Help! 95 E320 no/ASR still hesitates $2000 later
 

I have preformed the wiring harness replacement that was desperately needed and have replaced the throttle actuator with some improvement to my problems. But the main symptoms persist listed below. Check engine light on.

Flash codes: LED gives 2, 3, 17, then repeats. Cruise Control inoperative.

Problem: while key is in "ON" position, not started, throttle actuator clicks violently and erratically, also a rapid "relay click" is noticible inside cabin in passenger side dash near kick panel. The relay click inside is also constantly clicking while driving. The idle is high, around 1000-1100. During HARD acceleration the car has a hesitation, sometimes jerking. Please, someone have a holy grail answer for me?

I sent you an email last time you posted in regards to getting the codes stored in the EA/CC module, but did not get a reply, so I left it there .
Are you familiar with getting these codes ?

The EA control unit possibly hasn't relearned the closed throttle position stop yet, especially if you did the work yourself. Sometimes you can hear that some models seem to do this themselves (try putting the key to "on" and waiting a minute or two, you will hear the throttle motor running itself back and forth, like a soft buzzing noise). Other models may need a shop computer to put the EA into the "learn closed throttle position stop" mode.

Gilly

Arthur,
Ummm did not see the e-mail. The procedure I used was to turn the key to "ON" and then depress button next to the LED on the diagnostic terminal for three seconds and release. Flashes 2 times. Repeat the 3 sec. depression with release. Then 3 flashes. Repeat button depression. Then 17 flashes. Do it again and the codes start over again.

From an on-line source my codes are but are for a cabriolet in the same year

code 2 = heated O2 sensor inoperative
code 3 = Lambda control inoperative
code 17 = CAN data exchange-malfunction between control units

could be bad info?

Gilly the noises I hear are much louder than what I would consider a "soft buzz" It is a predominant "click" that is rapid and erratic that is happening inside the throttle actuator. And the relay clicking sound in the cabin

I'm not talking about the noises you are hearing. I am saying you should turn your key to ON (all lights on the instrument panel will be on), then wait a couple minutes. If the EA will relearn the throttle stop by itself you will hear this soft buzzing I am talking about, which is the throttle motor "sweeping" the throttle plate. If you don't hear this noise, it will need to be put on a computer to "force" the EA control module to do this. Did you do the work yourself?

Gilly

Yes I did do the work myself. So, does MB only have the equipment to force this or can independent MBers do it also?

The codes you got from the led/sw combo are from the diagnostic module
that monitors emissions related codes and alerts the operator via the CE lamp that fault/s have been detected and stored.
On that same diagnostic box, you will notice there are other pins. These are there to access other specific modules for code faults.
It is advisable to get these codes to help determine what the computer has detected in each system. This can be done by a DIYer by making a simple led/sw tool [simular to the built-in one you used]. With this tool, you want to go to both pins 14 and pin 8.
14 will tell you if the EA /CC module has detected a system specific fault and identify it, and 8 will do the same for engine HFM management.
This , along with the DM codes you have , gives one more info to help make a diagnosis.
The retrival procedure w/tool is the same as you used on the DM one...
If you get a Single flash , there are NO codes stored on that module...
You want as much info as you can get before changing parts....

Here is a tool pictoral that ,if you are handy and have a Radio Shack near by, will allow you to go get this info.
This tool will also allow clearing of the memory of these modules to get them back to mean, as Gilly has posted.
http://members.aol.com/ajdalton7/ledtool.jpg

Thanks a ton Arthur. Comencing tool construction immediately. In your opinion with these symptoms would the car be ok to drive to work 15mi. one more day?

No idea

PS
If you do get the tool constructed , the hook-up is :
Red bananna [+ ] goes to pin #16 [ 12v power]
Blk Bananna [-] goes to pin #1 [ ground]
Odd colored bananna goes to which ever pin #/module you are extracting codes from [ in your case , pin #14 for EA/CC and #8 for HFM.......]
When you get these , post your findings and I or someone else will tell you what these codes signify/ indicate

I don't think Arthurs tool will allow any access to do "activations", which is the field you need to be in to have the closed throttle position stop "learned".
I believe that higher quality scanners will allow them to access this. If you have an indy in mind, just call and ask them, they should be familiar with this process.

Gilly

PS I am not sure if there would be a code stored for this, I agree that if you can retreive trouble codes that this would be a good start.

Further knowledge gained
 

To Arthur or anyone else with the codes handy.

I have built the tester and it works wonderfully. (An Altoids Mint can works great as a housing also). Anyway, When connecting to pin#14 I cannot receive any code. However, the LED flashes in sync with my described actuator clicking. Also after connecting to pin#8 I get the following additional codes from the tool. 4, 9, 13, 42. Now is there a good diagnosis that can be made? The only other symptom I can give is that I get a small amount of "rotten egg" smell indicating a catalytic converter to this shade tree mechanic. Any Ideas?

Unique messages from HAL (my new car nickname) have been recieved
 

I tried clearing the codes. After 1-2min of running, check engine light on again, on pin#8 code 4, 13, 42 start again. However after sitting with key "ON" for extended periods (not running) throttle actuator clicking takes 20-30 second breaks in between clicks. Now for the intriguing part. During these "breaks" if you will, codes can be obtained from pin#14. I am not sure if I have retrieved all of the codes yet but so far from pin#14, I get code 2 and 9 (still iffy on the nine because of another "click" happened shortly afterward thus having to start reading over again during the next break). This spurs me to think of a sick and dying ECU, only able to sputter codes in between malfunction) or maybe I am putting to much sci-fi thought into this?

P.S. during the click breaks, the throttle actuator humms slightly as gilly describes.

Pin 8
Code 4 (Hot Film MAF sensor air flow implausibly low/open circuit)
Code 9 (O2 sensor voltage too high/implausible/cold or open circuit)
Code 13 (O2 system operating at rich limit or lean limit)
Code 44 (CAN commucnication from EA/CC/ISC control module defective/CAN communication from diagnostic module defective)

Pin 14 ASR
Code 2
Code 9 (Hall effect speed sensor)

Pin 14 Without ASR
Code 2
Code 9 (Rear axle VSS sensor/Incorrect CC/ISC control module installed/ETS Signal)

Appears that you may have Incorrect CC/ISC control module installed if your car is without ASR.

I was getting Pin 8 Codes (13 & 20), DM Codes (3,4 & 19), Pin 14 Codes 7 & 14. (With ASR)

Replacing the Engine Control Module took care of all the codes and the check engine light. I did not have any drivability problems at all, just did not like the check engine light on.

Arthur Dalton will be able to point you in the right direction, he is the expert on these systems and is very helpful.

Cabin click isolated
 

The "relay clicking" sound coming from the cabin has been isolated to the VDO module that is under the passenger side floor mat. Since this "clicking" is in sync with the flashing from my tool on pin #14. I am thinking this is my culprit. Does fastlane sell these? If so, is that the part name?