Hi guys:

Apparently, my water pump is leaking as I am getting droplets on my power steering belt while the motor is running/and or stopped hot. I went to look at how to replace this beast but I would rather some advice before digging in.

It seemed to me that I needed to remove the fan/clutch system before removing the pump. The fan has one bolt in the center, but if I try to unscrew that the alternator belt cannot hold the clutch assembly steady for me to unscrew the bolt. Is there an easy way to do this?

After I take off the fan, am I going to see screws to remove the clutch unit and then after that expose screws for the pump? If you can tell me some details that will be great.

Thanks guys!

-=>Raja.

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1983 MB 190E, bought from Germany and shipped to the US in 1986.

Any hints guys, I need to work on this tonight as my car is "grounded".

Thanks,

-=>Raja.

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1983 MB 190E, bought from Germany and shipped to the US in 1986.

Do you have an Autozone nearby? Get a Haynes manual... under $20 and money well-spent for a DIY'er! I just bought one Saturday night. In a pinch, PM me and I will try to answer your question by looking at my Haynes after I get home tonight.

Chris

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1992 300D 2.5T
1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold)
1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy"
1974 Triumph TR6
1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's)

If the water pump is similar to the M103, this is what you need to do:

Remove fan and clutch -- 8mm Allen, use some coat hanger wire to lock the fan clutch to unscrew the bolt (I don't know if the clutch on the 190 is the same, it's electric...).

once you get the fan off, remove it and the shroud. Remove the bolts that hold the water pump pulley and PS pulley, three each.

Release the tension on the belt by loosening the 19mm bolt in the center of the tensioner BEFORE you attempt to "unscrew" the tensioner sticking up beside the water pump -- if not, you will break the cam on the tensioner, big bummer.

Unscrew tension while watching the pointer on the main bolt. If it doesn't move back to the start of the "ramp" mark on the housing when the belt is loose, you need to replace the tensioner (assuming it's the same as the M103).

Remove belt. Loosen heater core pipe retainer nut and pull pip back. Don't remove it, it's slotted.

Water pump is held on with four bolts, two hex head, two allen. Note where they go. You may need a univeral joint extension to get two of them out.

Clean head surface, install new WP and large o-ring. No sealant, it goes on dry.

I'm not sure of the differences, you may not need to remove the tensioner (I did, because it was shot and I had to replace it). Less room on hte M103, too, I think.

Took me 6 hours exactly, hopefully less for you.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

I got the fan off by removing the center bolt. Behind that was 4 socket bolts that hold the fan pulley onto the water pump. They seemed to be 5mm socket bolts, but I couldn't get any of them out. As I try to turn the allen key/wrench, it wants to strip out. I looked at them in the mirror and they seemed to be allen to me, but I read here that they might be torx. I went to Autozone, bought the torx set, tried a #30 and it fits in there, but when you try to turn it, it rounds out and the screws won't budge.

I don't mind doing my own work, but I am frustrated that I can't take 4 bolts out. Their heads are so short that are hard to grab with vise grips. I put the fan back on for now and I was thinking to call the dealer to see what it costs to get this job done. I was hoping to pay $110 for the pump and do it myself, now I might be looking at $500 for the dealer to do it for me.

Short of taking a torch and trying to heat the bolts and not knowing if it is going to work or cause damage to the fan clutch, I'm sort of out of ideas.

If you guys have any DIY's saving tricks, please let me know, otherwise I guess I'm at the mercy to the repair shop...

-=>Raja.

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1983 MB 190E, bought from Germany and shipped to the US in 1986.

Is the fan on the water pump on the 190e with an M102? I'd have though that was just a bearing, it is on the M103. Water pump is above the PS on the left side on the M103, the fan just runs on a bearing, not the water pump!

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Those screws are a royal pain in the butt to remove. I had to use a piece of wood to apply pressure to the Bit and then use an open end wrench to turn it. While applying pressure to the bit to push it in to the bolt head. One I rounded way to much so I had to cut a slot in it to use a flat head to remove. Next you need to remove the bolts on the back of the clutch, the pulley covers the clutch. Next remove the alternator bracket middle botls and the top bolt of the alternator. Loosen the bottom and the braket and alternator will move out of the way. It is easier to remove the whole alternator bracket but can be done with it still in there. Then unbolt the pump and remove. Then reverse to re-install. Whole job took me about an hour and a half total if I would have had the right tools at first. Took me longer because I had to take it all apart pulley wise because I thought the pump was making noise when it was actually a small hose clamp on the bottom of the pump rubbing the pulley.

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~Jamie
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2003 Pewter C230K SC C1, C4, C5, C7, heated seats, CD Changer, and 6 Speed. ContiExtremes on the C7's.

1986 190E 2.3 Black, Auto, Mods to come soon.....