Yesterday I purchased 2 auto trans shift linkage bushings from the local MB dealer for my 94 E320. Don't have the old ones out so I can't compare to new, but the new bushings look like the flared ends of 2 trumpet horns facing each other seperated by a short spacer. Are these the correct bushings?

regards,

Mark

Yes. MB has used those for nearly 40 years, all the same up to the latest models where they are smaller for some reason.

A real bear to get in -- I remove the lever from the transmission as there is usually no room to get tools in anyway, and you might want to make a puller for the shift lever end from some washers, a small bolt (the bushing must compress some going in) and a spacer.

For the tranny lever, remove the clamp bolt after unclipping the control rod. Note which hole the rod goes in, there are several, pull the lever off the tranny, and use a socket and a vise to press the bushing it. Usually have to 'presuade' it some with a pair of needle nose pliers, too. Re-install. Clip on rod can be a pain, you need to push the rod through the bushing while forcing the clip on, and there is no room, of course...

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Thanks, have never seen a bushing shaped like these, so it's good to hear that the counter man picked the correct ones.
regards,
Mark

The bushing locks into the levers in the slot between the "horns". Difficult to get in, but they never come out unless they fall apart.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

I applied a coat of silicone grease to the outer tapered part of the bushing and the seating area of the hole in the shift lever and pressed it in with a vise and it went in pretty easily.

__________________
1986 300E (3/2002) Rear ended and totaled (10/2009)
2000 Xterra (5/2000)
1992 400E (11/2009) -Sold
1986 300E (12/2009) - Sold
2004 E500 Wagon (6/2013) - Sold

Yeah that one's easy. Somehow I've never managed to learn how to get the whole car over the vice to do the one on the shift lever!

Spent half an hour on the last one and gave up, not enough room under there to get my old arthritic arms up into the drive tunnel while lying on a cold concrete floor. I could get one side in, but it would always "escape" while I tried to move the pliers around.

I'm gonna make a puller this week and do the one on the TE while I'm replacing torque links.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

The last set I did I cut one side. This enables one side to curl inside the other and can easily be fed into the hole.

Yes I know, probably not the best way but so far I can't notice any wear difference. For the ease of replacement doing it this way, I would do it again the same way.

Haasman

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'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)

Well. What I meant was I removed the piece onto which the bushings are pressed into and then installed the bushings.

Unlike what psfred thinks, there is no need to get the whole car onto the vise.

__________________
1986 300E (3/2002) Rear ended and totaled (10/2009)
2000 Xterra (5/2000)
1992 400E (11/2009) -Sold
1986 300E (12/2009) - Sold
2004 E500 Wagon (6/2013) - Sold

I made a small tool out of few washers, nut & bolt, and a home water pipe nut to press in the bushings. Took me about 5 minutes to install the second one that's tucked above the exhaust line include the time to crawl in & out - no cuts/slits ( but that's after a few hours trying to use a vise grips, pliers... *doh*)

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'86 560SEL | Silver Ext. / Blue Int. | 201K miles (Apr. 05) | 204K miles (Feb. 06)

MB sez to put them in boiling water for a few minutes, then fish them out of the water using a needle nose, then when it's just cool enough so you can handle them, put them in, they'll be pliable enough to slip into the hole easily.

Gilly

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OK, for the uninitiated (me), what do these bushings do and why do you have to replace them? (I think mine were replaced right before I bought the car but I don't what they are)

Thanks,

Mike

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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra

Mike,

My shifter was very loose when I bought it; and it squeaked on street bumps, especially over train tracks (took me a while to find out - thought it was the suspension). As I found out - the front bushing was broken, hard as a rock but still in place - and the rear one is GONE (found one of the bits on the chasis). Replacing them brings back the tight shifter feel of a new car (or very close to one).

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'86 560SEL | Silver Ext. / Blue Int. | 201K miles (Apr. 05) | 204K miles (Feb. 06)