OK

You asked for possible tool hook-up
The tool has 3 wires
RED, BLK, and ODD color
The blk is - and goes to pin 1 on the "16 pin connector box "
The red is + and goes to pin 16 on the "16 pin connector box"
The reason the tool has these two color banannas is cuz red/blk are standard +/- colors for 12v DC testers/meters.
so, we use the ODD color to go to the different other pins that connect to each different module to get the codes for THAT MODULE.
We use an ODD color so you can't screw up the hook up.....
On the '16 PIN diagnostic box", pin 5 is for the ASD module, pin 6 is for the SRS module, 7 is AC , and 4 is the EDS [ Electronic Diesel System] module.
This should be the module you have the code chart for.. I do not have Diesel code chart, but I belive this #4 is where yuo can go get the codes from if you plug the ODD color Bannana plug in there after you power the tool up with #1 and #16 hooked/plugged as instructed...
Now , you key on, press button 2/3 secs , release , and count the flashes as they come back
that's it
Clraring is same , except it is 8/9 secs after code has flashed....

Arthur,

That's absolutely great info. Crystal clear.

Will built and try it this weekend.

Thanks Again,

Phil

I built the Fault Code Reader described in this thread by Fred, and tried it on my '95 E300D. It works. I was able to retrieve all of the existing fault codes, as well as clear them.

I don't have a check engine light, but I knew that I will find some pre-existing fault codes set into memory. These codes resulted from a past wiring harness problem which I subsequently repaired.

This $8.00 home-built Fault Code Reader is extremely useful, not to mention how cheap it is.


Phil

Back in love after our little scuffle.
 

Many thanks to all who have helped with words of wisdom and experience. I have replaced the EA/CC module (the fancy and expensive cruise amp). All is well. Extra thanks to Arthur and your tool build, (An Altoids Mint can makes a great housing as well) as well as the code translations. Also thanks to Phil at FastLane for providing the right part at a much better price than the stealership. The clicking is gone from the cabin. The hesitation and idle problems are fixed and the cruise works again. The best part was the "easy as pie" replacement which took all of 5 min. So now on to the smaller problems but I hope I can knock them out without having to go to school too much like ......fix the jammed sunroof.......replace power mirror switch...etc. Anyway, while I'm spouting, I have both factory service manuals for a 86-87 W124 chassis, and Engine 103, and an owners manual for the 300E. I would really love to trade them for a set that would cover my 95 E320.... any takers?

Just when I thought I was out of the woods
 

Check Engine light back on today. (Grumble Grumble) :confused: Car runs well but a little sluggish. Pulled the codes here they are.

On Board LED flash

2 = Heated O2 sensor inoperative
3 = Lambda control inoperative
5 = EGR inoperative

Using tool pin#8

9 = O2 sensor
13 = O2 sensor limit
42 = CAN communication?

Using tool pin#14

1 = no codes?

So I am now pondering an O2 sensor replacement. Although with the mild "rotten egg" smell from time to time I believe the Cat Converter is possiby shot as well. So if it is the Cat also how well do the aftermarket "universal fit" units work versus the factory pipe and cat assembly. Any Ideas? Further Diagnosis? Lastly I translated these codes from previous posts, If any seem wrong please let me know.

On these EFI systems, there are a couple of test a DIYer can do to check 02 sens and loop ..

Under the passenger seat is the connector for the 02 sens
If you unplug the signal line , you can take direct 02 sensor readings w/DMM...
The test requires creating engine mixture inputs to the sensor [ ie, you control the mix at the engine and see if the sens responds]
With engine up to temp, you can take the vac hose off the fuel pressure regulator [ plug the hose so you do not have vac leak]. This makes the engine run rich.. look at the meter and see if the reading responds by going close to 1 v.
Next, hook that back up and this time disconnet the vac line going accross to the SOVs in front of the engine . This is your created vac. leak and will cause the engine to run lean.. again, see if the 02 responds to this induced lean fuel mixture...the meter should drop down low [about .1 v.]
You can check the responce speed of the sensor here by simply putting you thumb on that disconnected vac hose end and open/close the leak and watch the meters response to your open/close of the hose end... should be at a good clip..
Also, while you are there,test the heater circuit of the sensor for power and heater ohms. If these test show 02 action, you may want to do some further investigations before changing the sensor..
Now, you will notice that you have an EGR fault on the Emmissions DM..you will also notice that you have 02 sens limit code on the HFM /SFImodule.
So, the 2 questions that arise here are , is the detected limit fault caused by a rich or lean condition.. the flash codes are not refined enough to give you that info [ whereas, a HHT digital scanner will give you a definitive rich/lean condition], but at least for the diy guy, you have something..
So, we just check both.. the first place to look for possible rich limit is the fuel pressure regulator.. when these usually go bad , the diapragm leaks and allows fuel to be sucked into the intake. And at the same time , the reg can not keep the fuel pressure in check and you wind up rich beyond the limits of the 02 sens to correct. So, look here for fuel in the vac line at reg..should be none.
For lean condition, we look around for vac leaks .. hoses everywhere..check them all...
Now, back to the EGR ..if the egr valve is sticking ,[very common on your chaassis and there has even been a part design change /campaigne for sticking EGR--archieves], two interesting things will happen.. The ECU will call for egr opening/closing , but if the egr sticks open when not needed, it will cause an engine lean condition..and the DM sees this as a fault , not only for the egr vac , but also for the 02 sensors reacting to the leanness and not being able to correct..so, a combo code DM-5/HFM -9,13..
A sticking egr shows up as a vac leak, but hard to find for the tech b/c it is internal...

A scope is nice for these jobs, but for you there are some elimination things you may want to try...just for kicks
If the sensor is found bad , just change it [ prob a good idea if it is aged , anyway..but I don't change anything til I have some sort of test/diagnosis.]
Clear the codes you have ..and try it out.
Now, if the sticking egr is suspect [ these are hard to find bc they are intermittent], you can disconnect the egr feed vac hose and plug it [ I use a BB in the line].. now you run the car and wait for the egr code to return, as it will..only this time, it will come back for not opening instead of sticking open..Now, if it comes back WITHOUT the 02 sensor limit code/codes. you can see that it is probable that the egr sticking open was the cause of the lean 02 sensor codes..
That will get you started............
True diagnosis requires better equipment, but these are little things that help the diyer get some benefit form the flash codes, and sometimes lead to solve the problem.
Limit codes usually require adaptation info, so that is where the equipment comes in...

New EGR in my future?
 

Arthur,

I have preformed the tests as described. The results are as follows (this is assuming the 3-wire plug :black, brown and green, on the harness side is the correct plug, there is also a heavier guage green wire that I assumed to be the heater circuit). The green seemed to stay about 12.7 to 13.5v and the brown seemed to be a ground (-). So, I assumed the black to be the signal lead which was .07 to .08v under all circumstances of the fuel pressure reg. disconnect (with vac line plugged) as well as the created vac leak of a disconnected SOVs. So, I am now assuming the engine has a lean condition created by a stuck EGR? I think I'm on the right track here but let me know if you think I am backwards? Thanks again for the help thus far.

Dan

OK.. let try again..
Forget the harness side colors , we want the 02 sensors side ..
So, from the SENSOR , the 2 white wires are heater.. look for 12v feed and heater ohms ...unplug for ohms test only.
The other wire in the 3 prong is gy. That is - 02 sens.. Now , the large green , single wire connector is the 02 sensor SIG . This will turn in to a BLK wire at the single green wire plug on the sens side.
so, on the 02 side.. 2 white are heater, ..blk is 02 sig +, gy is 02 sens -.
That is where you want the DMM sensor reading when you create the lean/rich condition manually at the engine ..
THE sensor GREEN WIRE must be unplugged at the single connector or the 02 sig will get back to the ECU and the ECU will try to CORRECT ...
We do not want ANY correction as we are testing the 02 sens all by itself, as if it were not even in the car . If it does not respond to your created conditions . it is no good.. This is only a 02 sens test. We are only using the engine to send a rich/lean sig of our chosing down the pipe to see if the 02 responds to our creating the "out of wack " a/f mixes...
Note ***
The other 3 prong connector has to remain hooked up b/c we need the heater part of the 02 to be active in order to get the 02 sensor in operating temp range ...so, only unplug the big/single/green connector for this type of test..

Need O2 sensor and a Cat Converter as well?
 

Well, I finally have determined the O2 sensor is bad. I get voltage readings of approx. .03v under all circumstances (rich and lean created mixtures). The question I have now is; After I replace the sensor and I suspect the Cat Converter is clogged partially, will this damage the new sensor by not replacing the cat immediately. Also, if I replace the cat are there any known problems associated with using the "Universal" replacement cat welded in place versus the bolt on OEM replacement. From what I've read searching previous posts, only OBDII cars have problems taking a non OEM cat due to added sensors. I also have considered cutting out the cat altogether since I have the car registered in a non-emission required county. Finally I would like to add that I suspect the cat because, 1. I think it is what is triggering my EGR fault code and 2. My sluggish acceleration could be caused by a clogged cat.
I think my logic works but any ideas are greatly appreciated.