questions. Which way do I turn the adjuster and how do I adjust the cable? Is the cable adjustment under the car or elsewhere? Also, do I just wack the front of the disc to break loose the rust or do I have to hit it from the rear.

Steve

I Removed the allen head screw.
lubricated it.
heated it.
Banged it with a sledge.
Pulled on it and cursed it.

Help!!!!!!!! How do I get the damn thing off.

I finally got both rotors off by lubricating, heating, and banging the rotors with a sledge. Is hard to believe that rust would be so formidable.

Now however I'm trying to loosen the cable enough so that I can remove the pin and remove the cable from the actuating mechanism. On a 560sl, does anyone know how to loosen the brake cable. It appears to me that the adjustment for the cable is obscured by the exhaust. Is this correct?

Hi, After doing the search and reading the Q&A on parking brakes I would like to know if anyone knows where I can find diagrams and instructions for doing the work? I am a visual learner and like pictures.

I assume the the parking brake shoes are in some way hidden behind (inside) the rotors and I would like to know how I can tell if there is any lining material on the shoes without removing the rotors? I would prefer not to beat on the rotors with out knowing what I should do to if I need to replace the shoes.

I see that the cost of parts is about $35.00 If anyone has done this what should I watch out for? Thre is plenty of lining on the braking pads but just wanted to check out the parking brake too.

Is there any adjustment that is made to the parking brake cables?

I read Ethans' answer to sms and the others and I will check this out.

Thanks for all of your help, Monty

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Monty

Monty,

This is what I have learned from removing the rotors.

1) Condition of brake shoes can only be observed once rotors are removed.
2) Adjustment of e-brake can be made at wheel or by adjusting rear cable, however adjusting screw on rear cable can only be reached once exhaust is removed.
3) Eventhough shoes are not worn they can become brittle and lose their holding ability.
4) Removing rotors requires removing caliper and set screw and then lubricating, heating, and banging the heck out of it from behing with a sledge.
5) Install new or old rotors with a lot of anti-seize.

Steve

When you reassemble the brake rotors to hubs, wire brush and if needed, lightly sand the rust off the hub. Also clean up the mating surfaces of the rotor including the large center hole. Then lightly coat the mating surfaces of the rotor with an anti-seize paste. This will make it a little easier for the next person to remove the rotor. Of course, check the thickness of the rotor and replace if it is at or below minimum thickness or if the inner drum surface is damaged. Try not to invent too many new cuss words when you attempt to install the new E-brake shoes.