I have preformed the wiring harness replacement that was desperately needed and have replaced the throttle actuator with some improvement to my problems. But the main symptoms persist listed below. Check engine light on.

Flash codes: LED gives 2, 3, 17, then repeats. Cruise Control inoperative.

Problem: while key is in "ON" position, not started, throttle actuator clicks violently and erratically, also a rapid "relay click" is noticible inside cabin in passenger side dash near kick panel. The relay click inside is also constantly clicking while driving. The idle is high, around 1000-1100. During HARD acceleration the car has a hesitation, sometimes jerking. Please, someone have a holy grail answer for me?

I sent you an email last time you posted in regards to getting the codes stored in the EA/CC module, but did not get a reply, so I left it there .
Are you familiar with getting these codes ?

The EA control unit possibly hasn't relearned the closed throttle position stop yet, especially if you did the work yourself. Sometimes you can hear that some models seem to do this themselves (try putting the key to "on" and waiting a minute or two, you will hear the throttle motor running itself back and forth, like a soft buzzing noise). Other models may need a shop computer to put the EA into the "learn closed throttle position stop" mode.

Gilly

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Arthur,
Ummm did not see the e-mail. The procedure I used was to turn the key to "ON" and then depress button next to the LED on the diagnostic terminal for three seconds and release. Flashes 2 times. Repeat the 3 sec. depression with release. Then 3 flashes. Repeat button depression. Then 17 flashes. Do it again and the codes start over again.

From an on-line source my codes are but are for a cabriolet in the same year

code 2 = heated O2 sensor inoperative
code 3 = Lambda control inoperative
code 17 = CAN data exchange-malfunction between control units

could be bad info?

Gilly the noises I hear are much louder than what I would consider a "soft buzz" It is a predominant "click" that is rapid and erratic that is happening inside the throttle actuator. And the relay clicking sound in the cabin

I'm not talking about the noises you are hearing. I am saying you should turn your key to ON (all lights on the instrument panel will be on), then wait a couple minutes. If the EA will relearn the throttle stop by itself you will hear this soft buzzing I am talking about, which is the throttle motor "sweeping" the throttle plate. If you don't hear this noise, it will need to be put on a computer to "force" the EA control module to do this. Did you do the work yourself?

Gilly

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Yes I did do the work myself. So, does MB only have the equipment to force this or can independent MBers do it also?

The codes you got from the led/sw combo are from the diagnostic module
that monitors emissions related codes and alerts the operator via the CE lamp that fault/s have been detected and stored.
On that same diagnostic box, you will notice there are other pins. These are there to access other specific modules for code faults.
It is advisable to get these codes to help determine what the computer has detected in each system. This can be done by a DIYer by making a simple led/sw tool [simular to the built-in one you used]. With this tool, you want to go to both pins 14 and pin 8.
14 will tell you if the EA /CC module has detected a system specific fault and identify it, and 8 will do the same for engine HFM management.
This , along with the DM codes you have , gives one more info to help make a diagnosis.
The retrival procedure w/tool is the same as you used on the DM one...
If you get a Single flash , there are NO codes stored on that module...
You want as much info as you can get before changing parts....

Here is a tool pictoral that ,if you are handy and have a Radio Shack near by, will allow you to go get this info.
This tool will also allow clearing of the memory of these modules to get them back to mean, as Gilly has posted.
http://members.aol.com/ajdalton7/ledtool.jpg

Thanks a ton Arthur. Comencing tool construction immediately. In your opinion with these symptoms would the car be ok to drive to work 15mi. one more day?

No idea

See my post about a possible fried ECU:

misfiring, rough idle, poor mpg, undriveable!